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In the thread below dealing with washing 8x10 film several people said they left their film in tubes through fixing. I've used the BTZS tubes for years and without thinking much about it have always removed the film from the tubes after the stop bath and fixed it in trays. Leaving it in the tubes for fixing would be very useful from a convenience standpoint. Does anyone have any thoughts about the wisdom of doing that as opposed to removing the film from the tubes and fixing it in trays?
I haven't used tubes for film, but it seems to me it should be OK. There might be some developer that gets between the film and the tube wall, but since that's the non-emulsion side it won't go anywhere except into the wash water. Just be sure you put enough fixer into the tube to complete the job; it might be a good idea to use a 2 bath fix.
I am always afraid I would leave some fixing residue in the tube and mess up the next sheet. I do like you and take the film out for stop bath and fixing.
Brian,
I find that I don't get enough fixing on the back side when in the tube to properly clear the negatives, so I end up having to clear in a tray anyway after the tube fix.
For that reason, I don't think it is worthwhile fixing in the tube, as it fixes and clears much faster in a tray.
That's my experience, other's may vary.
---Michael
I agree with Michael, the issue isn't adequate fixing of the emulsion, it's the efficiency with which the base clears.
In his BTZS book - or at least in the 3rd edition, which I have - Phil Davis recommends removing the film from the tubes and fixing in a tray.
I have a Jobo 3005 on order, (never used one before); is it okay to fix & wash in those?
I use the two bath fixing approach because it extends the capactity of the fixer and is more reliable for thorough fixing. I use the first bath with the film in the tubes, then turn on the room lights and move the films to a tray containing the second bath. I find the second bath sufficient to remove the dye from the back of the film.
I also fix in trays. When I left the film in the tubes *sometimes* it didn't clear completley.
Mark -
I fix and wash in Jobo 3005 and 3006 drums, and it works fine.
Mark,
I complete all steps, from pre-wash to 20 min final wash in Jobo Expert drums. I am a bit "klutzy", so completing the process in the drums maintains maximum consistency and avoids my inevitable guaranteed scratched emulsion. I only take the negs out for photoflow and hanging. Read: 1 neg in tray of photo flow at a time!! I use far less water and the darkroom rarely gets "fumey".
Cheers,
Geary
Thanks, I guess I should have explained that "fixing" as such wasn't the only consideration, clearing of the film was another. I attended two of Phil's workshops and if he says to use trays in his book he probably said it in the workshops as well, so I guess that's why I do it. Based on everything said here on balance I think I'll continue using the trays even though it makes keeping track of the negatives more difficult. Thanks again.
I use a piece of fiberglas window screen cut to the size of the negative and inserted on the non-emulsion side of the negative, between the negative and the tube. That seems to help get the liquids to that side of the film. I've never noticed any trouble getting the negatives to clear.
Oren + Geary: When you wash in the Jobo, do you fill and empty the water by hand on some regular basis - or do you have some kind of setup to introduce and drain the water ?
Ken -
I use the Jobo 3005 and 3006 on a CPA-2 processor with the Jobo Lift accessory, which allows processing solutions to be poured in and emptied without removing the drum or stopping the motor. You can use as many rounds of wash water as you think necessary before stopping the processor and removing the film for final wetting agent in a tray and hanging it up to dry.