You do need a machine to use Jobo drums. You can get a manual roller base (#1509) or a motorized besseler (or other) roller (for cheap too...) OR you can just roll on a flat surface, or invert/stand as you would with any other tank.
You do need a machine to use Jobo drums. You can get a manual roller base (#1509) or a motorized besseler (or other) roller (for cheap too...) OR you can just roll on a flat surface, or invert/stand as you would with any other tank.
idea.....the Jobo tanks talked about above and BTZS tubes work perfectly, can be used in tiny spaces-look for some used.
Thanks,
Kirk
at age 73:
"The woods are lovely, dark and deep,
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep"
Has anyone researched the newer and improved Mk27 version of the MOD54 apparently, they addressed many of the issues inherent in earlier versions with uneven development, loading filmsheets etc.
I have one of the original MOD54's as well as two of the new Mk27's. The Mk27's apparently are manufactured with assistance from Ilford and are very nice.
The new design eases all corners but changes the film holder notches to be a "wing" that extends out from the center. As such, rotary agitation is a no-go. You *have* to use inversion agitation. Using rotary agitation appears to create a vortex near the film contact points that will give extra development in that area (i.e. you'll see two 'stripes' of overdevelopment) if you mistakenly use rotary agitation (i.e. the 'swizzle stick'). Morgan makes this fairly clear on his website. You must use inversion agitation. With the Mk27's I have no problems with loading or uneven development.
For loading, the key is practice, practice, practice. Do it in the daylight until you can do it with your eyes closed and then do it with your eyes closed some more. Learn to feel the sheet separation of properly loaded sheets and be able to tell when multiple sheets are loaded in the same slot. Practice unloading sheets in the dark so that you can back out a misload, retry and continue.
For those set against the MOD54, why don't you simply use the "Taco Method" in the Paterson 3-reel tank? It works but you can only process 4 sheets at a time vs. 6 with the MOD54.
Thanks for all the input guys. I'll look into the 2509 reel and tank. I believe it is the Mk27 version of ht mod54 I have, I use inversion agitaion, but I also "twist" it every time I invert it. Get even development, but scratches.
Hi Saus,Originally Posted by Saus
If you've got a MOD54 that is made from a bunch of flat translucent pieces glued together, you've got an old one. If your MOD54 is opaque and made from four cast sections stacked together, you've got a Mk27.
What kind of film are you using where you're getting scratches? The one thing that people I've talked to have in common with me who are getting success with the MOD54 is that they're using Ilford film. Ilford B&W film appears to have a thicker base material (making it stiffer and less likely to dislodge under heavy agitation) and also has a pre-hardened emulsion making it more resilient against scratches. I've haven't had any scratches on a hundred or so sheets of FP4+ or HP5+ run through my Mk27's. If you're using a non pre-hardened emulsion like Foma, I can envision that you might be more susceptible to scratches although I've never tried that film myself.
I have the Mk27, and I have been using HP5+ and Delta 100. I got less scratches on the Delta 100, but that was after I modified the holder. I noticed there was a 3mm gap between the film and the holder at the top/bottom (floor/ceiling). I glued a Q-tip (without the pads) to the bottom, so that the film rested on those instead. This made the gap a lot smaller, but it was still there and I still got small scratches.
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