Is there a FAQ for printing digital scans here? (to send out I mean)

Hi guys,
Looking for resources on printing. I'd like to get some prints made but not the typical RC paper type stuff. Anyone send digital files to be printed somewhere? Looking for decent paper. Also, looking for a FAQ on how to set up my negs for one.

Besides large format scans, looking to get decent prints from my smaller format stuff too.

I usually just scan but would love to get some prints made ranging from small 4x5/5x7 image size on 8x10 paper up to 16x20 paper.

spam reported (not OP).

ericantonio, great question and I will be following this thread.

I have done a small amount of printing. This means third party printers, using my digital files from scanned negatives.

A rough overview of my workflow for this:

- scan at max useable resolution for your film + scanner + postprocessing system
- postprocess as normal (de-dust, color, tone, crop, etc.)
- decide what size the print will be
- resize according to the necessary number of pixels at 300dpi that are needed to achieve the print size. I have read that 300 dpi is native, or near native, resolution for Epson printers, so I use this and it works so far. I have not done testing to know if another resolution gives better results.
- sharpen (or not)
- export to .tiff
- send to printer via whatever means are convenient (USB stick, ftp transfer, etc.)

Almost each step is up for debate and subjective evaluation. This has worked for me, for finished client images. Printing hardcopy images is the least developed part of my workflow, so clearly I have much that I need, and want, to learn.

One observation I have made is that it seems a printed image is darker, or lower in value, than an image on a computer display/monitor. Some knowledge through experience is needed here to judge the on-screen appearance and understand how it will be realized in a print. "Soft proofing" may be a part of the on-screen to print visualization, but is outside of my experience.

I tried sending out, and didn't like the lack of immediacy and control, so when printers got cheap, I bought one. Great decision!

I use a Canon Pixma Pro-100 printer and Hahnemuhle Photo Rag Pearl paper. It's one of the thickest digital photo papers, feels like the real thing but heavier, and has a beautiful vintage-like surface. All things considered, the printer is not particularly expensive, and prints up to 13x19. The printer does a great job with B&W, too. When it was first introduced, Canon had rebate deals that made the printer virtually free, so I bought two! I don't know if they still run that sale once in a while, but it was a good one.

The nice thing about doing your own printing is that you can run small test prints (I use about 4x5) until you get the print you want (I use curves in Photoshop to push the tones around until I get what I want), then immediately scale up to full size and make the same print large, right the first time (try that with a darkroom in silver!)

One tip I figured out: when the print comes out of the printer it has what seems to be a very fragile surface that marks easily. After the print has dried down a while I wipe the print down with odorless paint thinner and a paper towel. The fragile surface appears to be overspray--a dusting on the surface--and once that has been wiped off, the surface is durable and stable.

To the OP many labs world wide have Bulk Printing options , my lab www.alternativephotoservices.com is not unlike many. We have a Press and Go service where you can print footage of paper at different price points per foot based on the paper you require.

Things to be aware of, most labs are very well balanced with their profiles and if there is discrepancies it usually is an issue at the front end not the printing end.

At our Lab we print in 16 bit or 8 bit mode.... we use Adobe 1998 - flatten tiff. Usually you should size to 300 if that is our resolution printing number, and you should take advantage of preparing multiple files within a longer canvas.

Things that will help you ... A very good understanding of the Info Palette and how the numbers will never lie.which means certain papers clip at certain points and if you are above a certain number in your L values for example your highlights will burn out or if you are below a certain L value for your shadows you will start blocking up the shadows.

These numbers are the same on any computer and this information Levels the Playing field for the cursed ( my monitor is better than your monitor)

Many of my clients take full advantage of this system of printing, and frankly if you are good at photoshop and you have a good lab near you it would be silly to buy a big printer, Unless of course you are like Jim Becia who runs tons of paper through his machine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chassis

ericantonio, great question and I will be following this thread.

I have done a small amount of printing. This means third party printers, using my digital files from scanned negatives.

