Thanks! Hope it works well for you.
Type: Posts; User: Rafael Garcia; Keyword(s):
Thanks! Hope it works well for you.
Neil: No, the blades give a lot, and have stayed strong for several years now (I finished the camera in December 2009). The amount of flex needed to insert and remove a filmholder is really not a...
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Taken with the camera above... in 8x10.
Curtis: I re-read your question and now I understand what you ask: not what keeps the GG frame on (the springs) but what secures the actual back to the camera. The experiment was to use "base"...
Spring pressure and the head of the four sliders! Works great and, so far, no spring breakage from the hacksaw blades!
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a second view...
Sorry for the long silence... have been away. All I did was file the teeth off two hacksaw blades. The build was a prototype, to solve problems, so I was not concerned too much with appearance. ...
LOL, guys! You make me feel great! OK, so I am not as old as you, but I feel like someone's been hitting me with a 2x4 when I haven't been paying attention... Anyway, the ink era ended definitely...
Old days = 1970's... you refer to times beyond the limit of old, and well into the field of ancient. Old still walks the Earth, Ancient hangs around museums.
The rapidograph-type technical pens...
In the old days, we used to clean solidified india ink technical drafting pens with an ultrasonic cleaner. The pens were immersed in liquid (water?) and the device sent sound waves through the water...
Feet starting to smell bad and to feel pretty hot... Jac? I'd like to get up and go to the bathroom! Was that what you were asking?
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Houmas House, plantation house near Baton Rouge, Louisiana, on the Mississippi
Gundlach Korona 5x7, 7 1/2" f4.4 Wollensak Raptar on an Alphax shutter
Sorry for the deletion above -...
Not sure what you ask... but it would not be you if you didn't...
The shutter came from the big auction site, it has iris and shutter and is in reasonably accurate working order. The Metrogon...
...and I have a couple more, still unmounted, that I bought some time later from the surplus place you connected me with! The assembled one is a different mount design. The two loose elements are...
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(These are test shots of the configuration - please don't judge their photographic quality, which is zero! The better one of the four was the brick corner I published...
As I said above, these old shots how how I mounted it to the German shutter: I pressure-clamped it! You can tell the half-plate's lensboard size was a bit small: the three screws are all slightly...
Jac, I'll do what I can! I dug the Metrogon up (had not messed with it in a long time), and it's now mounted on a lensboard for the homebuilt 8x10, with a Packard shutter on the inside of the...
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Before the Packard... testing the Metrogon using the hat trick and paper negatives...
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paper negative test (reversed )
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I later shuttered the Metrogon
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Poole's Mill Bridge, Forsyth County, Georgia
Wista 45SP (4x5), 135mm f5.6 Nikkor - W on a Copal shutter
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Metrogon???! LOL! Yep. On a Packard shutter, no less!
Half plate is the size of the media, in this case. It is 4.25 x 5.5 inches. The wooden bookform filmholders that fit the original back for the camera held sheets of film in the half-plate size. ...
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New bellows (by Mark Kapono, in Hawaii - several years ago)
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Compressed
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shot with the 121mm SA
camera bought for approximately $140.00, backs for less than $15.00 (and...
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Nameplate
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With shuttered Metrogon
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121mm Super Angulon
The camera is a c.1939 Asanuma Shokai King No. 1, made in Japan. The original format is half-plate, probably built bt Nagaoka and branded "King" as Asanuma's house brand. The half-plate format makes...
Front rise/fall, tilt, swing and shift. The back is mounted rigidly on the carriage that rides the focusing rod, but, with some work, shift, swing, and tilt could be added there, not sure about...
If it protrudes from the surface you can file the top as a hex or square bolt and then use pliers to turn it. My Speed Graphic's Kalart seems to be different...
Interesting approach! Of course, the clamp from Home Depot posted above would also work, and may be more easily attached permanently or chained to it... Will remember.
How do the jaws spring to close? I see the clip is pressing them open because there may be an axle below the piece of black tape...a spring between the bottom (squeezed) legs?
OK, did not know that existed. Can't beat it with a stick... plain perfect! Thanks!
A beauty! The helical focuser is from telescope technology? Orion probably carries some 2" diameter helicals...
That might work... I'll go look for them! Size will matter.
Sounds correct... I'll have to get to work on it. The spring clamp is probably going to have to be either an electrical or an automotive part, I guess, for starters.
The secret to perfection is the clutch. Without it you turn the rod forever before you are in the field of focus for your lens. Of course, you can do a rough pre-focus if you are familiar with your...
As I recall (and it has been a couple of years) I did something similar...
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an early shot of the focusing mechanism without the rear standard being attached. This shows the threaded rod (and the initial front yoke round knobs I later replaced!)
Yes, just your standard Home Depot threaded rod... gives pretty accurate focus control... I wanted to add a crank rod to speed up bellows extension/collapse, but that will happen with the final...
Sorry to hear that... it is an excellent back because of the glass.
It was a learning experience, Jac. Was observing my other cameras, and working with the 8x10 filmholders and my router table... The glass is Satin Snow, ordered online. Don't know if it is still...
Thanks, Vinny! It is, indeed!
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lensboard lock (window hardware!)
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levels and strap (strap from VanDykes Restorers)
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the original red bellows - very heavy and "floppy"!
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frame
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side view
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back
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