Anyone try this?
Hard to believe.
Anyone try this?
Hard to believe.
You just don't know where to look.
http://trichromie.free.fr/trichromie/index.php?
"Great things are accomplished by talented people who believe they will
accomplish them."
Warren G. Bennis
www.gbphotoworks.com
There is a previous and rather extensive thread on the subject in this forum.
Trichrome, or three-color photography, has a very long history, going back to the first color print on paper by Louis Ducos Du Hauron, who used a form of the tri-color carbon process. One of the seminal works on the subject, E. J. Wall's History of Three-Colour Photography, a tome of some 750 pages, was published as early as 1925.
Three-color photography is widely practiced today by alternative printers with gum, casein and other processes.
With a set of color separation filters, usually #25 Red, #58 Green, and #47 Blue, one can make excellent color separation negatives on many panchromatic films. Scanning the negatives and combining the color layers in Photoshop can give results better than making color negatives or transparencies. I posted a brief description of this process some years ago on this forum. There may be a faster way to do this in PS, but it worked for me. File is attached.
Sandy
For discussion and information about carbon transfer please visit the carbon group at groups.io
[url]https://groups.io/g/carbon
My pal Steve has recently made this using a digital monochrome camera
http://www.flickr.com/photos/steve_barnett/9252184660/
In the comments there is an explanation of the process.
RR
Some of the first studio digital systems were tricolor, namely the Sinar Epolux, which used a rotating three filter turret in front of the lens. Parts of the system might
be useful to someone experimenting today, since they practically garbage otherwise. The old Technicolor beamsplitter concept was more elegant, but obviously
horrendously cumbersome. Those cine cameras still exist, stored somewhere in China along with all the film dyes. For studio still life work, one could simply use a
solid stat camera with a pin-registered vac back, along with three primary sep filters. I've seen a lot of old dye transfer work done this way. Prior to this, tricolor
shots were used for lantern slides, using three aligned carbon arc projectors. Not long ago I saw a number of 5x7 tricolor negs of Hollywood celebs from the 30's
thru early 50's, presumably for carbro prints. Unfortunately they were on acetate film base so no longer in register. But via scanning and PS realignment, once again it is possible to print them. Some of those old Devin and Curtis tricolor cameras come up for sale from time to time, for someone who wants a reburbishing
challenge, to say the least.
I understand this can be printed with gum bichomate too. Can't find anything.
Absolutely. There are many alternative printers who do three-color gum, and three-color with other colloids. And some do three color combining gum and cyanotype. See, for example, this article by my friend Sam Wang. http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/3CG/3cg.html
A similar article is in Barnier's Coming into Focus.
Chris Anderson, a student of Sam and author of a new book on alternative printing processes, is a master of three-color printing with gum and cassein. http://www.christinazanderson.com/
Sandy
For discussion and information about carbon transfer please visit the carbon group at groups.io
[url]https://groups.io/g/carbon
All kinds of these processes, including gum, can either transpire via color separations made from color film, or separations directly from the scene or subject in front
of the camera by means of three (or more) successive exposures using black and white film. The advantage of the latter approach is the greater linearity of black
and white film, and potentially greater color accuracy. The disadvantage is that nothing can move during the whole process. Tricolor cameras which instantly split
the image via beamsplitters or pellicles solve this problem, but have issues of their own. Since the blue tricolor filter is generally quite a bit more dense than the red
and green, a nice way of doing it nowadays is to use TMY400 for the blue separation, and TMX100 for the red and green.
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