-
Harman Direct Positive Images
I thought I'd start a new thread specifically for images exposed on the new Harman Direct Positive paper. Efke's positive paper images also welcome, of course.
I've been working with the 4x5 fiber-based version of Harman's Direct Positive paper for a few months, and also have several packs of the 8x10 that I need to work with.
Today's still-lifes were exposed under the indirect north-facing light of my back porch, using a WWII-era Anniversary Speed Graphic and 127mm Ektar lens. The first two images are with the lens wide open at f/4.7, while the last image is stopped down to f/16. With bellows extension the working apertures were f/7.5 and f/26 respectively.
I give this paper a slight preflash prior to exposure, and rate the paper at a working exposure index of 1.6. Metering was reflective using a Gossen Luna Pro F.
The paper was developed in Ilford PQ liquid diluted 1+15.
Scans of the direct prints were done in color mode to retain some of the emulsion's tone.
~Joe
Bowl (2 second exposure):
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6202/...22cdc3c3_b.jpg
Robot Rider (3 second exposure):
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6079/...4985630b_b.jpg
Gourd Birds (15 second exposure):
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6193/...59b1ab4c_b.jpg
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Last week I captured onto Harman Direct Positive FB paper several images of this Lasko fan, which I purchased at a thrift shop, to decorate my newly refurnished office.
4x5 Speed Graphic, 150mm binocular lens (from a 7x50 binocular) stopped down to 20mm aperture. Lighting was from the right side of the subject (the left side in the reversed direct positive image) through an afternoon-lit window. Preflashed, as is my usual procedure. Scanned in color mode to retain the paper's tone.
~Joe
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6191/...1a6e73c1_b.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6063/...9e79ced4_b.jpg
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Portrait under indirect north light. Harman Direct Positive FB paper in 4x5 Speed Graphic, 127mm Ektar lens. 6 second exposure. She did a great job of not moving or blinking. Scanned in B/W mode, otherwise in color the paper scans with a bit of a greenish tone.
~Joe
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6079/...5399a13a_b.jpg
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
The Harman Direct positive Paper was pre-flashed to reduce contrast and then given a camera exposure of 3 seconds at f5.6. Development was in Dektol 1+2, fix was in Hypam 1+4, and a 30 minute archival wash followed. Lighting was from a skylight in a traditionally arranged photographic studio without electricity. This photograph like all direct positive reflective images (Daguerreotypes, Ambrotypes, Tintypes for example) is mirror reversed with respect to the subject.
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Great stuff here guys.
Maris, do you have a picture of this studio?
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Maris,
Did you buy the direct positive paper in Australia?
Jon
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Tom J McDonald
Great stuff here guys.
Maris, do you have a picture of this studio?
No good pictures of the studio but lots within it. The studio I had built as part of my house. The idea was to use natural light instead of flash or tunsten, just like the 19th century all over again. Unfortunately I ran out of money and had to settle for a lower ceiling height which makes heads brighter than feet. A 1 stop soft edge ND grad filter takes care of the inequality and the studio works a treat.
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
jonreid
Maris,
Did you buy the direct positive paper in Australia?
Jon
The paper came from Harman direct after a bit of argy-bargy. Harman originally quoted their domestic UK price which I challenged as too high. Their international price is a lot lower because it does not include VAT.
The Direct Positive Paper RC44M 8x10, pk of 100 at GBP 86.21 landed in my hands at AUD$136.21 all up. Transit time was about 2 weeks.
DPP is a high contrast short scale material intolerant of exposure and processing error. My first 50 sheets went on testing and calibrating. Expensive but interesting.
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Joe, Where are you buying your paper? Chris
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
CCB
Joe, Where are you buying your paper? Chris
I purchase mine from Freestyle Photo. The first batch of 4x5's was on backorder for several months, earlier this spring, but a later order, with both 4x5 and 8x10, shipped much quicker. I think as more and more people start to use this paper the shipping will be more consistent. Best to stock up, when you do order.
