Time/Dil. for rotary processing 4x5 APX 100 in HC110/DD-X

I've got a couple of boxes of APX 100 stashed in the fridge and a beautiful space to shoot tomorrow.

I generally use HP5+ with HC110 @ 1:45 in my processor. However, I'd like to get some dilutions/starting times for the APX with HC110 and DD-X.

The Massive Dev. Chart has APX 100 @ 80 in HC110 for 7 min in a rotary--I wonder if that is with a pre-rinse or not--I use a 5 min. one usually.

Also, tell me if you prefer either of these developers over the other, I've just recently picked up the DD-X for use with Delta 3200 and don't know it too well.

Sorry for the long winded post, spent a couple hours in the dojo today and I'm wiped!

Hello Jon. I use the Jobo Ex. Drum. I always start off my development of Delta with a 3/5 minute pre wash at 20 Deg. C. with constant rotation. When drained off I load the drum with developer (ID 11, D 76 or Patterson Aclux 2 one shot Dil. 1/9) and start the clock for development. Times vary, but it is usually around the 9/10mins. I am unable to help with the specified developing times quoted by you as I have never used those developers. Hope I have been of some use.

Jon:

The main purpose of pre wash is to remove the antihalation layer which is on the back side of the film. Pre wash has hardly anything to do with the developing time it self, it only slows down the initial penetration of developer in to the emulsion since now the emulsion is wet and hence denser. Some films have to be pre washed however, like with the Ilfords (or the Maco infrared) it is a MUST or you will wash away your shadows in the final wash stage thinking you haven’t exposed your film enough, very strange. With the Tmax films you don’t have this problem, when pouring the pre wash water out of the tank you hardly see any change in the color of water but it is easier to make pre washing a habit with all films.

By the way I also have 10 rolls of 120 APX 100 in my fridge and will soon expose them so I’ll wait to hear about your results.

Cheers

Hi Ramin,

Actually, a prewash/lack of prewash will change your times in a N+1/N-1 range. And, I've had streaking when I didn't use one, so it is much more important than to simply remove the AH backing. In my testing, it helped give even development.

>Some films have to be pre washed however, like with the Ilfords (or the Maco infrared) it is a MUST or you will wash away your shadows in the final wash stage thinking you haven’t exposed your film enough, very strange

Hmmm, I don't have any idea what you mean here...