Re: Mounting Large Inkjet Prints
Cold mounting can be either done in a modern way using high-tack adhesive foils, or done much more affordably the old-fashioned way wet mounting. Either system is an acquired skill with the potential for something going terribly wrong, so best consigned to a shop with the proper skills and equipment. Large drymount projects can be done sectionally in a heated press, but a test should always be done with a scrap of the same kind of inkjet medium in advance. There is no guarantee that all kinds of ink and paper are equally tolerant of heat. Face mounting is even trickier.
Re: Mounting Large Inkjet Prints
Brian - the cold tissue we use is optically clear and ph nuetral FWIW I would consider it as archival as any tissue for heat, I use both and believe neither is better on this regard.
Yes a face mount does require a super gloss, we use flex or metallic Lambda Prints and now we are being referred to a metallic inkjet that is being touted as wonderful for face to plexi.
Most of the other inkjet papers and as well luster lambda prints will give you air gaps which are noticable in the shadow areas. ** don't ask me how I know this**
This face tissue will IMHO out last any inkjet print . But time will tell so I will not put a stamp of approval on this statement.
Early mid 90's I put a cibachrome mural show in the Smithsonian, and for that we used a optically clear silicone to face mount the print to cast plexi and then we backed it with a second face print, therefore you could walk around the whole thing as they were hung from the ceiling. The plexi was bigger than the prints, the edges were sanded and then torched and the plexi melted together , wicked.
This worked very well , the silicone pushed any dirt out , I have not done this since and would not consider it as I do not have the same techs and it really is a messy process. Done right spectacular, wrong you lose your shirt.
As you can imagine each piece was very expensive , but considering where it was to hang the photographer felt it was worth it.
We just got back about 10 frames where we did all corner mounts, the prints have dropped and the client was really pissed, over 10 years ago, basically we charged
to re hinge them back in place. No damage to the prints and I do believe he showed these pieces in unkind humidity or heat conditions for this to happen.
So we are not big on corner mounts for big pieces.
we use the fusion material as well for hot mounts
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Brian K
Thanks for responding. I'm not yet settled on whether I'm using a matte or a pearl finished paper, or for that matter a rag versus an alpha cellulose. I like a bright white surface, very white, no yellow, so I'm leaning toward alpha cell. About 300 GSM minimum.
Bob, cold mount is the least archival I believe. And doesn't face mount require a super glossy surface for proper adhesion? A paper like fuji crystal archive and not an inkjet paper? Or am I wrong? I'd love to be able to front plexi mount some images because the look is really cool and would serve some of my images well but I'm concerned about longevity.
I use Fusion 4000 as well and would not hesitate to use the cold face material in its place. You cannot face mount with heat to plexi, if someone says they can do not listen, I have been working in shops that face mount since the early 80's and the prints will pop right off the mount or bubble , usually after you have paid the bill and at the most inappropriate time.
My concern with large prints like 40", 48" 60" is that corner mounts or hinges will allow sag. So I'm leaning towards dry mounting with Fusion 4000 or Buffermount.
Re: Mounting Large Inkjet Prints
Quote:
Originally Posted by
bob carnie
Brian - the cold tissue we use is optically clear and ph nuetral FWIW I would consider it as archival as any tissue for heat, I use both and believe neither is better on this regard.
Yes a face mount does require a super gloss, we use flex or metallic Lambda Prints and now we are being referred to a metallic inkjet that is being touted as wonderful for face to plexi.
Most of the other inkjet papers and as well luster lambda prints will give you air gaps which are noticable in the shadow areas. ** don't ask me how I know this**
This face tissue will IMHO out last any inkjet print . But time will tell so I will not put a stamp of approval on this statement.
Early mid 90's I put a cibachrome mural show in the Smithsonian, and for that we used a optically clear silicone to face mount the print to cast plexi and then we backed it with a second face print, therefore you could walk around the whole thing as they were hung from the ceiling. The plexi was bigger than the prints, the edges were sanded and then torched and the plexi melted together , wicked.
This worked very well , the silicone pushed any dirt out , I have not done this since and would not consider it as I do not have the same techs and it really is a messy process. Done right spectacular, wrong you lose your shirt.
As you can imagine each piece was very expensive , but considering where it was to hang the photographer felt it was worth it.
We just got back about 10 frames where we did all corner mounts, the prints have dropped and the client was really pissed, over 10 years ago, basically we charged
to re hinge them back in place. No damage to the prints and I do believe he showed these pieces in unkind humidity or heat conditions for this to happen.
So we are not big on corner mounts for big pieces.
we use the fusion material as well for hot mounts
Again, thank you guys for the advice. Most likely I will go with dry mounting because I'm well acquainted with it, either buffermount or Fusion 4000. I will test both materials.
Bob that plexi sandwich sounds really cool, but also really risky.