~Joe
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Joe / Maris,
I've used the Efke paper in the past and still have a few packs. About the Harmon paper:
1. Is there a notch? Efke paper does not have a notch.
2. Can you tell 1 side from another (tactil) while loading in a DD?
3. I shoot 4x5 and the Efke paper size was always a little too big and I have always had a lot of difficulty loading it into DD's. Does the Harmon actually for DD's?
Regards,
Ron
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
gevalia
Joe / Maris,
I've used the Efke paper in the past and still have a few packs. About the Harmon paper:
1. Is there a notch? Efke paper does not have a notch.
2. Can you tell 1 side from another (tactil) while loading in a DD?
3. I shoot 4x5 and the Efke paper size was always a little too big and I have always had a lot of difficulty loading it into DD's. Does the Harmon actually for DD's?
Regards,
Ron
I have some of the RC paper. No notch, easily fits into all my holders, and the paper has a slight curve towards the emulsion side, so it is pretty easy to tell which side is which. There is also a different feel that is difficult to describe, but definitely discernible.
I actually thought I had gotten it backwards when my paper came out all white, but it turned out my developer had died...
Richard
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
As Richard indicated, the FB paper I work with curls toward the emulsion side. When purchased through Freestyle's website, they specifically state that the 4x5 size will fit 4x5 sheet film holders, and I've had no problems.
With the Efke "4x5" paper, I've found that there were two sizes being sold, one was a true 4x5 size that was too large to comfortably fit inside film holders (which you must have had) and the other is sized to fit inside film holders. Freestyle used to market both sizes of Efke, and you had to read carefully to figure out which to get.
~Joe
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
gevalia
Joe / Maris,
I've used the Efke paper in the past and still have a few packs. About the Harmon paper:
1. Is there a notch? Efke paper does not have a notch.
2. Can you tell 1 side from another (tactil) while loading in a DD?
3. I shoot 4x5 and the Efke paper size was always a little too big and I have always had a lot of difficulty loading it into DD's. Does the Harmon actually for DD's?
Regards,
Ron
Aside but - scratching my head trying to figure out what variant of "film holder" has initials "DD." Can't figure it out - what's a DD?
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Maris Rusis
The paper came from Harman direct after a bit of argy-bargy. Harman originally quoted their domestic UK price which I challenged as too high. Their international price is a lot lower because it does not include VAT.
The Direct Positive Paper RC44M 8x10, pk of 100 at GBP 86.21 landed in my hands at AUD$136.21 all up. Transit time was about 2 weeks.
DPP is a high contrast short scale material intolerant of exposure and processing error. My first 50 sheets went on testing and calibrating. Expensive but interesting.
Maris and Joey
Glad to have you guys here as the leaders!
I'm about to order Harman and also Ilfochrome papers and a, wondering whether or not they will need trimming to go into standard Fidelity 4x5 and 8x10 film holders. I have purchased a Jobo CPA-2 with lift for this enterprise and wondering if there are any hints you might give.
What's your process for testing and calibrating.
In this, did you alter your assumed ISO as part of the test parameters or did you use say 3 and one fixed temp. then adjust everything else?
50 sheets is a lot of material to go through. Do they sell 4x5 and 8x10 of the same lot of paper. I'm worried that if I do the calibration on 4x5 paper, the 8x10 could need to be done from the beginning again! I guess one can cut up the 8x10 to 4 sheets for this!
It does seem then that one needs to buy at least 200 sheets of the same production run or else the percentage of wastage must be high!
Do you ever pre-expose, (flash) to decrease the contrast or any such tricks?
Asher
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
DD = double darkslide
Another name for film holders
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
John T
DD = double darkslide
Another name for film holders
Interesting, never heard that before (nor does it make a lot of sense to me since the darkslide is just a part that works with the holder itself but never mind.) Funny the things you learn here. Thanks.
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Roger Cole
Aside but - scratching my head trying to figure out what variant of "film holder" has initials "DD." Can't figure it out - what's a DD?
DD stands for double dark.
