Newbie question on light meters
I just made the leap into LF with a purchase of an 8X10 Calumet (along with a 4X5 back). Having never used a hand held light meter and assuming I will attempt to learn and use the Zone System, what type of meter should I be looking for?
In reading Adams' book on the Zone System it seems as if a spot meter is preferred since you could indentify specific areas and assign values to it more readily than an incident or reflective meter.
Or is it a case of needing to have multiple meter types?
Please help.
Thanks,
Jack
Re: Newbie question on light meters
I shoot landscapes on positive film and use a Pentax Digital Spot Meter to evaluate the range of light in a scene. If a scene's highlights and important shadows are more than five stops apart I try to employ a graduated neutral density filter to bring the highlights into to the five-stop range of my film; if the use of a GND filter isn't feasible, I move on, or I wait. Here's a very helpful thread:
http://www.largeformatphotography.in...ad.php?t=19634
Re: Newbie question on light meters
Jack,
A spot meter measures the light reflected from the scene over a very small angle of view; typically 1 degree, although there are meters that have different angles of view. Another type of relected meter measures the light reflected from the scene in toto, and then averages the various luminance values to give an 'average' exposure. An incident meter measures the light falling (incident) on the scene.
A spot meter will indispensable since you are planning to learn and use the Zone System in order place a value and to see where other values fall on the exposure scale.
There are pros and cons for each type; so, you will have to determine which type of meter best fits your needs. I use a 1-degree Pentax digital spot meter for all my work.
-PB
Re: Newbie question on light meters
Of course there is no real "requirement" for using the Zone system, you understand. A simple incident meter is perfectly fine especially if one is just starting out.
Re: Newbie question on light meters
All,
Thanks for the feedback. I will look into either a spot or incident meter or both. It looks like there are plenty of choices on ebay.
Cyrus, I realize that using the Zone System is not a necessity but since I'm an engineering 'geek' in my real job, this looks like something that I would enjoy learning and putting into practice. In fact, I'm wondering what percentage of the hobbyists on this forum do use it.
For me, this is just the start of hopefully a long journey into LF. I have many questions on other topics which I'll be following on other threads.
Jack
Re: Newbie question on light meters
If you intend to use the zone system then a spot meter is best. The Pentax digital spotmeter is excellent.
For used try the Azo Forum, KEH, Midwest Photo, APUG.
Re: Newbie question on light meters
Jack,
You didn't say what your subjects will be, but for outdoor photography with negative films, I would also suggest the sunny 16 rule since you are just starting out. You can Google it to find out the details, but basically its says that f16 at the film speed is a good starting point in full sunlight. Adjust up or down depending upon conditions. Modern negative film has a lot of latitude. You may be wrong in the beginning, but after a while I think you'll appreciate the confidence in relying on your own judgment. Try it and then consult your meter to compare.
I use an old Gossen incident meter that I frequently "override" depending upon what I'm trying to achieve.
Good luck! Post some of your results.
Ted
Re: Newbie question on light meters
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Jack Polise
I realize that using the Zone System is not a necessity but since I'm an engineering 'geek' in my real job, this looks like something that I would enjoy learning and putting into practice.
Well in that case you're going to luv the Zone System because you're going to do a lot more measuring and testing than photography! :p
I don't know what percentage practice it -- one problem is defining exactly what constitutes the Zone System.
I think everyone pretty much does the old "expose for shadows" part but Im pretty sure far fewer really do the full "develop for highlights" part (except perhaps for following a very rough "add/subtract 10 percent for more/less contrast" rule of thumb) and even fewer have fully test and calibrated everything, and only a minority consistently stick to that.
In fact, I am curious to know whether anyone has actually tested to see if the fully implemented Zone system results in consistent outcomes. While ZS does attempt to control certain variables, there are potentially many other unaccounted-for or unknown variables that the ZS does not deal with which could hypothetically have an effect. Is the water quality from the tap today the same as yesterday, and will that make a difference?
In BW photography, film has such an exposure latitude that you can get away with two stops over/under exposure and make up for it with some dodging/burning and contrast filter use. I also have too many lens/camera/film combinations. That's why I gave up on ZS and my densitometer just sits there, looking at me ruefully.
Re: Newbie question on light meters
The zone system is very simple and is IMHO the best system to use if you want to do anything other than make a "correct" exposure (i.e. an exposure that accurately reflects the values in the scene). The real value of the zone system IMHO isn't just in making a "correct" exposure, it's in allowing you to be creative in interpreting a scene. Just remember that as John Sexton says, it's the "zone" system, not the pinpoint system, so it's best not to get too compulsive and start worrying about things like whether your water supply is the same today as it was yesterday. The zone system isn't designed to produce perfection, it's just a means to help you make the print you want to make as easily as possible.
You can save testing time and trouble by using the services of The View Camera Store instead of doing the testing yourself. While the testing generally only has to be done once for each film you use it does take some time and can use up a lot of film. The View Camera Store requires that you develop only six sheets of film and charges about $35. They'll also provide you with far more information than you're likely to get on your own.
Of course you could just wing it as someone mentioned, relying on the latitude of the film to make up for your errors. But apart from anything else, that's a very difficult way to work. Even when you get a printable negative you can end up spending a whole lot more time in the darkroom than if you got the negative right in the first place. Darkroom work is much more fun when you can easily make a decent print and can spend most of your time making refinements that change it from decent to great (as opposed to struggling with a bad negative trying to make something decent out of it). All just my opinion of course.
Re: Newbie question on light meters
Since you are new to large format may I suggest some reading
any/all of the articles in the Free Articles section of the View Camera web site
www.viewcamera.com
one or more of the following books
Jack Dykinga's Large Format Nature Photography
Jim Stone's User's Guide to the View Camera
my book Using the View Camera
check your local library
FWIW I am a fan of a spot meter. I measure the darkest and lightest areas where I want to hold on to some feeeling of material and texture and work my exposure and development accordingly.
good luck
steve simmons