Check the focus, i.e. the glass placement. I've had several Deardorffs, 810 and 57. The glass is always off. And not even parallel. Usually sloped in one direction. As much as 0.030". That's...
Type: Posts; User: Eric Woodbury; Keyword(s):
Check the focus, i.e. the glass placement. I've had several Deardorffs, 810 and 57. The glass is always off. And not even parallel. Usually sloped in one direction. As much as 0.030". That's...
My rule of thumb.
Example: If I'm using an 8 inch lens (210mm) and it is focused at 11 inches, then that is the equivalent of one stop addition (in this not-so-cleaver example, notice that 8...
FP4 is probably fine, at least mine lasted a long time. I don't know TMAX, but 100ASA is in your favor. You'll just have to try. Little thermal fogging, but perhaps cosmic ray fogging. 400ASA...
Welcome. You're photo education shows. Nice.
-e-
I had an element stuck one time. My camera repair tech wrapped double-stick tape on the outer diameter of the element so he could get a secure grip. You can also wrap it on your hands if you can't...
3 of one film and maybe a couple of others for special films.
A friend of mine uses Se toning. He uses it straight. Without dilution.
As always, test before you bet the farm.
Concentric rings 'might' work better than dots. No good choices here. Whatever shape you might use, as you stop down and are using more of center, where the concentration of opacity exists, the...
Perceived sharpness is a combination of resolution and contrast. Without one there is no other.
In other words, don't worry about it. Do the best you can and it's fine. Many a great...
Michael R (and others of course), the third thing you must have is coherent light. It doesn't need to be very coherent, but it must have some coherency. Fully diffuse light will not make a newton...
You should be fine. You have the washer on one end, directly over the legs. The washer doesn't weigh anything close to that and there are no dynamics here. Avoid earthquakes. Just give it a test....
Once from Japan for used camera and lens. Once from Spain for a new clarinet. Once from France for a used clarinet. And once from England last week for a new musical instrument.
Death and...
Except for very photo specific chemicals, I find many of the basic chemicals at Amazon and eBay.
Instead of Dektol, I prefer Ryuji Suzuki's DS-14. It keeps well and no carcinogens.
Ansel invented the zone system and is now alive and well as a fry cook in the Midwest somewhere.
I find that any developer with hydroquinone is 'harsh'. Maybe not officially harsh, if there is some definition of harsh for which I'm not aware, but HQ blocks highlights better than other...
I use the big lighting gels, too. Cut them to whatever size is needed. Put them in a cardboard holder. Some I've had a very long time. They work well and a stack of them weigh nothing.
-ew-
This is often discussed here. Personally, I 'iron' all my prints in a 200F dry mount press. Then I stack them face-to-face-back-to-back under a weight as they cool.
Never as flat as an RC...
I find mine easy to focus. It is long enough lens that there is not much loss at the ground glass.
As for compensation, same as any other lens when thought of in focal lengths to subject...
Use a grey card and compare to f/16 rule. Always do a mental check of your exposures even when the meter functions.
Drew, I don't remember the film, but I'll guess it was HP5. Exposures were still on the order of 20 minutes. While I was making the exposure, some other tourist lay on the floor under my tripod to...
From my distant pass, something I did for extreme compensation is to use PMK. Soak in part A concentrate for a few minutes. NO presoak. Return the concentrate to the storage bottle, it's fine. ...
Michael, thank you. Very informative. Over on the LFP articles page I read a little more and found the addition of borax to the D23 part may help, but I will try your suggest first.
Mark, I...
I'm not new to D23, but it was a long time ago. Recently I tried divided D23 (w/ Thornton's formula) and HP5. The negatives and proofs look good, but a little short on contrast. Times were...
Must be a switch in there somewhere. The FOR SALE subforum can be blocked for new users. I did a deep search and found an old reference to do this. Involved MY PROFILE, and some other sub menus,...
I think of this whole thing as "THE FORUM". I'd like to block the next level, such as ANNOUNCEMENTS, CAMERAS, DARKROOM, etc.
Thanks.
-e-
Alan, this is very clever. congrats.
If you'd like a linear response, use a photo diode in series with a grounded, high value resistor. One meg-ohm would be a good starting point. Reverse...
Alan Ross teaches masking and has some publications, too. Not sure if they are still available or not.
In aero-space industry, we always used a premixed, frozen version of 2216. Probably the same thing. I think it is the same thing they use to stick the reflective bums to the highway. The keys is a...
I agree. Extremely bright and annoying to work with. The LED heads I've designed and built have an attenuation knob to reduce output by 1, 2, 3, or 4 stops. Usually it's set to minus 3 stops and...
I worked for a group that made hermetic glass sealed pins for transmitting electrical signals into a vacuum. These were formed in a drilled hole through a special alloy of stainless steel. They...
Of the several 90s I've had, Nikkor 90/8 is the finest.
90/6.8 Angulon is the most compact for 4x5 and sharp enough, too. Later years they had modern shutters. Coatings are fine unless you are...
Schneider Angulon 90/6.8 #8803507, Synchro-Compur, coating marks, CLA'd, Ex $100.
I bought one of these a couple years back and I like very much. A nice small lens. Mine is a late model. ...
Clothespins. Just in the corner by the notch.
Why is it a downgrade? Best camera is the one with film in it.
The Fuji 400T I had didn't seem that sharp, at least my copy. Later, the Nikon 600/800 was quite sharp. All the telephotos are heavy and thus didn't get far from the car. I prefer non-telephotos. ...
I put it on a tripod which I put on my shoulder padded by the darkcloth which has a piece of foam tucked in it.
Go thru the darkroom portraits here and Photrio. Look at all the pictures. I still find these helpful. Not sure which darkroom number I'm on, except it is my last.
In the Darkroom Cookbook, there is one of his developers called WD2H. Apparently this was designed for use with FP4 to achieve N+4 development for his petroglyph series.
Neil, it can be done, but it is expensive if done correctly. LEDs are not voltage sensitive, but they are current sensitive. One electron gives one photon (excluding efficiency).
Personally, I...