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Try it putting benzotriazole in the developer and use shorter developer times. I have exhibited prints done on paper from the 1960's, especially Brovira. I once made a contact print that I later...

That is the story I heard about the Commercial view, that it was only made until about 1943. It sounds as if Gustafson is suggesting they were made until 1953 or so. One of those photo legends. ...

I have found very different results. The Forte paper I have develops a medium grey straight out of the package, even at only ten years old. I have 25 year old Agfa Brovira that remains pure white. ...

Yeah; I had to replace mine after a year!

http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-111.html
Take a look at this easy solution. I did it for my Minolta SRT cameras and it is a cheap and easy fix.

The struts come out the front beside the baseboard. I have one, and removed those struts to attach the enlarger to the wall. With the struts in place I could not use my bigger easels but with them...

I found two backs over a month period on eBay. The first Technika III I had did not have one, so I went looking, found a "junked " camera that had one, got that found the back good and everything...

Since the notches are on the long side, I wonder if it wasn't a cut down piece.

Find out what is working and what isn't first. If the shutters are good then check the bellows for light leaks. If that's good then start thinking about clean-up. I would use something like mink...

[QUOTE=Randy Moe;1320508]In the latest View Camera magazine Steve Anchell announced his newest Version of 'The Darkroom Cookbook 4th edition', released this month.

I bought the eBook version...

149031 The Central School building has a bronze emblem attached to the front saying it is on the National Historic register as a 19th century school for what was once a thriving farming community...

The Spokane Public Bath, 1912. changing house for the first public swimming pools in Spokane. Too many kids were dying in the river in the hot summers and behind the camera two pools were built...

I have used a lot of old AGFA paper, especially Brovira and every package was still good. It is the most durable paper I've ever found. (except maybe for some AZO and Velox from the 1940's.)

I've tried it with cyanotype...too slick for an even coat. I've also tried it with albumen and no go. I don't get what they have in mind. The coating does not absorb readily solutions like...

My wife and I hung a show of contact prints a couple years ago, matted on boards without frames. The presentation as a whole looked good in the gallery and people seemed especially interested because...

http://media1.fdncms.com/inlander/imager/u/big/2603897/artsculture8-1-d8c9ae724bdcd042.jpg
Jesse JAMES, on the right. Another mythical American gunman/hero who was really a bandit/murderer.

http://www.inlander.com/spokane/a-picture-of-the-good-life/Content?oid=2603899
tintype supposedly of Jesse James and Robert Ford found in Spokane, and dreams of a million bucks.

I use HC-110 solution B and do two sheets before dumping the developer. I use about 8 oz. of developer per tube.

Awfully nice lighting for a jail cell. Looks more like a studio shot with a skylight.

I put 99 dollar Chinese bellows on my wife's Technika 3 and they are just fine.

I've got a couple portraits on a thin silver paper glued to a cardboard embossed with the studio name from a couple locations in England and the prints seem to be toned. No dates but they look to be...

But isn't the OPs question more directly about the early commercial studios? The platinum process didn't really go commercial till the 1870s, but there were manufacturers of albumen and collodian...

also see http://albumen.conservation-us.org/library/monographs/reilly/chap2.html
The Albumen and Salted Paper Book , for some detailed descriptions.

For AZO and other silver chloride papers I always use a tungsten bulb. The chloride emulsion is sensitive to visible light, much slower as you know than bromide, but prints very well with a light...

Yes, the screw on the tiltall is long enough. I just mounted my Cal 4X5 on one to make sure.

I use silver chloride contact printing papers under a worklight. Sometimes I use a 40 watt bulb for a thinner negative (or for a negative requiring some dodging and burning) but normally a 200 watt. ...

No need to take a wild guess. Just make an exposure for each using the filter factors you find in Adams book, assuming the dark red is a 25, for example and that the yellow is a K2. Then you are...

I use Lodima and Fomalux, about the same price, 2 bucks a sheet for 8X10. For developers I use either Amidol or D-72. (I mix my own). Both papers are silver chloride. Sometimes I want to use a...

old thread but I just found out we have the complete set of 20 volumes in the Spokane Public Library and will see them Saturday. Curtis used mostly a whole plate camera in the field, processed the...

I've never come across a Pacemaker with a bad bellows or a bad focal plane shutter. One thing to look out for are damaged rear rails. I've seen plenty of those, from someone trying to close the lid...

I'm so glad I got it. My 10 inch Ilex Caltar left a lot of messiness in the sky because I had to use some front rise and the coverage isn't good enough for that so it's a pain to print. I feel...

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Austin: Here is a scan of my 8X10 shot of what I believe was the building which was burned. It was in the same yard as the bottle house. I photographed it a year ago.

You should be using TF5, the alkaline fixer with hardener to protect your negative and you should fix with agitation for at least one minute. The agitation is important but the hardener is equally...

amen...

Bill: I don't understand your comment that your graflex is not self capping? What you described is exactly correct, so how is that not self-capping? I own a RB4X5 Graflex and have taken out the...

Good shots and I am never surprised by the quality of the 135mm Optar lens.

When you trip the shutter, it doesn't move a complete curtain into place with no slit showing? What happens after the exposure? How else would you be able to control the shutter speed?

Bill

There is no hard movement in using a bag mag. Everything is gentle; pull the rod out, squeeze the septum though the leather bag, slide it back into the bag mag and then slide the rod in. No shaking...

With 4X5 I typically use D-23 which is very easy to make. I also use HC110 dilution B and rarely Pyro PMK in the tank. None have given me surge marks and I'd bet the pyro would be the most likely.

I lift three times, all at once, straight up and down, then tip to the left to drain, repeat and tip to the right and drain, then drop the hangers and let them rest. I do this at the top of every...