You're supposed to know that it's an abbreviation of an abbreviation of the phrase "double dark-slide" and that the "S" has been omitted, presumably because the "S" key on the typewriter of the first person to use this abbreviation was stuck. And since there are two dark slides in a film holder you're also supposed to know that the first "D" means "double." It's one of those abbreviations that serves no purpose other than to hinder communication.
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Asher Kelman
Maris and Joey
Glad to have you guys here as the leaders!
I'm about to order Harman and also Ilfochrome papers and a, wondering whether or not they will need trimming to go into standard Fidelity 4x5 and 8x10 film holders. I have purchased a Jobo CPA-2 with lift for this enterprise and wondering if there are any hints you might give.
I've only worked with the Harman Direct Positive paper, ordered through Freestyle Photo's website. On their website they state whether the paper is sized for sheet film holders or not.
Quote:
What's your process for testing and calibrating.
In this, did you alter your assumed ISO as part of the test parameters or did you use say 3 and one fixed temp. then adjust everything else?
I started with an ISO of around 6, and kept the developer dilution constant (1+15 using Ilford's PQ liquid concentrate) and temperature around 68-72f. Subsequent rounds of testing brought me to rating the Harman Fiber Based glossy direct positive paper at an Exposure Index of 1.6.
I also found that developer exhaustion is something you need to watch with these direct positive papers. With paper negatives, as the developer begins to exhaust its strength, development times need to be extended, but the resulting negative density and contrast doesn't suffer as much; some folks report better control of contrast with paper negatives in partially exhausted developer, something I can corroborate. With the Harman paper, if the developer begins to exhaust then you will not get adequately dense shadow details, the shadows will instead appear to be a mottled and weak middle gray.
As for batch-to-batch consistency, I've been using the Harman 4x5 sized paper in two different batches and find little or no variance. Your exposure and processing tolerances are probably looser than the paper's manufacturing tolerances.
Quote:
Do you ever pre-expose, (flash) to decrease the contrast or any such tricks?
Asher
Pre-flashing is my standard method for all paper negative or direct positive paper media. It helps to bring out the shadow detail and control excess contrast. I found that for the Harman Direct Positive paper it required about 1/2 of the preflash time that I normally give to grade 2 paper negatives.
For using the Efke RC direct positive paper I found it required significantly longer preflash times than the Harman, and its range of exposure tolerance was very narrow, as compared to Harman's paper, such that I've essentially given up on using the Efke and now recommend Harman's direct positive fiber based glossy paper as a better product (for my use ... you mileage may vary).
I'd also say for the benefit of those who have not worked with direct positive paper, or paper negatives, that troubleshooting your initial calibration of the paper can be confusing. So for your benefit, here are some tips to keep in mind:
- Unexposed, undeveloped and fixed direct positive paper should look blank white.
- Unexposed and properly developed / fixed direct positive paper should look pure black. If you cannot get unexposed and developed paper to look absolutely zone 1 black, then your developer is either exhausted or impure. You need to be able to achieve this first before you proceed.
- Any additional exposure that you give the paper will add brightness to the image.
- Pre-flashing the paper will lighten the shadow density somewhat. You will want to arrive at an Exposure Index and pre-flash amount that, combined, produces an image with good but not excessive contrast and adequate shadow detail.
- The Harman paper is essentially sensitive to only blue and UV light. Think daylight only. So when you meter the scene, with your light meter set to your paper's ISO rating (that you've determined through testing), make sure that the meter is only seeing daylight illumination of the subject, not artificial lighting.
- The Harman paper, like other paper media, is not sensitive to reds and browns. If your subject matter predominates in those colors, you'll need to give the paper some additional exposure. How much exposure? You'll have to determine this through experimentation and testing, but a good rule of thumb is to give it one additional stop of exposure.
- Shiny metal surfaces and water will reflect much more UV light than you might otherwise think, showing up on the paper as much brighter exposure. You will need to compensate for this in your metering and/or exposure.
