Pyrocat HD, FP4 and APX 100

I have two set of negatives (APX 100 and FP4) I would like to develop them using Pyrocat- HD with a HP Combi tank. According to your experiences could you please provide me a starting developing time for this kind of agitation (dip and dunk) for N-2, N-1, N, N+1, N+2. It is better to have plain water stop bath a weak acetic acid solution. At which concentration and for how long?

P.s. the APX 100 negatives are valuable and I am very afraid to spoil them since APX is discontinued. They have been all exposed at 64 ISO (I made a mistake!).

Thanks to all, folks

Greetings Bruno,

I can only offer my experience with PyrocatHD and APX: it's a very poor combination, due to significant loss of film speed. I process 4x5 using a Jobo tank, with APX I find I get an EI of 32 - a significant loss for Pyrocat. I know this is contrary to Sandy King's asertions that Pyrocat yields full speed. I certainly haven't done sensitrometric testing, but nonetheless metering shadows on zone III and expecting some detail, I need to rate APX at 32. If I expose this way the resulting negatives and prints are beautiful.

WRT FP4+ that's a great combination and with constant agitation I get full film speed. N = 6:30, N+1 = 7:30 & N+2 = 8:45 @ 24C 1:1:100. You might have to increase these times a bit with less agitation in a Combi Tank and certainly if you decrease the temp to 20C. Most of my images require + development, so I really don't have good data to offer for N-, or N-2.

I use a plain water stop bath, followed by TF-4 fixer. During the wash I soak the film for 3:00 in a solution of sodium sulfite (1 teaspoon/liter) with constant agitation.

You really need to test this stuff yourself as YMMV. Good luck!

Regards, Pete

Additionally, you can find more info on Pyrocat on the Unblinkingeye.com site: http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Pyrocat/pyrocat.html

Regards, Pete

For fixing you can use either an acid or alkaline fixer. If you use an alkaline fix such as TF-3 or TF-4, just use a water stop. I use both acid (ilfordstop)and non-acid fixers (TF-3) with pyrocat and there appears to be no affect on stain with the acid fixer. Only benefit with alkaline fixer is you don't have to use a HCA. Sorry, I can't help you with developing times with those films.

If the pix are important, it's best not to try out a new process on them. Why not shoot some "dummy" images and go through one complete cycle - You'll be less worried.

Seeing as you have been warned off Pyrocat HD...

I develop APX100 4x5 in W2D2+ at an E.I. of 80. 9 minutes @ 68deg. I use a home made inversion tank with tubes. Standard 50% agitation. (15 seconds agitation, 15 seconds rest)

Water stop and TF-4 fix. Beautiful negatives.

Just another pyro option for you to consider.

tim in san jose

I'm a bit surprised here, as I find that APX100 in Pyrocat-HD is a beautiful combination! Since I develop by inspection I can't give any times, however... As far as I can remember the last one was developed for 1 1/2 "Gymnopedie" (Satie on my CD player), but my temperature control is very sloppy when DBI'ing.

My alternative developer is FX-2, stand development for 1 hr in half-strength developer. That's about the only one I time ;)

Thank for your replies, folks.

Here are my comments:

APX 100 is discontinued and I haven't any box left. The shoot are very nice and the mostly need a n-1, n-2 development. I have already develop the in D-76 and negative are pretty good ... now I would like to try "squeezing the lemon" but not too much :-) !

I have read on unblinkeye all Sand wrote, but I haven't undersood how I can use his data. I think he use a Jobo whereas I am using a dip and dunk procedure @ 20 °C with continuous agitation for the first minute and then each 60 sec. In your opinion which starting time should I use?

I am using 1:1:100. If I have to do N+1 or N+2 it would be better to use 1:2:100? and how?

I am also interested in your expirences with HP5 and Tri-X

Many thanks again.

Bruno