A rough overview of my workflow for this:

- scan at max useable resolution for your film + scanner + postprocessing system
- postprocess as normal (de-dust, color, tone, crop, etc.)
- decide what size the print will be
- resize according to the necessary number of pixels at 300dpi that are needed to achieve the print size. I have read that 300 dpi is native, or near native, resolution for Epson printers, so I use this and it works so far. I have not done testing to know if another resolution gives better results.
- sharpen (or not)
- export to .tiff
- send to printer via whatever means are convenient (USB stick, ftp transfer, etc.)

Almost each step is up for debate and subjective evaluation. This has worked for me, for finished client images. Printing hardcopy images is the least developed part of my workflow, so clearly I have much that I need, and want, to learn.

One observation I have made is that it seems a printed image is darker, or lower in value, than an image on a computer display/monitor. Some knowledge through experience is needed here to judge the on-screen appearance and understand how it will be realized in a print. "Soft proofing" may be a part of the on-screen to print visualization, but is outside of my experience.

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These are REALLY GREAT TIPS!
I wouldn't think 300dp is enough. I don't really know much about the digital printing world.

I agree that prints look a little darker. I know someone who printed on Hahnemuhle paper for me and it looked to be about at least 1/2 stop darker than I saw it on my computer (un calibrated that is). But man, I will keep on looking at this.

Any online-printers you can recommend to have it done on good paper?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mdarnton

I tried sending out, and didn't like the lack of immediacy and control, so when printers got cheap, I bought one. Great decision!

I use a Canon Pixma Pro-100 printer and Hahnemuhle Photo Rag Pearl paper. It's one of the thickest digital photo papers, feels like the real thing but heavier, and has a beautiful vintage-like surface. All things considered, the printer is not particularly expensive, and prints up to 13x19. The printer does a great job with B&W, too. When it was first introduced, Canon had rebate deals that made the printer virtually free, so I bought two! I don't know if they still run that sale once in a while, but it was a good one.

The nice thing about doing your own printing is that you can run small test prints (I use about 4x5) until you get the print you want (I use curves in Photoshop to push the tones around until I get what I want), then immediately scale up to full size and make the same print large, right the first time (try that with a darkroom in silver!)

One tip I figured out: when the print comes out of the printer it has what seems to be a very fragile surface that marks easily. After the print has dried down a while I wipe the print down with odorless paint thinner and a paper towel. The fragile surface appears to be overspray--a dusting on the surface--and once that has been wiped off, the surface is durable and stable.

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Interesting. I will take a look at this. I don't think I'm equipped in space for a printer but I've seen great results with cone printing. Do you have dedicated B&W ink with your printer?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bob carnie

To the OP many labs world wide have Bulk Printing options , my lab www.alternativephotoservices.com is not unlike many. We have a Press and Go service where you can print footage of paper at different price points per foot based on the paper you require.

Things to be aware of, most labs are very well balanced with their profiles and if there is discrepancies it usually is an issue at the front end not the printing end.

At our Lab we print in 16 bit or 8 bit mode.... we use Adobe 1998 - flatten tiff. Usually you should size to 300 if that is our resolution printing number, and you should take advantage of preparing multiple files within a longer canvas.

Things that will help you ... A very good understanding of the Info Palette and how the numbers will never lie.which means certain papers clip at certain points and if you are above a certain number in your L values for example your highlights will burn out or if you are below a certain L value for your shadows you will start blocking up the shadows.

These numbers are the same on any computer and this information Levels the Playing field for the cursed ( my monitor is better than your monitor)

Many of my clients take full advantage of this system of printing, and frankly if you are good at photoshop and you have a good lab near you it would be silly to buy a big printer, Unless of course you are like Jim Becia who runs tons of paper through his machine.

---

Wow, lots of information on this reply. Thank you so much. I need to research almost each sentence you wrote! :)

I agree that printers usually have their equipment calibrated. I think first step for me, before printing, is to see if I can calibrate my monitor and to get more proficient digital processing of my scans.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ericantonio

Wow, lots of information on this reply. Thank you so much. I need to research almost each sentence you wrote! :)

I agree that printers usually have their equipment calibrated. I think first step for me, before printing, is to see if I can calibrate my monitor and to get more proficient digital processing of my scans.

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Calibrating Monitors is one step but unless you understand how the numbers work you are a bit floating in space as how would one expect monitors brightness, contrast and colour values to match.