Arca Swiss heads - lack of QC ?

[Dan_4341]

I owned/tried-out a variety of Arca Swiss heads over the years (B1, B2, B1g). After a dry spell (using a 3-way) I decided to go back to the Arca (for both small and large format cameras), and a tried two B1s, one B1G, and a B2, one from Adorama and the others from B&H, in November - early December 2004.

I returned all of them because, although the main ball was smooth, neither panning control really locked tight. I.e. although I locked the panning knob tight, I could easily turn the camera/head combo in panning motion. While this is not that important for 35mm perhaps, it is for large format (as when inserting a film holder I don't want the camera to move). I did not have this problem with the several Arca heads I used years before.

I heard that about 3 years ago or so, Arca was having a big problem with quality control (more than, or other than, just the panning lock), but that they improved in the last couple of years. Has anyone else had similar problems to mine recently ? Maybe I was just very unlucky, or maybe those two companies are getting seconds?

Thank you.

[George Stewart]

I have a 2003 B2 as well as a 2004 Cube and I find that both are very good. I wish the B2 were a little lighter though.

[Tom Westbrook]

I tried a B2 at a local camera shop and found the smaller (upper) lock knob was impossible to lock down to the same extent as the lower, bigger knob--seemed a flaw in design to me. I didn't spend much time fiddling with it and it might be that under normal working conditions it wouldn't really be an issue. I was a little disturbed, though, that for such an expensive tripod head that tightening the upper lock-down was so difficult. I didn't buy it and opted for a Bogen 410 geared head instead--$160 vs. $650.

I own an older B1 (black index knob) and always have to remember the crank down the panning knob pretty tight. It's made a bit harder by the tiny size of the knob. I think if they made the knob easier to get a good grip on the issue would be less a problem.

[tim atherton]

this seems to be the earlier problem - maybe a few old stock?


http://www.precisioncameraworks.com/Pages/monoball_core.html :

Faulty Lower Calottes: Around the end of 2001, a batch of faulty parts found their way into the production process. We also received a batch as replacement parts and unknowingly installed them in a number of Monoballs. This part is called the “lower calotte.” If your Monoball has one of these parts, it may exhibit “sticky action” as stated above; or it may seem fine under normal use but start sticking only in cold or humid environments. Cleaning will not alleviate this problem. Only we can confirm whether your Monoball is equipped with a faulty part. We are sure that most of these faulty parts have already been replaced but there may be a few still out there. If we determine that your Monoball is equipped with one of these faulty parts, our repair is free of charge.


http://www.rpphoto.com/howto/arcaswissrepair/default.htm :

Owner Bob Watkins explained to me that the problems in my participants' new ballheads were likely due to some recent material problems (since solved) at a new Arca Swiss manufacturing facility in France. These problems are covered under warranty and repairs are free. If you've recently purchased an Arca Swiss Monoball and find that it's quite stiff out of the box, be sure to contact them.

[Emmanuel BIGLER]

I'm using an A/S B1 ; it is a recent 2003 model. I have no problem with locking the panning screw tightly. I also have a traditional 3-way Gitzo "rationnelle" head. Both devices have their advantages and inconvenients, I like them both so I use both ! Now that I'm used to the B1, I find it much faster to setup for a view camera than the rationelle. While posting this message I just double-checked my B1 ; my advice woud be : do not hesitate to tighten the locking screw of the base panning movement really strongly when the ballhead is new. I use my B1 with an A/S 6x9 F-line camera which is quite compact, though. But one of my LF photographer friends uses an A/S B1 routinely with a 8"x10" camera : never heard him complain about the panning screw.

[Dan_4341]

Thanks to everyone for their replies! Tim's posting re Precision Camera Works - I've bookmarked that link for future referral as well. Tom's posting re the B2 - actually I also found that the top knob wasn't sufficient to lock that particular direction as much as I would think it should (although for practical purposes I agree that it probably isn't important). I could put my hands on the clamp and move the head in that one direction. So, the reputed 150lbs of force rating must only apply to the main ball (which I believe fully, as I couldn't budge it at all).

I do wonder if the ones I got were old stock. The condition at least two of them arrived in (scratches, smudges, etc.) makes me suspicious that they've be bought by other customers before, found to be not up to snuff and returned. The stores then just keep sending them out hoping someone will find them ok and keep them. Mail order shipping gets to be expensive so I'm not inclined to try again for awhile.

Right now, for my 8x10 I'm using a Bogen 3039 with a Wimberly C10 Arca clamp tightly fitted to the Bogen hex plate (a Wimberley P40 plate is on my camera). It's heavy at 4.5 lbs and clunky, with movements not remotely as smooth as the Arca, but at least when I tighten the knobs there's no doubt about it holding and I don't have to worry about treating the head gently. For 35mm I'm using an old Canon ball head. I would prefer the Arca if I could get one that functions perfectly, but I think it's just not in the cards for the foreseable future.

[Ellis Vener]

I tried a B2 at a local camera shop and found the smaller (upper) lock knob was impossible to lock down to the same extent as the lower, bigger knob

Tom, you adjust the tension on the lateral tilt control (the smaller upper knob) with the knurled collar around the ball itself.

[Tom Westbrook]

I assumed the collar was to adjust minimum tension. I'll go back and try it again.