For 4x5, I usually take between 8 and 20 film holders, when I am using the 7x17 or 12x20, I take 3 film holders because of the weight and slowness the process using ULF gear.
Type: Posts; User: Gary Samson; Keyword(s):
For 4x5, I usually take between 8 and 20 film holders, when I am using the 7x17 or 12x20, I take 3 film holders because of the weight and slowness the process using ULF gear.
I strongly urge you to get a book on platinum printing, this will save you much time, frustration and money. The best publication is: Platinum & Palladium Printing, Second Edition, by Dick...
I want to second Paul Barden's recommendation of Ilford FP4+ film and Pyrocat HD or PMK Pyro developers for making in camera negatives for alternative processes such as platinum prints, kallitypes,...
I purchase a box of 4x5 Fomapan 100, 50 sheets in June of 2020. Tiny black spots on all 12 sheets I shot and processed with two developers, Pyrocat M and Rodinal. That was it for me, I will not give...
This topic doesn't really belong in the ULF thread.
Pyrocat and PMK Pyro were designed to work better with modern B&W emulsions. If you want to get the optimum quality negatives with a staining developer, I would recommend you use one of these two...
I am so sorry to learn of Will's passing, his passion for fine art photography and ULF image making was admirable and inspirational, he will be missed dearly.
Please see the attached link below. The recommended film and developer combination is Ilford FP4+ and PMK Pyro.
https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/15614798.pdf
Gary Samson
The Monalog Collective is a group of passionate fine art black and white photographers dedicated to the art and craft of traditional image making utilizing 19th and 20th century monochrome processes....
I would suggest that you take an unexposed sheet and process it to see what the fog level is like, if it is relatively clear, make some photos with it. HC110 would be a good developer for the test.
Carleton Watkins definitely gold toned his prints. His prints would not have survived this long in the fine condition that many of them are in without toning.
You can use a Ilford Hypam diluted 1:3, its economical and easy to purchase.
While I think that Ilford FP4+ is a good suggestion for expanding tones, I would not assume that all of the subjects Ohio will be photographing are caucasian with skin tones placed on zone VI. Once...
Here are my suggestions:
1. I would stay with Kodak D76 straight and rate the film at box speed.
2. Use an incident meter to measure the intensity of light falling on your subject.
3. Make sure...
The OP reported tiny white dots on the positive image and purple dots on the negative image that create the white dots in the positive image. Please see my original post.
I bought the Fomapan 100 because I read many good things about this film and wanted to test it. I processed several exposed sheets in Pyrocat M and saw the spots on the film with a loupe. I ran...
204730Are you using Fomapan 100 film? I have identified a problem with a box of this film (4x5 inch) 50 sheets, expiration date April, 2022, batch no. 021354-03, purchased from B&H. See the attached...
Here is a website for Edwards Engineered Products, they make vacuum frames.
http://www.eepjon.com
Bob, you are very welcome! As a photography educator for forty years, sharing information has been vital to helping my peers and students to achieve their artistic vision and I have benefited greatly...
Here is the link:
https://researchbank.rmit.edu.au/eserv/rmit:7850/Young.pdf
The combination that has worked out the best for me is Ilford FP4+ and PMK Pyro. Rate the film at ISO 125 and develop for 12 minutes at 72f with constant agitation. The developer should be diluted...
Hi Greg,
Ellie Young’s conclusion in her manual is that Ilford FP4+ and PMK Pyro is the best combination for salt printing following her recommended processing procedure. When I taught salt...
Hi John,
I just measured my vintage Eastman 6.5 x 8.5 inch film holder and the image area is 6 and3/16th inches by 8 and 3/16th inches. I hope this helps!
Gary
Hi Leo,
Since you want to make Ambrotype portraits with your camera, I would recommend that you think about increasing the amount of lighting for that purpose. I use 4800 watt seconds for my...
Thanks! The aperture was f11.5.
Studio portrait of Anastasia. Wisner 4x5 Technical Field Camera, 240mm f5.6 Schneider lens, Ilford HP5+ film, Pyrocat M developer.
197160
I am so sorry to learn of Bruce's passing. I used the Fred Picker video on printing for many years with my photography students, Bruce was the gracious host who gently held everything together in the...
You should be washing your film after the Fixer Remover step, did you leave it off the list of the processing steps accidentally or are you doing this? Are you processing one sheet at a time?
I strongly urge you to buy the wet-plate manuals by Osterman & Scully, John Coffer and Quinn Jacobson, they all have useful information that will guid you through the process. Coffer's manual comes...
Received my box of prints yesterday, thanks to all the participants!
Gary
Based on your description of how you exposed your negative using an orange filter, f45 and a 10 second exposure, I think you may have grossly over exposed the negative. I think the correct exposure...
I have never had a failure with Pyrocat, but I use the Pyrocat M version and mix the A and B solutions from scratch myself using distilled water and storing the solutions in wine bottles with air...
Are you sure your lens will cover the 16x20 format?
Xtol instructions suggest agitation every 30 seconds, and that would be my first recommendation to increase contrast. If this change is not sufficient, I would also increase the time by a minute or...
Hi Randy,
I'm in on the print exchange.
Gary Samson
Tim,
Do you have the book on PMK Pyro by Gordon Hutchins? Mr. Hutchings has a specific procedure for processing single negatives in a tray with PMK Pyro that works very well. If you are serious...
Do you have any experience making wet-plate images, if not, there will be a steep learning curve to pour, expose and develop a plate of this size. If you are planning to make 11x14 inch head shot...
I would suggest at least an 8x10 inch mat for 4x5 inch images.
I use 1.5 liter glass wine bottles with stoppers that allow you to create a vacuum after use. This has been a very successful way for me to keep Pyrocat M for months after mixing. I have never had...
Can you describe how the film was developed, tray, tank or deep tank with hangers?