Re: Super Graphic Solenoid Replacement?
Thanks Brian. I have indeed considered the foil strips in the bellows. Since mine is the early-style Super, it has the foil and contact points where the bellows meet the rear standard. I fully expect that these foil strips were broken by metal fatigue of the constant opening and closing of the camera. In fact I'm so sure the strips are bad, I was not even going to attempt using them. Even if they do still work, how long? I intend to use the sh out of this camera. That's why I have already concocted an idea to run wire down the bellows, probably on the exterior. If you have observed the way the cable release runs the length of the bottom of the bellows on Speeds and Crowns. I intend to do work that is reversable, and not alter the camera to any degree that would detract from its originality. I put my 68 Camaro Convertibe back to exact stock, and that's the way I do things. When I kick off and the camera makes its way to the next owner, he's not going to be handed something that a boob has bastardized.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
BrianShaw
I’d assume that Henry’s camera has an Optar 135 in a Graphex X-M shutter, or a X shutter. Whether the flash is connected to the shutter via the body ports or directly to the shutter bi-post should be immaterial, except those synch foils in the bellows often go bad or become unreliable. Once connected how the shutter is tripped is immaterial, as Henry sez, for a strobe. But a solenoid release sure makes picture taking a bit easier.
1 Attachment(s)
Re: Super Graphic Solenoid Replacement?
Well, looky here. 6 AAA's fit in the battery bay of a Super Graphic. That means 3 parallel-wired doublets, or 2 trios. 3 or 4.5V
choices, and lots of capacity. I bet you could kick a Crown or Speed solenoid a lot of times with that much capacity. Now the question as to whether a smarter mind would add any capacitors, resistor, and diodes between the batteries, switch, and solenoid. An always off circuit, closed only when the button is pressed. None of this foolishness with bad capacitors running down your batteries when you're not using the camera. So, the new plan is to subsitiute the Super solenoid with one from a Speed/Crown, with enough kick to run it, and open-circuit until needed instantaneously. I welcome anyone shooting down my grand plans. Think it'll work?Attachment 175766
Re: Super Graphic Solenoid Replacement?
Why not just buy the special battery? That’s what I did for my Super Graphic, I did a google search for the odd size found it, stuck it in the camera and it’s worked for years.
Re: Super Graphic Solenoid Replacement?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
brucetaylor
Why not just buy the special battery? That’s what I did for my Super Graphic, I did a google search for the odd size found it, stuck it in the camera and it’s worked for years.
Don’t simplify things!
Re: Super Graphic Solenoid Replacement?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
BrianShaw
Actually, yes. I’ve recently had some Duracell alkaline batteries leak. Certainly not as bad as in the old days but the cap joint oozed it’s goo on several of my remote controls and a Nikon MD-4 battery holder. Its infrequent but still happens.
Bummer! I'm going into my storage unit tomorrow to check!
Thanks, Brian.
Re: Super Graphic Solenoid Replacement?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Bob Salomon
Don’t simplify things!
They are incredibly expensive... when/if they can found.
Re: Super Graphic Solenoid Replacement?
I ordered my Speed/Crown solenoid today. If this idea doesn't work, I can abandon the Super Graphic project entirely, and just go back to reaching around front for the top of the shutter actuation part. I'm not going to buy special order Chinese made batteries to the tune of 40-some-odd dollars a pop. When this camera was made, it could be operated off items available at any drug store. There's not a reason in the world why this Super Graphic can't be used with full effectiveness for any photographic situation, to compete with any other camera new or used. I wish the designer of it had done a few things different, but all-in-all it's still a good camera. Come to think of it, it could be the last of the great American-made cameras, along with the Kodak Medalist II.
I'll try to report back on the solenoid conversion. But rest assured, I do not intend to bastardize this camera with irreversible knucklehead homegrown boob work. Or throw money down a rat hole on operating it.
Re: Super Graphic Solenoid Replacement?
I Googled “eveready 412” and found the 22.5V battery for $24.95. So $50 for two. It was worth it for me, no monkeying around. But to each his own. Last time I took the Super Graphic out they were 3 or 4 years old and working fine.
Re: Super Graphic Solenoid Replacement?
The other thing you can do (if you insist on a solenoid release, which is nice) is some older Graphic lenses had the solenoid mounted on the lensboard (by the shutter release) that operated on the standard 3 cells flashholder (instead, you can get/make a small battery pack with AA's etc), mount the solenoid on your favorite lensboard/lens, and use that as a workaround for the camera system, without the $$$ battery...
Steve K
Re: Super Graphic Solenoid Replacement?
My Super worked with batteries I got on ebay from China but I had to take the casing off to get them to fit in, then my super shutter failed. So, what I did was run a shutter release cable to left top of the casing and gaffer taped a plastic hook on there to which I slotted in the cable button end which then lies just above the little red button so I can fire the shutter the same way. This means I can use the same setup with any lens. Oh, I leave the cable attached to the lens when closing the camera and just coil it around the lens.
I recently found a replacement super 1000 shutter, all speeds working even 1/1000s! So I have just got another set of batteries, $10 a pair, and they fit better after squidging the cases a bit, so can fire that lens electronically. I'll have to see how long the batteries last. It would be nice to work out a mechanism to use the solenoid to fire shutters of other lenses on generic lens boards, else the release cable routing trick works pretty well, though a bit messy.
Richard