COLOR prints. Btw, B&W paper is generally slower than contemporary RA4 paper.
Commercial RA4 exposure systems using RGB LED technology for exposure:
Durst Theta series (although Durst does not...
Type: Posts; User: koraks; Keyword(s):
COLOR prints. Btw, B&W paper is generally slower than contemporary RA4 paper.
Commercial RA4 exposure systems using RGB LED technology for exposure:
Durst Theta series (although Durst does not...
The other day I implemented a 4-stop ND filter simulation in my LED head because it was too damn fast. Enlargements of 35mm negative to 8x10" print size at f/8 are around 200 milliseconds without it...
At the risk of being called a miser and naysayer, I can't resist but remark that this approach will work OK for B&W, but not so well for color. I've been down that road and my conclusion is that...
They are efficient. But if you have let's say 50W of LED power, you still have to dissipate 50W. The heat has to go somewhere.
The main difference in terms of thermal management between LEDs and...
I relayed information I obtained from Fuji to the asker of the original question because I promised to follow up on this.
If I want to discuss the market of power tools in the 1990s, I'll ask you....
Ok, I was in a position to do some checking on this.
Verified. The last dye change were cyan and yellow, about 2 decades ago. All dyes in the Fuji paper & transparency lineup are identical...
An old thread, but I found it because I had a similar problem - or most likely, the very same problem. My Sekonic L-358 with the 5 degree NP Finder attached would give readings sometimes that are...
Bob, for what it's worth, I just took a decent image of a Latub and deduced the approximate height from it. I then drew something conceptually similar to the original Durst thing in 3D and printed...
Indeed. It's a product I enjoy using a lot, in both 4x5 and 8x10!
Nope, that doesn't exist.
Use a panchromatic film with a red filter instead.
To clarify why a red-only sensitive film doesn't exist: it's just not worth it marketing one (obviously). The thing...
Alright, but that brings up the question how useful it is to keep a product around that's fundamentally flawed. It's a bit like marketing a very cheap car, "but don't take it out onto the highway,...
Nitric acid will decrease pH so that's what you could use if you already have it. I've also seen acetic acid being used, but I've mostly had good experience with nitric acid for this application.
While this may explain a tiny portion of the problems with Foma 200 in 120 format, the majority of the incidents I see described & illustrated and have experienced myself have nothing to do with poor...
Well, I'm probably skeptical as well if I were to apply a very strict criterion concerning color accuracy. The imagery in the examples suggests that there is still some crossover, but it's hard to...
Check eBay. Some sellers are more attractive than others. Some still sell at decent prices.
Sorry, I meant to add to my previous post that my approach works well for single sided film, not double sided film.
I tried double sided film initially, but after a couple hundred sheets I decided I...
Roberto, you could try using a single tray for the entire process. After development, pour out the developer and pour in the stop bath. Then with stop to fix, the same procedure. That way you don't...
Wrong thread?
Anyway, search for "caffenol". Plenty of examples on Flickr etc.
Just mask out the area you don't want to be printed and wash out unexposed sensitizer?
> And as far as some of these Fuji papers being re-tweaked for automated small-roll digital printers
Small roll, big roll - it's all digital now. I'll be sure to verify with Fuji if optical...
Your experiment of your RGB enlarger vs. the Durst CMY head demonstrates that both light sources are fairly closely matched. It doesn't say anything about the suitability of a color paper to an...
I'm in the process of writing a brief blog on this, LFLarry. I'll post a link as soon as I'm done, but the conclusion is pretty much what I said above. With optical enlargement, the current FUJIFILM...
Drew, there's nothing roundabout in what the Fuji people told me yesterday. Also, the digital change has been far more fundamental than you or I suspected. I'll follow up on this but the conclusion...
I'll remember to check next time when I speak to the Fuji people, but AFAIK the following applies:
* The dyes across all FUJIFILM CA papers and RA4 transparencies (Flex, Trans) are the same. The...
I understand your frustration, and see where you're coming from given your additional explanation. I agree with you that denying the problematic nature of repairing machines from this generation is...
Jobo-made PCB's may not be available anymore. I assume they aren't. Individual components, however, will be available for the most part. The challenging bits are any program EPROMs (ATL1000) or...
Unless you're making optical RA4 prints, or have that done (at considerable cost!) in a lab, printing a color negative these days virtually always involves first scanning it. Given this, it would be...
Well, that would effectively remove any opportunity for an interesting exchange from the get go. It'll "flatten" things for sure.
I highlighted a bit on your response as it expresses the kind of subject matter you seem to be expecting when it comes to critique. These are mostly technical issues, which IMO would just as well be...
Would this benefit:
* the photographer?
* the people offering the critique?
* an onlooking audience?
Once this is clear, optimize for it.
And more flexible w.r.t. the image tone to boot! The only disadvantage is that a thiourea toner can't be used for direct toning; the print needs to be bleached. Sulfide can be used for direct toning...
I know that type of negative; I got some in a folder here somewhere, too. Generally I'm not patient enough to print through an entire Armada of silver, so I try to back it off a little ;)
John, I think I mentioned this before, but I've used instant mytol (an xtol clone) for alt. process negatives on several occasions. It must be very different to XTOL, even though it's also a...
Martin, neither of the links you posted, works.
I see you're in The Netherlands. So am I. If you happen to be in the south, feel free to drop by. I print color regularly and I don't mind sharing...
I've never seen the need for this; do you get newton rings on your contact prints? What kind of printing process(es)?
Ground glass or museum glass should work in this application. There will be...
Well, I consider myself a plain old klutz much of the time - if someone gives my a present, I'll cut myself unwrapping it. I always sport a wide range of bruises and cuts from bumping into stuff etc....
In trays, I develop only one sheet at a time. This prevents the problem you're talking about. As to the corners being so sharp they slit your nitrile gloves - I find that hard to believe, but perhaps...
The defects problem with Foma 200 is limited to 120 roll film. It doesn't occur in their 100 and 200 sheet films, which I've both used extensively (and still do). The only type of defect in these...
Why would you want to develop color film in a paper developer? Especially given the cost of large format color film?
As to the kit you linked to: it should work fine for any color RA4 paper. I...
Yes, that too, but it's not what I was referring to. I'm sorry for not being clear enough on this, but I was talking about an in-camera RA4-paper reversal process. So load RA4 paper into film holder,...