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Thread: Does anyone else's Chamonix do this?

  1. #11
    Yes, but why? David R Munson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Saitama, Japan
    Posts
    1,494

    Re: Does anyone else's Chamonix do this?

    Have you tried emailing Chamonix about this?

  2. #12

    Re: Does anyone else's Chamonix do this?

    Mine is fine but I would still like to be able to adjust it...

    Looks like Hugo needs to weigh in, none of my tools fit either and I have some pretty precise stuff....

    I guess if all else fails, pull the current ones out with a pair of needle nose pliers and then replace them with a known allen key sized screw so you can adjust them...

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Staten Island, NY
    Posts
    95

    Re: Does anyone else's Chamonix do this?

    I ended up returning the camera to the seller for a full refund. It was actually meant as a quick replacement to my original Chamonix which I recently knocked off the tripod and also ended up with some different alignment issues. I did speak to Hugo though, who suggested I should just send it to the factory to be looked at and repaired if necessary, which I will be doing shortly. Has anyone done this before? He said it'd be in the factory for 2 weeks, and EMS shipping times aren't too bad, so theoretically I could have it back in less than a month, but that's probably the absolute best-case scenario.

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Albuquerque, NM, USA
    Posts
    207

    Re: Does anyone else's Chamonix do this?

    As far as I see it, it's a very minute (see my calculations above) misalignment that I shouldn't really be worrying about, but like Kodachrome says, I would like to have the option of perfecting it, especially since there seems to be a very clear mechanism in place to do precisely that.

    I emailed Hugo the link to this thread. Hopefully he'll have the time to take a peek.

  5. #15

    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    1,817

    Re: Does anyone else's Chamonix do this?

    Like our 810 cameras, our 45 camera are designed with locking tabs to make the rear standard verticle. The locking tabs are at the bottom of the rear standard and when they are pushed out, the rear standard will stay verticle and when they are pushed in, rear standard can be tilted forward and backward.

    If you look carefully, you can see tiny screws on the locking tabs. They were tested carefully and should be accurate before leaving our factory and they are glued.

    There are two things that can be the cause of not verticle rear standard:

    1. The locking tabs are not pushed all the way out which will cause the locking tabs, not the screws, to stop the movement of the rear standard. These two parts are not in the same plane. This is a operation issue and can be easily resolved by pushing the tow locking tabs all the way to the end.

    2. With increased use and repeated knocking of locking tabs, the screws will gradually move and this will require adjustment. An Allen wrench of 0.9mm should be used. When first used, you should hear a small cracking sound as the dried glue cracks before the screw to turn. After adjustment, use a toothstick to put a little glue through the tiny hole at the back on the screw.

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Albuquerque, NM, USA
    Posts
    207

    Re: Does anyone else's Chamonix do this?

    Hi Hugo,

    Thanks for weighing in.

    Well there could be a few different causes. The only thing I know is that the two planes of the front standard and the rear standard seem not to be perpendicular to each other.

    This could be cause by:

    (1) The front standard is not perpendicular to the base plate
    (2) The rear standard is note perpendicular to the base plate
    (3) Both the front and rear standards are not perpendicular to the base plate, and are of by different margins.
    (4) One or more of the bubble levels that are used is not installed properly

    Of these, would you suggest that (2) is the most likely cause?

    I just did a thorough check and with mine it sure seems like (2) is the issue. the front standard agrees with the base plate more or less spot on. The rear standard needs to tilt forward a fraction of a degree to be perpendicular to the base plate (and hence parallel with the front standard.

    However, I must say, the 0.9mm hex key is not doing it for me. From the feeling i get, it seems to be just a tad smaller than it need to be to actually "catch" the grub nut.

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