I'm getting a little tired of mixing powders. I've been using ID-11 and D-76. What do you use and why?
I shoot 4X5:
Delta 100 & 400
HP5+ 400
Tmax 100 & 400
Thanks for any help on this.
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I'm getting a little tired of mixing powders. I've been using ID-11 and D-76. What do you use and why?
I shoot 4X5:
Delta 100 & 400
HP5+ 400
Tmax 100 & 400
Thanks for any help on this.
Although a powder, XTOL mixes more easily than ID-11/D76.
Below is a link to a Kodak chart that lists developer charecteristics:
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...?pq-path=14053
Ilford DD-X is a liquid concentrate. No need to mix powders.
DD-X is a Phenidone-Hydroquinone formulation. A prosumer version of Ilford's DD developer that they sell to commercial labs.
FA-1027 is also a liquid concentrate available from The Photographer's Formulary. Similar formula to DD-X, but less expensive.
Both of these developers work great with Ilford HP-5+ and Delta films.
Of course, Pyrocat HD or MC are available in liquid concentrate form (be sure to get them in glycol).
Hi,
I tried rodinal for several 4x5 sheets (Delta 100) and 120 (FP4 and Delta 100) and I found the result too grainy for my taste. I switched to D76, as it was said very difficult to mix, once the D76 finished, I may try DD-X or Xtol.
The obvious choice if you don't want to mix powders for film development is HC110. It can be used in a variety of concentrations, the most common is dilution B (1 oz in a quart). I also use HC110 for compensating development, very dilute at 1 oz in a gallon.
There's been a lot written about HC110 here, and elsewhere that I won't repeat, but it is a wonderful all-around film developer.
John Clark
www.johndclark.com
Ilford Perceptol 1:3. This permits processing in Jobo Expert drums, using continuous agitation, when the tap water and ambient air temperatures are very high here during July through September, for times long enough to ensure even development.
For example, to achieve a CI=0.56 ("N") Fuji Acros negative, my times are 9 min. 0 sec. at 75 degrees F or 7 min. 30 sec. at 81 degrees F. Rotation speed is approximately 46 rpm and EI (metered with a Zone VI-modified Pentax digital spot and measured using a calibrated densitometer for 0.1 above fb-f) is 125.
I use mostly PyroCat HD. Mixing powders is necessary to get the stock solution, then you don't have to re-visit it for months. I use it because it's very CHEAP and it is also very forgiving of my type of photography with the antique lenses. I'll explain. I use antique portrait / soft focus lenses. I use them wide open and I use them outdoors in daylight. That means I can't get quick enough exposures very often. The PcatHD is a self leveling developer. That works very well if you've got 3X the exposure that would have been ideal. You can do a pull development and the catechol will get to a certain point in the highlights and level off.
With ordinary film and good exposure values sometimes I'll get lazy or won't be in the mood to mix up stock solution for a couple of weeks and then I use HC 110 dilution H. Very easy. I have one of those little cough syrup graduates. pour HC110 into between the 10 and the 15ml and drop the entire graduate into 800 ml tapwater.
I know it's not supposed to be that easy. Sorry. With the HC 110 I do pay a bit more attention to the H2O temp. I'm not one of the great technicians. Mostly I get away with it beautifully.
I'm using Ilfotec-HC unless I have a very good reason to mix up something "esoteric".
I started using it because I got a LOT of it very cheap, and at the rate I'm using it I will be using it for the foreseeable future to. Of course it helps a lot that it not only lasts a very long time, but it is also a very good developer which gives me negatives that I like to print - every time.
I am usually shooting Delta 100 in 4X5, so I now use Rodinal at 1:50, for the increased sharpness it gives. I am not so fond of Rodinal in the smaller formats, as it gives me more grain than I prefer. At the print sizes I usually make from 4X5, (16X20-20X24) the increased grain isn't noticible, but the slight improvement in sharpness is.
Otherwise I use Xtol for most of my smaller format film.
