Dan's book was a huge help - agree with this.
Printable View
Dan's book was a huge help - agree with this.
http://www.addicted2light.com/2014/0...ors-from-negat
That's pretty much what I do. At first, it was pretty hard. A lot of the confusion comes from any backlight or blocking mask that comes through in the scan, so I recommend cropping the image first to get rid of all of that. But once you get used to it, you can spot it in the histogram, and it's not hard to figure out where to set everything. I also use the curves tool to invert my file, saving me a step. Basically you just flip direction of the slope. One of the things I've noticed about inverting C41 film is it's usually a bad idea to rely on presets. Each photo is different, and they all benefit from some personalized tweaking.
If you want, start off using the levels tool instead of the curves tool. The levels tool is a bit easier to use and can often give you fairly decent results in short time, even if you're a beginner. And once you get the hang of that, the curves tool won't be nearly as hard because the same basic principles will transfer over, you just have added options at your disposal now.
I agree with this. My question is on scan resolution so not omly to make small print from file butvlarge one as well. If toblittle, even sharpest picture willlook like crap when displayed. I dont want to have 5 scans that are different resolutions to print different size images. Adjustme may not always be ssme or one to one.
I will disagree. I have seen his work and it by far outstrips most everything I have seen. Plus as I read thru this thread it is apparent there are as many opinions as there are...The point is, to find what works for you. Saying,y picture is color perfect or correct with landscapes and many other images is silly. Product photography is a different case.
I prefer to have my image represent my vision, whether b/w or color, not what someone else considers to be technically correct. A technically correct landscape for example is emotionless, void of feeling and presence however some may like that and there is nothing wrong with that.
I find that people who say so and so doesnt know what they are doing are no better than those they criticize.
Unless doing commercial work, photography is an art form and it is the artist who needs to be happy with their work. Same it is for scanning. There of course is a right way so to speak and a wrong way, but if what you or some one else does works, then so be it
Recently I have "discovered" the old Kodak ROC plugin for Photoshop and after a brief experimentation with it tend to think of it as of a marvel.
Not without its limitations (mostly in number of controls department and age) but the simplicity of use (practically a one button solution) and results it produces are just something special. The best image-acquisition-method independent (DSLR , Scanner, type of film) piece of software for color correction I have tried so far. ColorPerfect or VueScan are not in the same league...
The workflow could be as simple as this:
-Scan as a positive (orange) into RGB of your choice with no clipping, feel free to keep the borders (but nothing artificial such as dust or film code cuts at the edge or processing holes)
-Open in PS
-Invert
-Apply the plugin ("Digital" setting works better than "Film" most of the time)
-Fine tune the tones using either Curves or Levels
(enjoy the colors)
SergeyT
Read about Colorperfect http://www.colorperfect.com/colorperfect.html?lang=en
I use this to convert my linear negative. Scan as linear raw tiff, bring to photo shop it will appear dark as it has
Gama =1. Bring to Colorperfect plugin, do not do anything other than crop and rotate if needed. Adjust image to liking and exit plug in by selecting ok. Adjust from there using Photoshop.
Scan at desired dpi setting, I use 6000dpi on my V850 wet mounted. Do not make any adjustments whatsoever when scanning. Just scan and save as linear raw tiff.
Website has fairly good info on how to scan and convert negative.
Takes a little practice, but you get there quickly. Also works great for black and white images as well.
Hi all!
Rich14 method here is truly interesting : https://www.largeformatphotography.i...scanning/page4
I would like to know, how this following method fits in the above workflow? : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zy7c2ikUhcM&t=190s
Anthony, in the video, only reverses RGB chanels but in a precise way, can i use Rich14 method until the 4th layer step and color balance with the video method?
That should make a "complete" inversion workflow i guess right?
Also, a friend of mine and a drum scanner operator both told me that selecting a grey point is probably the most important step of the inversion process, how does that fit in the above workflow?
And last thing, has someone ever compared Colorperfect vs manual workflow?
Thanks in advance all!