Wooden or leather portfolio case

**Tin Can** · 3-Jul-2013, 22:55

What I meant was what kind of wood finish, a lacquer, or wax, or oil or? Thinking about outgassing.

Originally Posted by Tri Tran

Thanks Randy, they are all wood finished inside out.

**Jim Andrada** · 7-Jul-2013, 19:01

If it were me I wouldn't use ANY finish - they all outgas to some degree. But then again, so does the wood (or there wouldn't be any odor to it.) We once upon a time had two Great Danes (total 415 pounds) and they used to get under the dining table and "outgas" like mad. Didn't seem to peel my photos off their mounts though.

The cases look really nice though.

**Tri Tran** · 8-Jul-2013, 07:07

These are birch wood stained cherry and finished with clear coat . I'm not a wood worker so I don't know exactly the process but the finish looks just like my Brazilian Cherry Hardwood floor .

**Tin Can** · 8-Jul-2013, 09:05

Thanks Tri Tran!

Originally Posted by Tri Tran

These are birch wood stained cherry and finished with clear coat . I'm not a wood worker so I don't know exactly the process but the finish looks just like my Brazilian Cherry Hardwood floor .

**Tri Tran** · 8-Jul-2013, 09:16

Originally Posted by Randy Moe

Thanks Tri Tran!

You are so welcome!

**Nasser** · 21-Aug-2013, 01:12

Thank you all for the big help! Nice case Tri!

**Drew Wiley** · 22-Aug-2013, 12:34

Museum solander cases are typically something like basswood, but internally overlaid with a thick acid-free white liner. You can get these with carrying handles too.
Making your own might be a fun project, but you do have to be aware of not only acid migration from the wood itself, but outgassing of finishes, outgassing of formaldehyde in the case of plywoods, and outgassing of natural resins, esp with tropical hardwoods. The best barrier coating would be a true shellac sealer (don't confuse shellac with varnish or lacquer). I use a pre-thinned version of this called Seal Coat. After that you have your choice of a tougher final finish, but if you go oil-based, you'll need literally months for it to truly outgas. Better to use an acrylic hybrid finish like Utra Zar Max. For the inside of the case you can cut white archival board with you matcutting machine, and again, want to be conscious to use an appropriate glue without either any sulphur or formaldehyde. Art conservation houses can supply all the speciality materials, or sometimes a really big art store.

**Flauvius** · 23-Aug-2013, 04:15

Tri, what is the name and address of the maker of your fine print storage cases?

Flauvius

**Drew Wiley** · 23-Aug-2013, 10:04

Yes... those cases are fairly attractive. I'd select a thin finish ply, maybe with an African maghog top ply, appropriately finished. I have all the equip to crank those
kind of things out, but no time. But makes me think, since I need a lot more cases myself. Don't want to go into detail, since I sell high-end woodworking equip and
don't want a conflict of interest. Another project for the retirement checklist... if I ever get to retire (yeah...from this job, but getting past the honey-do list is another topic)...

**Tri Tran** · 23-Aug-2013, 22:16

Originally Posted by Flauvius

Tri, what is the name and address of the maker of your fine print storage cases?

Flauvius

I'm so sorry that he no longer lives in the state. He's now in Argentina. His specialty was fine furniture and Cabinetry and that's what I hired him for our house and office remodel. These cases are the bonus that that he gave me for all the good business.