Originally Posted by
Pere Casals
+2.3 Ev may be risky...
First is that mechanical shutters are not exact with factory tolerance of +/-30%. This means that 1/30 can be 1/20 or 1/40 and this is a full stop, this is in a brand new shutter.
So to shot LF slides first is checking shutters with a shutter tester.
For metering, let me suggest a "calibration test", then:
1) Load a "modern" SLR (Nikon F80, F5) with a roll of the slide you are to use. Select spot meter.
2) Find a contrasty scene, select a base exposure. Use SLR spot meter (and the Sekonik) and anotate what over/under exposure you have in each area of your scene: Clouds sky, water, rocks, forest, skin. I do that with smartphone or tablet, I take a shot of the scene wioth it and I edit it with and draw a symbols (points slashes) on the image to indicate what over/under exposure had every area.
3) Then make a bracketing (anotate what shot number is what frame of the bracketing), say from -3 to +3 stops, this is 7 shots for each scene. So with a single 35mm roll you may test 5 scenes.
4) Then knowing the under/over exposure of every area (base + bracketing) you will see how different subjects (sky, water, forest ) look at every level of under/overexposure.
IMHO It is a (painful) crime to not expose well an slide, slides have to be nailed, so maximum care sholuld be taking. Imagine a burnt 8x10 velvia... painful.
Of course graded ND, Pol, etc may be needed with velvia to not burn the sky, but you should test on your own to learn what is +2EV or +3EV with Sky or Clouds. Or how your scanner reads shadows...
Regards