Well give me a 2 month advance warning when you plan to have a housewarming party and maybe I'll make arrangements to come out to it, I could be your first couch crasherOriginally Posted by Kodachrome25
haha I can pay for food with frozen rolls of Kodachrome25 too!
I'm absolutely loving this format!
Duplicate post
Last edited by StoneNYC; 2-Aug-2013 at 21:49. Reason: Duplicate post oops
would anyone reading this be interested in Rollei IR 400 in 8x10 if they would do a short run and how much would you pay per sheet
not more than $7
OK, now I'm interested in graphic arts IR film. I dug out a Photo Warehouse catalog from last year and noticed they have a couple of different types. They have IR infrared image setting film and Ultrafine GIR infrared film. The latter is much less expensive. Any idea if it would be usable? Also, what filter do you expose through? How long are your exposures? I have used ortho litho film and have a low contrast developer that works well with it.
Thanks in advance.
There is one type of IR film that is double-sided like X-ray, I believe that is the cheaper version and I would stay away from it. The standard Konica one I use is single-sided with a very good anti-halation coating on the reverse, with a thinner base than any other film I've used but if you cut it in the right direction with the curl, it stays very flat in the film holders except for a 1/8" - 1/4" edge on either end that curls up. If it is cut short and this curl does not hook under the lip at the top of the film holder (under the light trap), you risk catching the edge of the film when you re-insert the dark slide, and you will ruin the sheet unless you carry your whole camera into a darkroom where you can open the camera to save it.
I shoot with IR 750 and 820 (?) filters. The film is sensitive from around 550-600nm right up through 1000nm-1100nm, so a higher IR range than most photographic IR films. However, it is not a twin emulsion film like conventional photographic IR, which is a normal-sensitivity film with a 2nd IR emulsion. This means it can be manipulated with a blue or deep green safelight, and you can get an IR effect with no filter at all.
I use it with my IR 820 filter because I have a step-up ring that allows me to mount the same filter on my Pentax V spotmeter. The film's sensitivity matches the IR response of the meter, once I started metering properly I've had much less trouble with exposure. I meter through the filter and use a base value of 3 ASA, though I bracket and shoot a 2nd sheet at 1 ASA. That means in deep woods, at f16 or f22, I have exposures of 3 to 15 minutes, with no correction necessary for reciprocity failure. In bright sunlight I can get as fast as 1/2s if I open up the lens a little. This suits me fine because I use it with all my old barrel lenses, I can get a manageable exposure without having to use a 'Galli shutter'. The other advantage I've noticed with this IR film is that I have never had any observable flare, with any lens and filter combination. I guess IR wavelengths don't bounce around inside a lens as easily as visible light; so no issues either with cheap ($13 for 77mm!) IR filters from China.
Very interesting Jody. Do you know the make of the K.M. film?
I see some on ebay right now for reasonable prices (VR-100E for $72 for 23.98" x 200', or $0.18 a shot (shipped!) on my 12x20).
Many thanks for the info. I will be looking into this.
No, I don't know any other makers, though when I looked I saw a lot of names (rebrandings?) that were unfamiliar. On a 12x20, you might need to tape the edges in place to get it to stay flat. But yes, I've seen it in very wide rolls (up to 48"), and I wondered why more ULF shooters weren't using it.
The VR-100E is Konica Minolta made. Here's the datasheet - does it look similar to what you're using? http://image2output.com/media/pdf/hn_film.pdf
Thanks!
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