- Indirect daylight illumination (like from a north-facing window) provides very nice soft lighting for this paper. Under direct sunlight the images can present a harsh contrast, even with pre-flashing, so keep that in mind, especially for portraits.
~Joe
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Here are examples of developer tests using the Harman direct positive paper.
The first set has two test strips. The top one, medium gray, was unexposed paper developed using used paper developer that otherwise produces nice paper negatives using grade 2 paper and an extended development. As you can see, even with an extended development time, the paper would not get any darker than medium gray.
The second strip was after the addition of some makeup liquid concentrate into the used developer batch. The result is a darker shade of gray, but still mottled and uneven development.
The third test strip is a pure black tone, achieved by using fresh paper developer. It seems pretty clear that the Harman paper requires fresh developer for each session. It will give you much more consistent results.
~Joe
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Okay, so what about using the Harman Direct Positive paper in pinhole cameras? Well, because of its slow sensitivity (my calibrations show an Exposure Index of 1.6), even in direct sunny bright conditions you'll have long exposure times, depending of course upon your pinhole camera's focal ratio.
The first image attached is a daylight scene of the old Aztec Motel sign on Central Avenue in Albuquerque, after they recently tore down the building. Sunny conditions, mid-morning light. The exposure time was over a minute, as I recall. Having a wide angle camera that produces some corner darkening, as in this image, helps the image, I think.
The second image posted is a self portrait under bright daylight conditions but with some high, thin clouds that softened the light somewhat. As a result of the paper's slow speed, the diminished light and the pinhole camera's large focal ratio, the exposure time was around 7 minutes.
So, although using the Harman direct positive paper in pinhole cameras is entirely possible, and results in good images (see the Aztec Motel sign), it can quickly become impractical when the light starts to dim.
~Joe
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
As might be suspected however, double dark slide (dds) is distinguished from the single dark slide (sds) of the past.
http://www.earlyphotography.co.uk/site/entry_B13-2.html
and here
http://www.earlyphotography.co.uk/site/entry_B26-1.html
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Maris Rusis
More on "Old Time Photographer" illustrating the desperate measures invoked to get decent photographs out of Harman Direct Positive Paper.
There is very little picture generating technology involved in "Old-time Photographer" but there is a lot of sneaky subject management and studio wrangling hidden in the back story.
The subject is me in costume as a tatterdemallion photographer. Because Harman Direct Positive is a very short scale material I dressed in grey to avoid empty shadows and hard highlights. Direct Positive is severely orthochromatic so coloured clothing can deliver bad tonal response surprises. Grey garb sidesteps the problem. The tatty T-shirt with the white pattern came out well. I guess the result is "shabby chic" or the next level down from that.
The black beret prevents "chrome dome" glare. The "granny spectacles" are a contrivance to put metallic glints near the eyes. The mid-grey studio backdrop is on the back wall but my other backdrop, a brilliant white, is actually on the studio floor to kick light up and keep luminance ratios under some control.
The main props, camera and tripod, were chosen for the bright metal-work accents. These blow out to featureless white but the areas are small, the eye accepts them, and they liven up the picture.
Exposure was determined by trial and error starting at an assumption of EI = 6. I would make an exposure, walk to the darkroom, and process immediately, and then re-shoot. Development goes to completion in a couple of minutes so I know what adjustments to make for the next shot.
Pre-flashing is the key to taming this recalcitrant material.
I use one of my 4x5 enlargers set to 950mm high, 150mm lens at f16, 150 watt bulb in the lamphouse and 0.8 seconds set on the timer. This delivers an actual pre-flash exposure of about 4 Lux.seconds (if my luxmeter is accurate). Your set-up will surely vary from this but trial and error and persistence always win. After the paper is loaded into the 8x10 holders (dim red safelight) the holder is centred under the "pre-flash" enlarger, the dark-slide pulled, and the 0.8 second blink is given. With the dark-slide back in, the holder is carried up into the studio for trial exposure in the camera.
