Contact printing with Lodima
Hi,
Can I get some sage advice please ... I'm wanting to contact print without an enlarger. I believe Lodima is a very good paper for this. Photo Formulary sells a specific developer for the Lodima paper. I have TF5 and am wondering if this is the right fixer for the paper. If there is simething better please advise.
There is a datasheet somewhere (I just saw it ! But do you think I can find it as I write this post ?) that says "Do not use a Rapid fixer with Lodima" ... and TF5 is a rapid fixer. Perhaps it meant a rapid acidic fixer ?
I plan to develop in a Expert 3005 8x10 sheets or smaller.
Rgds,
Steve
Re: Contact printing with Lodima
Both Lodima and Fomalux are silver chloride papers suitable for contact printing. I've used Ansco PF 130 developer and alkaline fixers (TF4 & 5) with both. For Lodima info, would suggest checking out the AZO Forum that Michael Smith & Paula Chamlee host.
Re: Contact printing with Lodima
Lodima was developed with Michael Smith and Paula Chamlee, who are advocates of Amidol. I'd give amidol a try.
Mike
Re: Contact printing with Lodima
Thanks guys,
I'm still trying to sort my way through the site mentioned. I don't see any 'howtos' as I might expect. THe 'writings' section seems to not be as updated as it could be.
All good.
Re: Contact printing with Lodima
Hi Steve,
I am contact printing using Lodima 2 and 3 with a bulb hanging over a desk attached to a timer, developing in Photographers Formulary PF-130 and fixing in Photographers Formulary TF-5 for 60 seconds. It does not require any specific developer and all should typically work fine. Just get to work and enjoy printing!
Rick
Re: Contact printing with Lodima
Thanks for the spank Rick !
Re: Contact printing with Lodima
Steve, I use TF5 & have used TF4. it is an alkaline fixer. I've also used Amidol , Ansco 130 / & the old Neutol WA with good results. You may not see 'updates' in the 'howtwos' since M & P use Amidol & have streamlined their working method over years with stunning results. You will however find lots of info if you google Lodima / Azo/ etc. I also use a lightbulb hanging next two 2 enlargers... the contact prints with Azo or Lodima do give jaw-dropping results.
Re: Contact printing with Lodima
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Greg Y
Steve, I use TF5 & have used TF4. it is an alkaline fixer. I've also used Amidol , Ansco 130 / & the old Neutol WA with good results. You may not see 'updates' in the 'howtwos' since M & P use Amidol & have streamlined their working method over years with stunning results. You will however find lots of info if you google Lodima / Azo/ etc. I also use a lightbulb hanging next two 2 enlargers... the contact prints with Azo or Lodima do give jaw-dropping results.
Ditto! I've used TF5 with both Azo and Lodima for 3+ years. Watch the capacity and you'll be fine.
Re: Contact printing with Lodima
Thanks guys,
On the M & P website there is a page which has some exposure details for Azo. I've just purchased the Lodima and I'm going to go for a 150W halogen worklight to hang from the shed roof. The website mentions a 300W bulb for 10 to 30 secs. I reckon a 150W halogen is a similar such device. It'll be about a metre or 1.5 metres from the contact printer itself for around the same time.
I also see that I should develop for around 30 secs in Amidol with agitation and then put the print into a water bath without agitation. I've ordered grade 3 I believe to do this method in particular as I'm using Pyrocat HD FP4 and the negatives are not as contrasty as with other combinations.
Cheers,
Re: Contact printing with Lodima
A few years back there was some contaminated Amidol that had been imported from China. Prints made with this developer would show stains. I had this problem with a PF kit. I'm wondering what kind of luck people have had more recently.
Steve, as I understand it, M&P use an outdated and somewhat fogged film (Kodak Super XX). This means that their negatives are more dense than most people make, requiring more exposure. Don't be surprised if you end up needing much less exposure than M&P.
I hope this helps.
Chuck