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Right you are on the plates + elongated holes. Not too elongated, mind you, but with just enough play for the rear rack to move away from the front rack and make its upward swing.

For the knob, a...

My recollection is that the square lens boards are standard across the entire lineup up to and including the P2. Anything that fits on the rail itself, including rail sections, are all...

Removing the back, as I recall, is quite easy. The rotating mechanism isn't greased, but it is such a tight fit that little bits of dust and crap get in there and bind the whole thing up. Get the...

Ansel adams suggests such an approach in The Print. His method is simply to dry-mount a good print back to back with a rejected print. As for specifically what the dry-mount adhesive Strand might...

What you're looking at in those pictures as already a basic, run-of-the-mill Sinar P 4x5. Regular 4x5 bellows, regular 4x5 back (consisting of a 4x5 carrier frame and a 4x5 film back). ...

Agreed, the selector knob was clunky at best. The stacked knobs are a much smoother solution.

The Sinar X may be easily identified by its red shift knobs and the fact that none of its movements...

The P2, as mentioned above, is only ever seen in all black, head to toe. It also, importantly, uses dedicated knobs for swing and axis tilt, rather than the selective single knob on the silver P.

There are also lubricants that need to be refreshed. The brass gearset was actually a Sinar addition from the factory, as the early P2s used nylon tracks that wore more quickly than was desired. ...

Hey all,

I've got a restoration going on a 5x7 Deardorff, early WWII construction, without front swing, and it needs new bellows. I had planned, some time ago, on using Western Bellows for the...

To revert, briefly to the original question: Every round-rail Sinar camera (so, everything except the A1, a.k.a. "Alpina") can be used with any Sinar rail clamp. Easy as that.

I'd say thats pretty reliable proof.

While "best" is a subjective term even on the nicest days (see how I avoided the pun there?), I'd still argue that the Jobo Expert 4x5/8x10 tanks are the most...

Process lenses? Industrial lenses?

Another vote for Sinar, from a guy who's been working with the system for years. Only caution is that while some parts interchange for the Norma, many others do not. Not so with the F1/F2/P/P2...

If, as the saying goes, the right hand doesn't know what the left hand is doing, and we assume Fuji Japan to the left hand, then not only does Fuji NA have any clue what Fuji Japan is up to, they're...

Why not back up a step and devise an LED-based white-light source to retrofit existing color heads? Wouldn't that solve all the problems of color balance and light output for various colors of LEDs...

OK, here goes:

Firstly, congratulations on the find. They're one of the best print dryers ever conceived for small-scale use.

I can't comment on the use of RC paper through them, since its...

Discussion aside, the Sinar system works like this:

Assuming you're working with 4x5, then what you do is 1) with your aperture set wide open, focus on the farthest point you want to be in sharp...

Sinar had at least three: Sinar Digital Shutter, Sinar Expolux Shutter, and Sinar Expolux Tricolor shutter. The Digital is prone to failure, and the Tricolor is generally useless outside its very...

The P2 rear format frame is slightly larger than that of a P, as the dimension of the back increased to accommodate the meter probe option. Consequently, the rear measurement of th bellows had to...

Lets back this up for a second. Can we safely assume that you know how to physically operate the swing, tilt, and shift mechanisms, to actually get the camera body to operate in the ways you're...

I think I've got some info kicking around someplace. What do you want to know?

It's not even that there are 'general purpose' papers and 'good stuff' papers, its simply that people need to admit to and accept that RC is not fiber and fiber is not RC. Certainly, the core...

I worked briefly with Kodak Polycontrast RC as a student before switching to Ilford MGIV-RC, which was easier to come by at the time (still is, I suppose). From there I worked over to MGIV-FB for...

Be cautioned: while the Sinar-Copal Auto-Aperture shutter is a fine piece of engineering, and can be adjusted and possibly repaired by good technicians, the Sinar Digital Shutter cannot be repaired...

The rail clamp has a 3/8-16 threaded hole in it, and will readily mount to your hex plate using the larger of the two available screws.

My P2 has one, and it's a nice thing to have when you're unlocking a big lens on a DB board.

Yep, every single one from the Norma on through to the P3.

The 45S is made, the Dichro 45 is the one to watch out for. If the head displays filtration values on lighted dials, you're solid. If it displays it on led panels, steer clear unless you really...

I think that this all really boils down to the following summary:

If all values in the process from capture to final print are held the same, then there would be no need to produce a test strip. ...

Those latches held in various blockout plates for making 2 images side-by-side with a sliding back.

On the broader scale: more than likely you do not want a Dichro 45, as they are few and far between in good working order, and subject to impossible repair opportunities. The Beseler-Minolta 45A...

I feel like we're missing the part where someone says something to the effect of "ISO can only be accurately and repeatably determined under exacting scientific standards in a laboratory setting, as...

I'll second everything that Frank says. A lighter-weight option is to use the rod, and two bellows clips and a spare bellows. No masking ability, but much less bulk. Not that bulk is something you...

BTZS tubes, anyone? Shall we throw him straight into the deepest, darkest end of the pool straight off the bat? ;)

Since when have LF people been complaining about this "too much light" nonsense? I hope this doesn't become the same sort of fad as 'digital photography'... ;)

Thats just the thing, though: solvents and plastics have a shaky relationship, at best, and a lot of the gearing inside your Sinar is plastic. Sinar's idea was that there should be no metal-on-metal...

I think the worry there would be wether or not WD-40 is safe for use on the plastic components of Sinar movements. Some chemicals will weaken the plastics. A previous thread from way back suggested...

Unplug the skinny wire and the light should go out. If it goes out, the problem is with your timer. Make sure the switch marked "enlarger" is set to "time" unless you are focusing. If the light...

Colin,

a) unless a larger hexagonal plate is available for that head, it will be too small.

b) any head plate that is larger than the diameter of the base of your rail clamp will work fine. ...

KEH.com might also be a place to look.