Is the eyepiece set properly on the Patterson Focusing aid? It adjusts by loosening the setscrew slightly, then slide the eyepiece until the line in the finder in sharp, then tighten the setscrew.
Type: Posts; User: dsphotog; Keyword(s):
Is the eyepiece set properly on the Patterson Focusing aid? It adjusts by loosening the setscrew slightly, then slide the eyepiece until the line in the finder in sharp, then tighten the setscrew.
Try fixing longer, with constant agitation.
The most common failure is when someone forces the aperture ring and breaks the locating pins off of the blades.
Next, 14x17...
To control leakage, I put masking tape around the lid, leaving a tab at the corner for pouring out.
You might research xray film.
Totally sure the lens aperture is wide open, and not all the way closed down?
Also, there are 2 positions for the reflex mirror, the lever on the left side of the mirror chamber. check that specification for the condensers in use.
The HAG in the Durst 184 condenser head is also 2 piece.
I use masking tape to secure the lid, all around the seam, except for the pouring out corner. This prevents the lid from popping open and minimizes leaking.
Not specific to your equipment, I mounted Nikon bellows and slide duplicator by using a short extension tube to allow clearance for the built in camera grip.
There are 2 electric cords one to the timer, the other runs a built in heater, be sure to unplug the heater when not in use.
Best way to work on it would be to set it on a table allowing access from all sides.
Sounds misaligned, it should be fairly easy to put them back on track.
There are 4 rollers riding between the column and the carriage, they look like small train wheels. Check those for alignment.
Are the rollers that the carriage rides on seated against the column?
Yes, they are good size, of course they also made the L184 10x10 enlarger...
In the US 120 volt G40 decorative bulbs are still available. I've used 100 and 150 watt for prints with 5x7 condensers.
A hose clamp is much more secure than o rings.
And yes, completely change the
wash tray water frequently.
Ideal for an off the grid darkroom.
My "flying saucer" uses a very inexpensive, houshold circular fluorescent tube, that's readily available. A real plus.
"The better the 4 wheel drive,
The farther out you get stuck..."
Outstanding stereo image!
Many LF cameras were modified by past owners, pros thought nothing about improving tools of the trade to suit their application.
People are still doing that.
Speed graphics are very simple mechanically, and were designed to be fixable on the battlefield. There's a lot of DIY info online.
Most of the ones I've come across just need a few drops of sewing...
Try Graham at graflexparts.com
I'm wondering how well this would work making darkroom prints from slides...
Has anyone tried that?
Sure miss Cibachrome!
Second the air bubbles
I'm no expert, my first thought is the timer, and how it's connected.
I don't have that literature, but I've used and maintained a couple of those...
The weakness I observed was the socket the bulbs press into, the contact inside would erode and fail to conduct.
I also have one of these...
I have two of the 184's, I think if the gear is metal it would live a lot longer.
Maybe brass. On both of mine, the failure point is the hole where the drive pin engages the gear.
They also have a 12x24 inch one!
Crown Graphics have front tilt....
Drop the bed, raise the front standard, use the backward tilt of the front standard to adjust and fine tune the amount of front tilt you want.
Regarding LF gear, I get great satisfaction using older cameras, a Crown Graphic or an Ansco, can make an image as good as a Linhof, or Deardorff....
Spend your dough on the best glass, that levels...
Due to more chemical carry over, Fiber base paper tends to exhaust stop bath and fixer faster.,
Also, try constant agitation in the fixer.
First, determine if it's on the plate itself...
Are you developing the plates back to back?
Maybe a bit too long under safelight. Could show the edge of one on another, or a bit light struck in a...
You might try tightly screwing the step ring into a lens, then you'll have more leverage.
If I remember correctly, Richard Avedon used a 14 in. Commercial Ektar for his 8x10 portraits.
He seemed to do rather well.
I recommend you shoot with it (even as is) before selling it.
It just...