Maintaining old folding leather viewing hoods advice wanted

[Tin Can]

It has occurred to me to use hand creme and Neutrogena is very good stuff. I am going to try it. It moistens skin, but then dries without greasy feelings.

That is a great suggestion!

I have a Teechnika III with original bellows, when I got it the bellows was so dry and all I had was Neutrogena's Norwegian Formula hand cream. Amazing results!

[Jason Greenberg Motamedi]

... Lexol is about as good, but contains water so be careful not to dissolve any glues.

I have had issues with Lexol dissolving glues, so be careful!

[John Kasaian]

100% neatsfoot oil (NOT compound)is good stuff, as is mink oil, and glycerin. It really depends on how hard and far gone the leather is. Warming the oil helps, as others have mentioned. If you have something to support the leather while you're rubbing, warmed bees wax makes a fine dressing. I have a Brooks saddle on my old 10 speed P08 that needs serious attention You can also try Bag Balm or Hoof Alive from the feed store.

[Tin Can]

A lot of sources do not like neatsfoot. I quote here, from a Leather Belt maker, 'The Beltman' good belts btw,

"Obenauf's Heavy Duty Leather Preservative (LP) is the most durable protection available for leather on the face of the planet. Originally developed for the extraordinary conditions endured by wildland firefighters, LP protects, preserves, and restores furniture, boots, saddles, motorcycle leathers, fine apparel, tool pouches, gloves, baseball mitts, and more. It is especially useful for any leather that gets worked hard and is regularly exposed to severe elements.

Three different natural oils are suspended in Beeswax and Propolis. In the leather these oils gradually seep out of the Beeswax/Propolis. If exposed to heat or flexing the oils are released faster so leather gets oiled instead of parched and cracked. This Beeswax/Propolis* Suspension Formula provides a time-release lubrication to inner fibers while the surface is reinforced against scuffing, and the leather still breathes. The remarkable result is Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP that:
Repels water better and longer.
Repels acids, petroleum, salt, and chemicals.
Restores dried leather to a soft and supple condition and protects it from further damage.
Prevents dry rot and resists mildew.
Resists premature cracking in flex areas.
Works great on Gore-Tex® footwear.
Is odorless after applied (very important for hunters).
Restores sun-faded leather.
Resists scuffing and dry rot.
Applies easily with with a clean cloth.
Penetrates deeply into leather.
Can be buffed to shine or polished over.
Contains no harmful silicones, petroleums, solvents, or neatsfoot.
Is approved for Gore-Tex® footwear.
*Propolis resists bacteria and mildew, and is a barrier against manure acid, salt, caustic chemicals, and petroleum. Combined with beeswax it repels water better and longer. "

As I stated I have used this product, mainly on motorcycle leathers. A little goes a long way.

I am torn between this and Nuetrogena. I hate to destroy something trying to preserve it...I guess I will start with a Japanese camera, as I think there are more of them.

Thanks everybody!

[E. von Hoegh]

A lot of sources do not like neatsfoot. I quote here, from a Leather Belt maker, 'The Beltman' good belts btw,

"Obenauf's Heavy Duty Leather Preservative (LP) is the most durable protection available for leather on the face of the planet. Originally developed for the extraordinary conditions endured by wildland firefighters, LP protects, preserves, and restores furniture, boots, saddles, motorcycle leathers, fine apparel, tool pouches, gloves, baseball mitts, and more. It is especially useful for any leather that gets worked hard and is regularly exposed to severe elements.

Three different natural oils are suspended in Beeswax and Propolis. In the leather these oils gradually seep out of the Beeswax/Propolis. If exposed to heat or flexing the oils are released faster so leather gets oiled instead of parched and cracked. This Beeswax/Propolis* Suspension Formula provides a time-release lubrication to inner fibers while the surface is reinforced against scuffing, and the leather still breathes. The remarkable result is Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP that:
Repels water better and longer.
Repels acids, petroleum, salt, and chemicals.
Restores dried leather to a soft and supple condition and protects it from further damage.
Prevents dry rot and resists mildew.
Resists premature cracking in flex areas.
Works great on Gore-Tex® footwear.
Is odorless after applied (very important for hunters).
Restores sun-faded leather.
Resists scuffing and dry rot.
Applies easily with with a clean cloth.
Penetrates deeply into leather.
Can be buffed to shine or polished over.
Contains no harmful silicones, petroleums, solvents, or neatsfoot.
Is approved for Gore-Tex® footwear.
*Propolis resists bacteria and mildew, and is a barrier against manure acid, salt, caustic chemicals, and petroleum. Combined with beeswax it repels water better and longer. "

As I stated I have used this product, mainly on motorcycle leathers. A little goes a long way.

I am torn between this and Nuetrogena. I hate to destroy something trying to preserve it...I guess I will start with a Japanese camera, as I think there are more of them.

Thanks everybody!

Do you mean "Neatsfoot oil compound" or pure Neatsfoot oil? There's a huge difference. I've been using pure Neatsfoot oil on the bellows of my Linhof and Deardorff since the late 1980s. They are the original bellows, 63 years old on the 'dorff and 54 years old on the Linhof.

[John Kasaian]

I knew a cowboy in Colorado who was never without his leather work gloves. He maintained them by rubbing in skin lotion every opportunity (his Brides's, samples given at department stores, whatever he happened to come upon) as well as Corona livestock liniment.

[coisasdavida]

It has occurred to me to use hand creme and Neutrogena is very good stuff. I am going to try it. It moistens skin, but then dries without greasy feelings.

That is a great suggestion!

At first the cream gets white as you spread, 15 minutes later the bellows had taken it all in, I let it sit mid-drawal over night. It looks alive!

[Jody_S]

The reason I suggest the can of Pledge furniture polish for badly dried bellows and camera gear is of course because it's a spray. You don't have to wipe it on, you can simply hold the can a few inches away and saturate the dried bellows (inside and out) or whatever, and wait for it to soften. I have had good results with bellows approaching their 130th birthday, and press camera shutter curtains that neared 100 years.

For normal maintenance, I do use pure Neatsfoot oil, gently wiped on and sometimes worked into the leather. For recent but completely dried and stiff leather, I have a stripper to remove the varnish-type finish before working in the oil, and another product to re-do the gloss finish. They're both made by Fiebing's: 'Deglazer' and 'Resolene'.

[domaz]

100% neatsfoot oil (NOT compound)is good stuff, as is mink oil, and glycerin. It really depends on how hard and far gone the leather is. Warming the oil helps, as others have mentioned. If you have something to support the leather while you're rubbing, warmed bees wax makes a fine dressing. I have a Brooks saddle on my old 10 speed P08 that needs serious attention You can also try Bag Balm or Hoof Alive from the feed store.

I just use Proofide on my Brooks saddles and my leather camera bellows and it seems to work great for both.

[Leigh]

Any item that is real leather will benefit from the maintenance/preservative products
available at Red Wing shoe stores.

- Leigh