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There seems to be a common method to avoid such snafus:

Let's move back on-topic and see if we can help the OP decide how to spend his hard-earned cash on a lens...

When I consider adding a lens, and I have a couple of focal lengths under review, I...

Bill,

I see nothing in the usage guidelines for the LF forum that forbids linking to APUG. Here is the relevant excerpt from the guidelines.

"Links to published articles - Direct links (i.e....

Cletus,

The goal is to optimize your aperture for the image you are making. The depth-of-field vs. diffraction tradeoff has been discussed in depth on the LF Homepage here:...

+1

That said, I do carry a small Voss "filter holder" with barn doors on it. It folds up into a 3-inch square is less than 1/4-inch thick folded. This I use when I have the time, especially when...

While your at it, check for light leaks in your lensboard(s) and front standard where the lensboard mounts. Check the seating of the filmholders in the back; look for missing baffling, felt, etc. ...

I have a few wooden folders that I've added levels to. Here are my recommendations:

First, an accurate bull's-eye level is simple to use and you only have to mount it once. You need at least two...

On a related note: I've noticed that the shaded areas in clouds can vary a lot in color. Often the shadows are lit by surrounding skylight, making them rather bluish, sometimes they are lit by the...

The Ilford fixing and washing sequence has been called into question on this forum and APUG a number of times. From what I understand of the subject, some papers just don't fix to completion in the...

TF-4 is an alkaline rapid (i.e., ammonium thiosulfate) fixer.
Ilford Rapid Fix and Hypam are slightly acidic rapid fixers.

Both should have similar capacities.

One of the advantage of an...

Gentlemen:

I stand corrected! I was referring to numerous sources on color temperature and white balancing on the web that indicated the usual 5500°K for sunlight and color temperatures ranging...

That may all be true, but still, the color temperature on a cloudy day or in fog is much higher (bluer) than on a sunny day, and much more blue than what color film is balanced for (hence the use of...

I carry a Wratten 44 or 44a when I can, which turns panchromatic film orthochromatic. Blue-green sensitivity only can be very gratifying in shots with lots of foliage and rather dark blue-sky lit...

I like thinking that this rather trivial discussion will likely be archived in perpetuity, until doomsday or server failure, whichever comes first, along with everything else on this forum.

IMO,...

Rtfm? http://di.hexagram.ca/files/manuals/cameras/sinar_introductionmanual.pdf

Seriously, there are lots of resources, and learning about camera movements is not a subject easily learned (or...

If you compare the shape of the groove-"shadow" on your negative to your washer dividers and your trays, I think you'll find the culprit. For me, the negative defects do not look like the washer...

Mike,

I'm just brainstorming here... Doesn't the Paterson auto-washer agitate? If so, that localized turbulence might be affecting stain formation somewhat (you did say you used Pyrocat). Have...

All the cameras mentioned above are good choices. I'd add to that the Horseman Woodman. It's basic, but very light if that is what you are looking for.

You should be aware that none of these...

Many, if not most, formulas for ammonium thiosulfate fixers assume that the user is mixing from a 60% liquid stock solution of ammonium thiosulfate. This is readily available in the States and...

I know Zone VI used to make their drydown timer for this reason. The thinking was that once one determined the percentage of drydown, you could just dial in the percentage of reduced exposure after...

To summarize the above:

It all boils down to optimizing a few parameters for your particular needs: coverage, size and image brightness. If you need light and small and don't plan on using any...

Wood is almost always more elegant than plexiglass... :)

Best,

Doremus

So air can easily get in and out of the bellows when opening and closing the camera and, most importantly, so you can focus on the aerial image at the corner and/or check to see if you can see the...

FWIW, I do a fair amount of tabletop work with a standard 135mm plasmat. I'm sure it is not at its best with repro ratios less than 1:10 (but likely not more than 1:5), however, for prints up to...

I love the Wide-field Ektars. I have three, two 135mms and 100mm. The 135mm has greater coverage and not much more size/weight than a plasmat and is great for times when you need a bit more...

Drew,

This is straightforward copy work. I'm assuming that you are pointing the camera straight down with the book lying flat. (A copy stand would really help here, or maybe if you could mount...

Kev,

I've had used PMK go bad sitting in a tray for slightly less than half-an-hour. That doesn't mean that it lost all its activity, but that the negatives developed in the older developer were...

A good idea too. My notes say that replacing the 6g of Metol with 0.6g Phenidone will make an even softer-working formula.

And, preflashing is a good way to bring down highlight too if the...

A classic low-contrast developer is Ansco 120 (p. 188 in my copy of TDC). I use it often for split developing and for printing higher-contrast negs on graded paper.

Best,

Doremus

Yes, 1+63 from the (North American) syrup. Don't forget to give extra exposure to support the shadows. I give an extra stop.

Best,

Doremus

It's been a while since I used HC-110 for contractions, but when I was, I successfully used water-bath development as follows:

HC-110 1+63. Presoak the film for 3 minutes minimum. 20 seconds in...

You've changed two things; paper and developer. Maybe it's the paper, maybe the developer that is giving you less contrast. LPD is generally known for good contrast, so I might suspect the paper. ...

... and the Fresnel you have is from Wista, a different company that also makes field cameras. It should work just fine.

Best,

Doremus

Amen!

Doremus

I think I've mentioned that I learned about using shift/rise/fall to move the optical center of a composition off-center from Canaletto. I studied a bit of art history in my university days and am...

If you have one of the older single-coated Fuji lenses, then that is likely your problem (assuming the lens is in otherwise good condition). I've had some flare issues with single-coated plasmats...

Eric,

Another solution (pun intended) is to simply mix your solution B in twice as much distilled water and then use twice as much when mixing your working solution (or, if you are a real...

Let's distinguish between angle of view and image angle. The former is in front of the lens, the latter behind it. Neither the focal length nor the angle of view should change when extending the...

The simplest tools and procedures require the greatest skill. Tray developing takes some practice and dexterity, along with concentration. I still think that it's the best and most even method once...

Any print that I would not be happy exhibiting goes into the trash (which is most of them...)

Vaughn,

I'm interested in how you recycle discard prints to reclaim the silver. Would you mind...