Problems with Ilfochrome Prints Processed with Jobo

[Doug Herta]

According to the JOBO CCP-2 Guide under Ilfochrome Processing:

Brown or yellow spots on back side of print...

Decrease rinse time and/or water volume after developer.

They are pretty particular that the post-developer rinse be the same volume as the other chemistry as well as sticking to 30 sec at 30 degrees.

[Andre Noble]

Doug, thanks very much for that late tip! I honestly think that's the cause because staining so pervasive throughout print backs. I think I over-did the first rinse volume due to slopiness - I'd pour a nice volume of clean distilled water- usually appx twice the chem volumes - straight from a tempered 1000ml bottle.

In photo school, we used an Jobo-like Omni processor that automatically dispensed the liquid volumes, and no yellow or brown stains on print backs then. I don't think we cleaned the drum particularly carefully after using them, and backs of prints came out o.k., save for the occaisional green blotch on back. (but that's another issue)

On my next run: 1)Clean drums w/ hot water 2)Fresh chems 3)Minmal rinse volume after developer

[Larry Gebhardt]

Andre, did the smaller rinse fix your problem? I have just started printing Ilfochromes and have been having this problem as well. I also use a rinse before the developer to warm the drum (as mentioned at http://luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/ilfochro.shtml) though I am using a Jobo set at 30C and my rinse is also at 30C.

[Andre Noble]

Hello Larry, thanks for bringing attention to this post again. I will be printing Cibachromes again in another month, haven't had the chance yet to print Cibachromes since this last post in order to make adjustments above, ie "1)Clean drums w/ hot water 2)Fresh chems 3)Minimal rinse volume after developer."

I think if we are sure to do all three, there won't be a problem.(knock on wood)

PS, this time I hope to be doing some contrast masking with Alistair Ingliss's kit too, we'll see.

[brian davis]

can anyone tell me why my prints are coming out the jobo looking blue have i done something wrong in the timing or temperature thanks for the help ?? brian

[Paul Metcalf]

Brian- Lot's of blue and all over the print, or light areas of blue? Extending the final washing will help with light areas of blue - you can essentially soak the print. What film are you printing? Some films cross over in color, and blue seems to happen the most (former Lumiere film was notorius for color cross over to blue in my experience).

[brian davis]

Thanks for the reply - actually i am using a pinhole camera which i have loaded with ilfochrome so i am not using a darkroom projector therefore i cannot filter colors - its kinda blue all over although i am getting clean white and black and some other colors but mainly blue - i will try and extending the final wash - any other thoughts

[Nick_3536]

The paper is intended for enlarger light sources [2800k or 3400k I think the second one is right] You're out in daylight at 5500k [for the sake of discusion. The actual colour temp of daylight will vary] So you need to warm up the sun with a filter. Something like this.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=87223&is=REG

[Andre Noble]

That's right. The above is an 85C, perhaps you could use even an 85B???

But this is the right line of thinking. Only need to get a cheap polyester filter 3"x3" version for his pinhole camera also.

[Nick_3536]

Might be able to pick up a used glass one for less then a new gel. I don't know the design of the pinhole camera but I wonder if you could just glue a step ring on the front then use that for screw filters. Glass filters last if not abused. OTOH you could just tape the gel filter onto the inside of the camera.

Don't expect perfect colour. At least I wouldn't.