Keith
In defense of Rodinal -- it never was for fine grain. But what grain there is -- is sharp as a tack! It is a high acutance (I hope I spelled that correctly) developer. I have a print made from 35mm tri-x developed in Rodinal 1:100 -- I showed the spocket holes on the print -- they are larger than a 4x5 sheet of film. The image is SHARP! And from a proper viewing distance for a print of this size, the grain is not offensive.
If the subject has smooth gradation of lighting and tone, the grain "blends" nicely. It becomes very visable in contrasty subjects.
At the high dilutions ( which are very easy to mix), Rodnal is great in a rotary processor.
HC-110, mostly with HP5+.
Like you, I wanted to avoid mixing powders. In addition, I wanted to avoid fussing with a lot of temperature control. I process in a Jobo drum w/o bath, and can't guarantee that the drum temperature stays the same as the water temperature. My "darkroom" temperatures range from 68F to 74F during the year. According to http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/ development time can be adjusted to temperature by the formula:
New time = Old time × exp(-0.045 × (New temp °F - Old temp °F))
Sooo...
- Water (bottled distilled) and Jobo drum at room temperature
- HC-110 dilution H
- Adjust time according to www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110
- Develop/fix/rinse on a unidirectional Beseler motor base
Dilution H gives me reasonable times in the drum (8-12 minutes, depending on temp) so I don't worry about the time spent filling or emptying. HC-110 is used dilution H as a one-shot developer.
Not quite as casual as Jim Galli, but no fuss, minimal equipment, reproducible.
-Mick
I use Pyrocat HD because it is available in a two part liquid concentrate, the concentrates last for years, it's inexpensive, it works in a Jobo, Sandy King (the formulator) is a knowledgeable and helpful person, and the grain size/sharpness balance works well for my photography.
HC-110, usually at b dilution. It's a lovely developer with any film I've tried it on, and the stock solution has a very, very long shelf life, (it's in a glycol base, so it doesn't oxydize or hydrolize).
Xtol - straight - it will last along time ( a couple of months) undiluted and it will process alot of films before it wears out.
Rich
Pyrocat-HD because it's economical and I like what the stain can do for me on VC paper and Kallitypes. It gives really nice smooth high value tones, and sharp grain. It's also a great developer for stand and semi-stand development. I also mix up LC-1B when I work with APHS film when continuous tones are needed. Recently I've been playing around with an Amidol film developer.
For TMX and TMY-2 sheet film, I use TMAX RS developer in the Jobo. Not according to instructions, but following what I learned from John Sexton years ago, I premix concentrate A and B, and then use that as one shot developer at 1+9 dilution (except for N+2 where I use 1+4).
I've been using D76 1:1 in trays for over 30 years. I know how it works, and I guess I just like the smell. :)
PMK Pyro...........taste great............less filling :D
Pyrocat HD for me. I started using it when I purchased a large quantity of Forte 400 film which is very grainy. The pyrocat helps eliminate or blend the very obvious graininess I would normally get in the highlights with any other developer. Also, it yields the best looking negatives (almost 3-d looking) I have ever seen. I use it with Forte, FP4, Tri-X but not Efke 25. For Efke, I use Rodinal to bring out the sparkle.
Now Pyrocat HD with everything :D
But for nearly 20 years Rodinal and also Xtol for commercial work, OK I mix Pyrocat approx once a year from raw chemicals and after that it's just quick & simple.
I use Pyrocat with Ilford FP4/HP4 Delta 100 & 400, Fomapan 100/200 as well as my last stock of Fortepan 200 but particularly EFKE PL25, it's a superb combination.
Ian
DD-X for HP-5, T-Max developer for T-Max, and Rodinal for just about everything else.
Seeing so many good things about pyrocat-hd makes me think about trying it. Where do you guys get the chemicals to mix it?
Another Pyrocat HD. I use it with Tmax 400 (5x7, 8x10 and 7x17) and contact print on Azo/Amidol. A wonderful combination of materials!
For smaller formats (35mm & 4x5) I still use Tri-x/HC-110
Can I just ask about developing Fuji Acros?
I have always used Ilford DD-X 1+4 in a CombiPlan tank for 8mins30secs @ 20°C. Absolutely beautiful results: tonality range, lack of visible grain, etc.
