Wanderlust 4x5 P&S

Absolutely-- especially if it'll accept a Nikon SW 90mm f/8.
A wire hoop sports finder and hyperfocal scale for a common 90mm like my Nikon SW would be all that I might need.

Hi guys! Thanks for all the great feedback. Sounds like 65mm would be a popular choice. We went with 90 because there are many more 90s on the market, and they're cheaper than 65s. But if people overwhelmingly want 65, I'll do that!

I hear the desire for interchangeable lenses, but if we're going to mold multiple lens cones anyway, we might as well mold the rest of the body with each one. In other words, it would be less expensive for us (and for you, in the end) to produce separate 90 & 65mm versions, versus separate cones plus a body.

Let's see—other things in random order:

• The top will house cold shoes, but we haven't decided how many yet. Probably 3.
• The back is a simple steel spring back, but the springs are easily removable if you have an extra bulky holder of some sort. The design of the front makes it easy to rubber band something to the back.
• We do want to do a simple plastic GG, ideally that can be married to the springs.
• Shimming shouldn't be necessary—the cone will support all major 90s, with plenty of travel. The focus scale will be adjustable so you can match it to your specific lens.

Just for kicks, I measured my Super Graphic roughly and threw our design next to it. With a lens, the P&S would be taller in one dimension than the Super. In my travels with 4x5 and 8x10, weight is more of an issue than bulk. I've left LF behind on many trips due to weight. That would never happen again with this camera!

http://bensyverson.com/images/2012/0...ide-super1.jpg

http://bensyverson.com/images/2012/0...ide-super2.jpg

http://bensyverson.com/images/2012/0...ide-super3.jpg

It looks as though you are using a plastic helical (3 pins in a track?) for focusing, which I think is fine. Just make sure your focuser barrel doesn't interfere with the rear lens cell--these can be rather wide on 90mm lenses, as you know. If someone wants to lock it down to a hyperfocal distance (though I'm never that sure of my desired print size to really know what c-of-c standard to apply when calculating the hyperfocal distance), they can use tape.

Rubber bands are fine, if they can be sourced in the right size. A better idea might be to source the right length of braided bungee cord.

My use for a camera like this would be an ultra-wide box camera. A 65/8 Super Angulon would live on it. It's a #00 shutter, but I have a Grimes adapter, and I see cheaper adapters on ebay ($15) that allow one to install a #00 threaded flange in a #0 hole. So, targeting that lens does not require deviating from the #0 hole.

If you designed it with a larger front on the cone, you might be able to thread the whole front section for very large travel so that it could be used with a range of lenses from, say, 47 to 90. You could supply a focus scale with markings for three or four focal lengths in that range. It would need to be large enough around to allow it to come very close to the film for a 47 but still avoid vignetting with a 90. But with the molding being cheap enough, providing separate camera bodies for each focal length works, too.

Are you going to prototype it with a 3D printer? Are you considering using a 3D printer as a production tool? They are really getting cheap these days, though the hobby-grade models lack the precision for a project like this.

Rick "who might buy two if they are cheap enough--one for 65 and one for 90" Denney

Rick, thanks again for your input! We started with pins/tabs in a groove for the helical, but now it's a normal helicoid, mostly to add a light trap.

We ordered a 3D printed prototype, so in a month or so we'll know if the overall dimensions need any adjustment. The precision is getting pretty good on 3D printing, but it's still not cheap enough as a production process. The prototype cost over $300, which is a small price to pay to verify the design, but unreasonably high for an end user.

Our target retail price is $99, but it's hard to know how realistic that is until we get a quote for tooling.

I know you are thinking of a P&S, but how about a tripod socket? Or at least a thick pad/section on the bottom to add one?

I'll second the tripod socket, and add the there should be one for both horizontal and vertical. Two small bubble levels would be nice two. I mention this because I bought a Titan Pinhole camera and it has the tripod sockets and bubble levels and I really like them. Hand held is great but if there isn't enough light then having the tripod option is good.

Roger

There will definitely be a tripod socket, on the bottom of the lens cone (no room in the body). No need for two, as the camera is so light you can just tilt it on the tripod. Bubble levels are easy to add via the cold shoes.

I'd be likely to buy a 65mm with a hotshoe or wire finder, and a tripod socket.

Sounds like a very interesting concept .. I'd be interested in a 65mm version if the price is right!

How about a 75mm as a compromise between 90 and 65 ?

Stefan (having a Fuji 75mm of course ...)