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So you shoot with CMS20 at 4x5 inch and FP4+ at 8x10 inch? If yes, please post your comparison of the results. I would be interested how you did like CMS anyway.

Best of luck for your shoting!...

I forget to mention some really important difference between the Ortho and the CMS. The Ortho because of it´s ortho characteristic will render skin tones of "white" skin darker than CMS which is...

I used the (Adox) Ortho 25 film that should be the same as Rollei Ortho 25. I developed in Rodinal 1+75 and 1+100 for about 10 to 13 minutes. The results can be enlarged 10 times linear without...

You should think about using Rodinal more diluted for such high contrast scenes. Something about 1+100 or 1+150. Combined with only that much agagiton as its needed the longer time would give the...

Important point. HP5+ maybe the sharpest of all ISO 400 films if developed in an high acutance developer. The resolution numbers do not say much about sharpness, but they shurely say something about...

I took them from a chart in a German forum. The author is highly reliable and some of these numbers I have read already at different places. The numbers also make sense from experiences I have with...

It´s as easy as enlarging, even easier, because you don´t have to focus. Take the same paper and your color enlarger.



The 8x10 contact print theoretically has got better picture qualities:...

I agree with Barlow´s initiative. If someone decided for shooting one special Kodak 8x10 inch film, a box of 10 seems like a joke to me. A box 25 would be a good amount. But it was a bad thing for...

If the grain and sharpness are the most important for you, then the vote for TMAX 400 is very clear. Here are the number of line pairs that the three films and your known TMAX 100 can resolve at high...

sorry, just a little error

In general the higher you dilute a developer the more it tends to work compensating on the contrast. If you want to achieve higher contrast you should work with stronger, less diluted developer or...

I was kind of absent-minded yesterday in the late evening. Naturally you use Scheimpflug with the camera to tilt the sharpness plane and perspective correction is done by shifting the lens board.
...

I did it only once a long time ago. So I can offer only theory which you might already know. The best kind of correcting perspective while enlarging is when you can incline both: the paper (holder)...

Which kind of Rodinal do you use? There are at least three kinds of it out there...

Best,
Andreas

SPUR HRX III could be an interesting liquid developer. This very new, high tech dev promises finest grain and highest resolution, but the film speed is possibly reduced by one f-stop. The producer...

From the overall quality and relatively "healthy" chemicals standpoint, I would recommend Xtol. Solve the powder in 5 liters water and fill it up in five 1 liter bottles. So you have only one open...

Rodinal (R09) 1+150 and about 10 to 14 minutes development in the tray at 20 C will lead to normally contrasted negatives.

Andreas

Old film, if it is not totally fogged, can be well used for testing lenses or the accurateness of the film plane in comparison to the ground glass plane. If the fog is low as could be the case with...

...and I ask too which negative format and which intended print format? The film choice depends on how much enlargement in the end is needed and how much grain in your print you are ready to accept. ...

Your digital vs film argument is worth thinking of. Yes, grain is cool. I like it when it begins to show in pictures 50x70 inch made from my 5x7 inch negatives. ;) I must admit I never done this...

The (ROLLEI/ADOX) ORTHO 25 is by far the finest grain sheet-film that I used. The best conventional films begin to show their grain at 5 to 6 times enlargement. The ORTHO 25 has no visible grain...

Yes I also think so. And the diffraction limit depends on the wavelength or the wavelengths of the spectrum of light that reaches the aperture or can be recorded by the film. The shorter the...

:( "D-Tec is not fully compatible with Pyro developers and may produce some fogging." says the producer´s information to the mentioned sensitizer chemical. And my method with the red light also fails...

The other important question is: Which developer do you want to use? I asked it, because here is a source of a desensitizer chemical that has to fit your developer and then should diminish the...

Which film you want to develop with this method?

I "develop by inspection" which is no big deal because I exclusively shoot with orthochromatic films at this time. With the one film (ORTHO 25) I...

At this time I usually shoot with ortho-materials for the reasons of their fine grain, sharpness and resultion capabilty. These emulsions are outstanding in that terms and to have a little increased...

There is a much simpler way to beat the "normal" diffraction limits when doing b/w: shooting with ortho- or unsensitized film or using colour filters in the direction of the blue part of the visible...

I forget to mention that did the test with a very low speed (12 ASA) and original high contrast ortho film (FO5) that I currently use. For conventional or T-grain films the Rodinal´s temperature...

Thank you, Mikew for your interesting thoughts and for telling your own method of getting your desired tonality with Rodinal.

I also found the adjacency effects very strong with Rodinal. They get...

If you would take buying used lenses into consideration, I think also the single coated lenses from these manufacturers do the job, especially, if you want to process the negatives yourself or if you...

Hello friends of self-developing b/w,

I recently read again in an old German book by J. M. Eder "Rezepte, Tabellen..." (from 1949) that Rodinal (the original formula) develops "best" at 16...

Want to load it into my 6x9 roll back (56x82mm) and than fit it to my Voiglander Bergheil 6x9 (with set of 9 lenses from 65mm to 200mm - all not coated but with hoods ).

Thats a very nice camera....

Yes it seems to be quite low... But you can find it already in old photographic encyclopedias from around 1920 if I remember that date correctly that it "works best at 16 C". What "best" does exactly...

Why do you prefer 1:150 dilition to 1:100? And why 17,5 C?

I am going to develope it in 20C, what developing time would you suggest - using 1+100 dilution?

I prefer 1:150 dilution, because when...

Sorry, I forgot to mention that I exposed the film not at 25 ASA but at about 12 ASA and the negative still seemed a little underexposed.

Hello renes,

if ADOX Ortho 25 is the same as the Ortho 25 sheet film you can order from Fotoimpex in Berlin then I have some experience with it. I developed the Ortho 25 sheet film in Rodinal (the...