Pre-flash is a critical quantity. I find results at 0.7 seconds and 0.9 seconds are solidly different from 0.8 seconds. A confounding factor is that a change in pre-flash seems to cause a change in the the effective speed of Direct Positive. The only way through this nest of variables is continued experiment. My first 50 sheets of this expensive material went on exposure and pre-flash tests! Exposure is critical. Even +/- 1/3 stop makes an obvious difference. I've had all my shutters electronically timed (to the third decimal place) and all lens apertures calibrated to avoid bad surprises.
A nasty consequence of pre-flashing is the loss of a proper black tone. The picture edge in "Old-time Photographer" didn't get any pre-flash and it shows a good black but nothing in the picture area actually matches it. That's the trade-off: control contrast but kill black. A partial compensation comes from using fresh, strong paper developer. I actually warm the Dektol 1+2 to get maximum activity. Development goes to completion in about two minutes. Direct Positive is demanding of fixer. I use fresh Hypam 1+4 warmed a bit for 5 minutes.
The orthochromatic response of Direct Positive delivers vile (harsh, ugly, gritty) skin tones but I find that a 2 stop orange filter improves things a lot. The downside is that the effective EI is down to approximately 0.6. Very slow indeed!
Mysteries still unexplored include the effect of illuminants of different colour temperatures. I suspect daylight is not like flash is not like hot tungsten. And I haven't tried to work out the reciprocity characteristics of Direct Positive. It may be that Direct Positive actually gets "faster" with extended exposure times. I just don't know.
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Maris,
Thanks for all of that.
What is that background material made of?
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Wow, makes me wonder what on earth makes the stuff worth all this?
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Roger,
I was thinking the same thing, then I remembered how long I struggled with APHS Ortho and Kodak Imagelink films. Sometimes a challenge is enough.
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Jay DeFehr
Roger,
I was thinking the same thing, then I remembered how long I struggled with APHS Ortho and Kodak Imagelink films. Sometimes a challenge is enough.
Good point. People could ask us the same thing about LF when MF or even digital is good enough for 90% plus of our actual uses (or at least, for mine, I just like shooting LF.)
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Tom J McDonald
Maris,
Thanks for all of that.
What is that background material made of?
7 foot wide white cotton sheeting dyed to approximately 18% grey, The dye job wasn't exactly even but I'm not going to redo it. You should have seen the mess involved in trying to boil and mordant more than a hundred square feet of fabric!
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Roger Cole
Wow, makes me wonder what on earth makes the stuff worth all this?
Harman Direct Positive Paper offers a rare opportunity to display camera-original material as a final product.
In aesthetic terms it represents the shortest possible distance between subject and photograph and has a special power and magic because of that. There are philosophical implications about photographic truth, indexicality, absence of manipulation, credibility and trust in the image, and so on. That's going to be the basis of my spiel when (if) I get enough DPP photographs together to mount a gallery scale exhibition.
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Ok this photo has me confused, I hope I am not crazy here.
But Why isn't the shutter open if this is a self portrait into a mirror?
[QUOTE=Maris Rusis;774485]More on "Old Time Photographer" illustrating the desperate measures invoked to get decent photographs out of Harman Direct Positive Paper.
There is very little picture generating technology involved in "Old-time Photographer" but there is a lot of sneaky subject management and studio wrangling hidden in the back story.
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Its very nice in pinhole cameras.
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Maris Rusis
Harman Direct Positive Paper offers a rare opportunity to display camera-original material as a final product.
In aesthetic terms it represents the shortest possible distance between subject and photograph and has a special power and magic because of that. There are philosophical implications about photographic truth, indexicality, absence of manipulation, credibility and trust in the image, and so on. That's going to be the basis of my spiel when (if) I get enough DPP photographs together to mount a gallery scale exhibition.
Maris, I'm fascinated by your thesis, and look forward to reading more. I appreciate the Harman paper also because it presents an in-camera original photograph with the qualities of a fiber based, double-weight, "gallery quality" print. It's slow photographic speed and one-of-a-kind positive image remind me a lot of wet plate collodion in that respect.
~Joe
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
bob carnie
Ok this photo has me confused, I hope I am not crazy here.
