Thanks guys for all your help! I will return the lens. In the meantime I will look for another lens. I may go with a 210mm to give me even more room for movements.
Type: Posts; User: brian steinberger; Keyword(s):
Thanks guys for all your help! I will return the lens. In the meantime I will look for another lens. I may go with a 210mm to give me even more room for movements.
So I tried the wall trick. The lens as a whole focused at infinity measured 5 3/8" from the wall.
Front group only - 11 1/2" to center
Rear group only - 5" to center
This was holding the...
Joe, this is great information. Thanks. I will try this experiment tomorrow when there's light.
Will, no I don't have another LF lens. Nor do I know anyone near me to borrow one. I have until next Friday to return, so plenty of time. If it's something I can fix I will, but if it's something...
Joe, do you mean to look through each element at a textured wall and see at what distance away from the wall it becomes sharp?
There is no markings on the rear element whatsoever.
Yea tell me about it! At least I have a 14 day return policy!
The Rear Element back:
128588
Here are some shots of the lens:
First the entire lens:
128584
The Front element:
Front: 128585
Back: 128586
The Rear Element:
Any part of the lens in particular?
The GG is in the correct way. Im afraid something is wrong with the lens. The GG to plane of focus on film is off by almost 3". That's why I'm confused.
I just acquired an ansco 5x7. I'm having two problems which I believe may be related. Here's the two problems:
The first problem I'm having is the bellows getting in the way of movements. I'm...
Are you using enough developer in your tray? You should have atleast 1/4" above the slosher in the tray. I use a little bit more. Also, you could cut the agitation cycles after the first minute...
I'm not split filter printing all the time. And when I'm not, it'd be nice to have constant highlight exposure between grades. I have Ilfords recommendations for M+Y to create constant contrast,...
I have a beseler 45s dichro head, so I am used to dialing in my filtration. But lately, I've been doing more and more split-filter printing, and dialing the extreme contrast changes into the head...
Jon, the main thing I like about Neopan 400 is the higlight seperation. Beautiful glowing highlights, that never seem to burn out. Of course I ran tests to determine proper development time for...
Totally agree! Fuji does make some of the best films in the world and yet only has two black and white emulsions, and people absolutely love them! Yet, they don't sell the only 4x5 B&W film, Acros,...
I have recently found my love in medium format for Fuji Neopan 400 developed in xtol 1:1. Unfortunately, Fuji doesn't make it in 4x5. Actually, just recently I found out that Neopan 400 is a...
I developed 6 sheets of 4x5 Delta 100 EI80 tonight for 14min. 70 deg. at 1:3 in a slosher tray. It was too long. The negs look bulletproof. Nice shadows. Just developed too long. I'm looking for...
A #22 orange filter is excellent. I'm finding it more and more to be my favorite filter for darkening skies as well as the polarizer. But I would recommend the #25 or #29 red filter also. I know...
I'm going to try out some Delta 100 in 4x5. I process my sheet film in a slosher that holds 6 sheets at a time in an 11x14 tray. I'd like to use either Xtol or ID-11 and either at the 1:3 dilution....
I think that using a slosher is no different than using any other method of processing. You need to run tests to determine a N development time.
For me, I agitate constantly for the first...
Steve,
I have some Pyrocat HD. What's a good starting time, dilution, agitation?
I'm starting a project documenting the inside of a local barn that is deteriorating. Light is very contrasty and I'm going to expose for shadows and try to bring very bright windows down using...
You're talking a difference of a 1/2" off each side. Not many people are going to notice that. I am actually a framer by profession, and prefer even borders on all sides (easy when you're cutting...
Negative film for portraits and trannys for landscapes seems to be the trend. I think it might be that one might like a boost in contrast and saturation for landscapes with Velvia, and the need of...
I'd just like to see where everyone is with this topic now. I know it's been beating to death in the past, but lets re-look at it now. With numerous post processing options, scanners, times are...
I've starting shooting some 4x5 Arista EDU Ultra (Foma) in 200 speed, mainly because it's cheap but also cause I know Foma has a good reputation. I'm wondering if anyone knows of any difference at...
Also Greg, I don't know how long you've been experimenting with your Holga, but I bought two together when I bought mine, and lucky that I did. The shutter on one quit working within a week. Also,...
Kevin,
Had the exact same problem last year. I tried to get a refund, nothing ever came of it. Nobody ever returned my calls and emails. I eventually sold the film on ebay just to get something...
I'm intersted in starting to shoot nighttime scenes around my hometown. I'm going to shoot with TMY 400 to avoid major reciprocity failure.
I don't understand how to meter for night time...
The "Variable Contrast Printing Manual" is a great suggestion. I would also recommend "Way Beyond Monochrome," by Lambrecht and Woodhouse. I consider this book my "Holy Bible" to Advanced darkroom...
Sandy,
Besides the stain, what are the other advantages of a pyrocatechin developer (pyrocat HD) over non-staining developers (DD-X, X-tol)? I'm just trying to get a feel for staining developers,...
Jay,
I should use graded paper for the zone VIII tests? This makes sense. But what if the graded paper's exposure scale isn't the same as the VC variety? What kind of analyzer are you using? ...
I have a Wista SP now and would like to add the longer bellows to my camera to take advantage of longer lenses. My questions are, with the standard rails, what is the longest lens that you can...
Guess I should add one or two.... or three
So, if I run tests to determine personal film speed test, and development time using a staining developer, say I get my personal EI (assuming .1 above fb+f) now want to test for development time. I...
You need to wash prior to toning to reduce the risk of stain from mass amounts of fixer remaining in the paper.
Here's the proper sequence. Out of fixer into wash for 5 minutes, into hypo-clear...
Thanks everyone!
Chilihead,
I'm using the standard dilution for rollo pyro (1:2:100). I would prefer to not mess with dilution until I get more experience.
Sandy,
Why, Pyrocat MC...
Sandy,
Yes, I got alot of base+fog stain, but I also overcooked them, as you might recall from a previous post a few days earlier. Will overdevelopment add alot of b+f stain?
I havent had...