Now, I am about to start using a Jobo ATL-1500, which can only cope with 24°C, thus shortening the dev time to as little as around 6mins. Now, that would be OK but, if I were to do N-2 or N-3 development, I would end up with times around 4mins.
1. Should this be enough to give thorough development?
2. Is there another developer that would give longer times without compromising the results I am getting at the moment?
I use HC-110 in dilutions "B" and "E". I do deep tank processing of sheet film, and I need convenience.
Another vote for Pyrocat HD.
Here's a sample image. Here's another.
I buy mine in a two part solution from Photographer's formulary in a glycol base. It is a little more expensive than mixing one's own ingredients, but still a fabulous value.
http://www.photoformulary.com/Deskto...ID=31&langID=0
I like these developers in the following order:
Xtol
Pyrocat HD
DDX
Divided D76H or D23
Rodinal
Xtol is hard to beat for all around goodness and its cheap and easy to use.
Pyrocat HD is great. Now that its available in liquid I might use it a bit more.
DDX is wonderful but doesn't keep that well and is expensive.
I also very much like Divided D76H or D23. Neither keep as well as Xtol but can give fabulous results. If mixing from raw chemicals was my choice I'd use one of these.
Rodinal has its own special look with Tri-X, but not good for everything, seems to keep forever.
I pared down to Xtol about 5 years ago to simplify my darkroom life. 5 liters is cheap, keeps very, very well and works great with every film I've ever put through it. Most of the time I use it at 1:3.
Pyrocat-HD is my standard developer. For my 8x10,11x14 and 8x20 it is a great developer. I have some of that 3-D looking Efke-25 in 11x14 that I can't wait to print in carbon transfer. Like Jim said once you mix it it lasts a long time is cheap and gives great results. You can pull or push most films with this developer and do minimal agitation which is how I develop the 8x10's and soon the 11x14's.
Jim
Good thread. Ive used ID11 with mostly HP5 and Efke 25 and been mostly pleased. I bought chemicals for Pyro HD late last year but have not got around to mixing yet as I read there may be problems dissolving some of the chemicals. Those who recommend Pyro HD can they quickly clarify how they mix the chemicals ( temperatures etc ). The Sandy King reference on Unblinking Eye does not specify temperatures ( if I recall correctly ).
Thanks
Geoff
Maybe you need a laboratory quality electric stirrer. It's got an electromagnet that turns and by magnetic induction also turns a magnetized, plastic coated rod that you put into the mixing vessel. I paid about $150 for a used model that also has heat.
Great investment! I slowly mix in the powder, stir by hand so that the powder is suspended and moving in the water, and walk away. Takes about 5 minutes to get it started. When I return 40 or 50 minutes later, the developer is thoroughly mixed.
Neat answer though one which I learnt nothing from. A simple question; are there any water temperature requirements I need to be aware of when I mix raw chemicals to make sols A and B for Pyro HD. I am a simple soul :-).
Perhaps tonight may be the night I move from proprietary branded materials to solutions more esoteric and alchemic. A bit like losing ones viginity. Electronic stirring paddles conjures all kinds of bizarre images. I would imagine good value tho for $150
Geoffrey,
I mix Pyrocat HD in tap water at 115 degrees. I mix it in a beaker and stir by hand, no fancy mixers for me. I find all the ingredients go into solution easily. Pyrocat is my most used developer.
I just want to add that I wear gloves, work in a well ventilated area, and wear a high efficiency dust mask when mixing Pyrocat. You really don't want to be breathing Catechol fumes or particles.
I use PMK pyro or certain tweaks of it for virtually all my conventional (non-lab) b&w
films, every format from 35mm to 8x10. Stores extremely well once mixed into the
A&B liquid components. The advantages of it are well published. For my "look" I prefer it to Pyrocat (I enlarge rather than contact print). I am currently experimenting with the Max Pyro tweak. For lab use like color masking, color separation negatives, etc I have all sorts of developers on hand, since these applications are far more fussy than general shooting and the intended parameters are entirely different.
Thanks Richard. Just the information I was looking for. I'll mix over the weekend. Any particular storage requirements ie glass, plastic etc.?