But Why isn't the shutter open if this is a self portrait into a mirror?
It's not a mirror portrait, just a studio shot from a Tachihara 810HD 8x10 triple extension field view camera. The only extra gadget involved is an Auto-Knips self timer attached to the cable release of the Fujinon-W 300/5.6 lens on the 8x10 Tachi. The "Old Time Photographer" is posing with a 4x5 Tachihara 45GF on a Manfrotto 390 tripod for "stylish" effect.
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
thanks, I thought I was losing it for a second.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Maris Rusis
It's not a mirror portrait, just a studio shot from a Tachihara 810HD 8x10 triple extension field view camera. The only extra gadget involved is an Auto-Knips self timer attached to the cable release of the Fujinon-W 300/5.6 lens on the 8x10 Tachi. The "Old Time Photographer" is posing with a 4x5 Tachihara 45GF on a Manfrotto 390 tripod for "stylish" effect.
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
I guess they're making the paper for their new camera.
Quote:
Ilford Photo launches 5x4in pinhole camera
A pinhole camera that can record images on 5x4in positive paper will go on sale next month, the owner of the Ilford film brand has confirmed.
The British-made Harman Titan, a prototype of which was shown at the Focus on Imaging show six months ago, will cost £150.
http://www.amateurphotographer.co.uk...ws_309687.html
http://www.bjp-online.com/british-jo...pinhole-camera
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
CantikFotos
Notice how the film is loaded? Yep, just like a Hostilux!
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by
JoeV
Here are examples of developer tests using the Harman direct positive paper.
The first set has two test strips. The top one, medium gray, was unexposed paper developed using used paper developer that otherwise produces nice paper negatives using grade 2 paper and an extended development. As you can see, even with an extended development time, the paper would not get any darker than medium gray.
The second strip was after the addition of some makeup liquid concentrate into the used developer batch. The result is a darker shade of gray, but still mottled and uneven development.
The third test strip is a pure black tone, achieved by using fresh paper developer. It seems pretty clear that the Harman paper requires fresh developer for each session. It will give you much more consistent results.
~Joe
I've noticed EXACTLY the SAME thing when I was doing direct positives using regular paper--if I didn't use FRESH developer it didn't get black enough....oh well..I thought that the dir positive paper would save me trouble in that way, but I guess NOT...same trouble...of course you don't have to bleach the dir positive stuff......so that's still a plus....
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
A brief session today in bright sunlight, just before noon local sun time. 4x5 Anniversary Speed Graphic with Ektar 127mm lens at F/8. Preflashed Harman direct positive FB paper, exposures 2 and 4 seconds respectively.
~Joe
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6152/...b8e514a9_b.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6153/...40c4c34a_b.jpg
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
JoeV, I think the second one is better.
Tom.
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
JoeV, if they were taken at noon, the shadows looks strange to me. Are you sure they aren't posted upside down?
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
I corrected the orientation of the two images posted above, as per Jimi's suggestion. Not sure why I didn't notice it earlier, but there you go. As a result, the Flickr links are broken, so I'm reposting the newly oriented images in this reply. Couldn't edit my original post.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
A brief session today in bright sunlight, just before noon local sun time. 4x5 Anniversary Speed Graphic with Ektar 127mm lens at F/8. Preflashed Harman direct positive FB paper, exposures 2 and 4 seconds respectively.
~Joe
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6152/...12a7e04b_b.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6153/...c83fea2c_b.jpg
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Nambe ware bowl with decorative gourd. Harman Direct Positive fiber paper in handmade 8"x10" nested box camera using a 265mm single-element meniscus lens stopped down to 9mm aperture, 4.5 minute exposure under indirect north daylight.
Paper was preflashed and developed with Ilford PQ liquid concentrate diluted 1+15.
~Joe
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6160/...55ca4cc1_b.jpg
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Bottles, Harman Direct Positive fiber paper in handmade 8"x10" nested box camera using a 265mm single-element meniscus lens stopped down to 9mm aperture, 7 minute exposure under indirect north daylight.
Paper preflashed, developed in Ilford PQ liquid concentrate diluted 1+15.
~Joe
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6167/...05c22f17_b.jpg
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Earlier this week I took a stroll down along Central Avenue, the old Route 66, in Albuquerque, equipped with 4x5 Anniversary Speed Graphic, Ektar 127mm lens and film holders loaded with preflashed Harman Direct Positive fiber paper. Here are some results. Scans from direct positives, spotted in PS.
~Joe
Zia Motor Lodge:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7031/6...40baa520_b.jpg
(Exposure: 2 seconds at F/22)
Fence:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7035/6...79a783f1_b.jpg
(Exposure: 2 seconds at F/22)
Alley Door:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7171/6...e2f52135_b.jpg
(Exposure: 2 seconds at F/22)
Shopping Cart:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7011/6...bfebb154_b.jpg
(Exposure: 3 seconds at F/11)
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
And one more:
Flying Star Cafe:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7029/6...da8da6ef_b.jpg
(Exposure: 2 seconds at F/22)
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
I have been playing with 'In-camera Monotypes' for a few years now. I have just received two boxes of the direct positive paper and am very excited about it.
Thank you for the pre-testing that you were able to provide Joe. It is very valuable.
We will be using this material as well as regular photographic paper for my daughter's science fair project which will deal with pinhole cameras.
Regarding the pre-flash...is there some scientific way to explain and measure how it decreases contrast? We can do step-wedges to show that it actually *does* decrease contrast, but do we know how and why it works?
This might be that grey area that makes photography more 'art' than 'science', which I'm OK with BTW...
When we get her project done we'll be sure to post a link.
Thanks again!
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
@Michael;
There's a bit of science with preflashing. As I understand it, the various exposure stops in the zone system are logarithmic, representing a doubling or halving of the previous or subsequent zone's exposure. The idea of preflashing is to give the paper an additional exposure which, when added to the scene's exposure, increases the exposure of the shadow detail.
Now, the reason why this preflash exposure doesn't also significantly increase the exposure of the highlights can be seen from a simple examination of the various zones. Let's say a preflash exposure raises the shadow detail from zone II to zone III. Between zone III and zone VIII (peak whites) there are five zones of exposure. The amount of preflash exposure added to the shadows will increase the highlight exposure by 1/(2^5), or 1/32 of a stop.
The net effect in this hypothetical example is that a preflash increased the shadow exposure by one whole stop (from zone II to zone III), but only increased the highlight exposure by 1/32 of a stop. This happens because the zonal exposure scale is logarithmic. The preflash exposure is biased toward affecting the shadows more than the highlights. You'd hardly notice the extra 1/32 of a stop exposure to the highlights; thus, the effect is to reduce contrast overall.
I hope this explanation helps with your daughter's science project. Keep us informed of her progress, I'd be interested in how it turns out.
~Joe
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Sweet info Joe. Awesome.
Then that would explain how the pre-flash works in the opposite direction when using traditional printing paper to add exposure to the shadows on the negative and toning 'down' the highlights? Then the opposite is true for making the 'positive', we pre-flash to add density to the shadow areas there as well correct?
This is making my head hurt...thanks for doing all the hard work.
-
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
Reciprocity failure is the first part of my daughters project. Color sensitivity is the second.
I don't anticipate any problems with loading it into an 8x10 holder. It's never been an issue in the past with any other of Ilford's 8x10 paper that I've shot in-camera.
-
2 Attachment(s)
Re: Harman Direct Positive Images
First attempts with unflashed Harman Direct Positive paper rated 3 Iso, in fact it is 1,5 Iso. Next time...For portraits also please use orange filter which I didnt:(
Excuse me because of dust all over, dont have a time to remove.
Attachment 75054
Attachment 75055
Sinar P 8x10, Rodenstock Sironar 300mm f5.6 wide open, homongous amount of flash light, developed in Ilford Multigrade 1+9, fixed in Ilford Rapid Fix 1+4.
More tests to do.