Ive just received 4 boxes of 5x7 HP5+ from Robert Whites which was sufficient motivation to make the jump.
Thanks again
Geoff
I'm almost at the point where I have standardized on using Prescysol EF for both 4x5 and 120. It's a 2-part liquid, Pyro, very much like Pyrocat HD, and I can mix different films together and develope them all for 10.5 minutes (together) semi-stand in my Combi Plan tank. 120 in SS of course. Some have had issues with Acros but I have not. But it does seem to not like TMAX100 for me. Efke is gorgeous.
My pennies worth.
Some folks who brew their own beer build a magnetic stirrer from a computer's muffin fan with a simple circuit to control the speed. Instructions can probably be found on line and the stirrers themselves are sold on ebay for much less than $150.
Being lazy and short on time, I bought one assembled. It is certainly a kludge and pouring the dry powders in slowly is a must, but it is a pleasure to have your developers mixed for you while you do something else.
I also have been using a magnetic stirrer that I picked up cheap on Feebay. However, I have been wondering if maybe I received a "weak" one. I can barely get a vortex before the magnets lose contact. Is this normal or should they stir with a little more power?
Scott M
Jobo atl-1000 with xtol 1+1
HC 110 for stand and semi-stand developing, and for work where I absolutely need consistancy.
Clayton f76+ also for consistancy and sharpness.
Rodinol when I want sharpness with a bit of punch, i.e. cityscapes.
PMK, Pyrocat HD, or W2D2+ for use with my ancient optics, and for anything with lots of clouds. I also like them with some of my night photography.
I'm one of those people who can't settle on a single developer. My pyro use has been decreasing steadily, though. Since I started using a Jobo for all of my Efke and Adox work, I don't have to use a hardening developer. I do a separate hardening bath before the wash since I like to have the option to selenium tone if the negs are too thin. If I don't tone, I use Agfa Sistan for permanence. I started out as a big advocate of Pyro developers, but I've soured on them lately.
Scott,
This is normal -- I used magnetic stirrers daily for many years as a graduate student in organic chemistry, and they will lose that magnetic "connection" at the higher speeds. It depends on the viscosity of the liquid, many of the liquids stirred are less viscous than water.
In any case, you really don't want a vigorous vortex, that will just mix air (oxygen) into the solution. To get good dissolution of powders into water, you just want the water to be moving around; I use slightly less than a "medium" setting. If there is un-dissolved solids settling around the edges, use a spoon or glass rod to keep the powder from settling.
John Clark
www.johndclark.com
I use XTOL, but I don't mind mixing it a few times a year.
i use a few different developers depending on what mood i am in ..
sprint film developer ( liquid concentrate kind of like d76 but different )
ansco 130
caffeinolC ( eyeball mixed not measured )
and caffeinolC with ansco 130 added ..
films are aged
usually tmx tmy or trix (400 )
the tmx/tmy were bought just before 9-2001
the trix all expired pre 98
Some years ago I started a thread asking what would be the choice for one willing to deal with only one developer. Jay-DeFehr proposed his 510Pyro. I tried it and I've been using it ever-since. It seems that everything goes well with 8:30 min at 23°C. It is very easy to mix, to use and yet very cheap. The concentrate seems to last forever. WL
I have used many high acutance film developers over the course of the last 35 years.
Sorry to admit it except I am that old. I ran a photo lab in the early 1970s in the US Army. The finest developer I ever experienced was Tetenal Neofin Blue. It came in amber colored glass vials that had to be broken open and it was used highly diluted as a one shot developer. When I used it with Leitz lenses and viewed it through a magnifier under the enlarging lens I was totally amazed. This Rodinal, and Edwal FG7 were all wonderul but I would give the edge to the Tetenal. Beseler began to import the Tetenal developers into the US but I experienced quality issues. The Beseler versions came in amber colored plastic vials and were oxidated before I could even open them. I finally switched to Kodak KC110 - dilution B and found it worked well for my 120 roll films and 4x5 negatives.
I am just starting to shoot black and white 8x10 negatives and I hope some of the experts can give my suggestions. Is Pyrol still highly regarded?
Good luck and happy shooting,
Mike