Re: Which wood for a Chamonix F1 is better ... Teak or Maple?
But it's all analogous. None of these terms are specific. While I wouldn't have a fit over it, since Chamonix seems to be finely crafted from what I've seen, it still would be of import to me personally if I were buying one. So yes, it is always better to see the final article in person, especially if you understand how wood interacts with weather. But let's take mahogany. There is a world of difference between the remnants of relatively dimensionally-stable pattern-grade that have been curing in dry storage over decades from just anything marketed as mahogany. Similarly, some very dense woods like teak or ebony are prone to end grain splitting if the sealant wears out. Maple can be more forgiving in that respect, but not all maple is the same. There's a lot of "barely-maple" out there, especially from Russian sources, just like a lot of pseudo-teak is around, now that real Burmese is restricted. I'm out in the weather a lot, so inspect my wooden folders every year, and re-seal any suspect nicks or wear areas. Nothing is perfect. Just intelligent choices.
Re: Which wood for a Chamonix F1 is better ... Teak or Maple?
Basically it doesn't matter. Mine is teak and I don't give it a second thought, especially as when they first came out only teak was available.
Re: Which wood for a Chamonix F1 is better ... Teak or Maple?
Sorry, Garrett. Maple gets more than its share of scars too. You should see my kitchen floor, only a few years old. All A-grade maple I set myself; but there are the inevitable beauty scars of dropped pots n' pans, etc. My beloved Ries tripods have whacked all kinds of branches off the trail, been dropped off cliffs a couple times, and wear their scars like proud symbols of life experience. I was out in the howling coastal wind this past weekend with a huge 6x7 telephoto (any view cameras would have been a kite in such circumstances), attached to my Ries with a solid block of maple which I carefully distressed with faux scars before I sealed it with marine epoxy tinted with rust - to match my weatherbeaten Ries. I'm starting to look weatherbeaten myself, so why not? Maybe I should shut up,
cause it's getting apparent I'd vote for a maple Chamonix just to match everything.
Re: Which wood for a Chamonix F1 is better ... Teak or Maple?
I just received an email reply from Hugo:
Hugo,
I plan to order a F1 in Maple about May 15, 2016. Will you have one in inventory at that time?
Thank you,
Terry Thomas
Atlanta, Georgia USA
//////
Dear Mr. Thomas,
No, but we have them in teak in stock. We have sold out all 45F1 cameras in maple and run out of maple wood and won't use maple wood anymore.
Hugo Zhang
Re: Which wood for a Chamonix F1 is better ... Teak or Maple?
so yeah, go with mahogany for sure then:)
Re: Which wood for a Chamonix F1 is better ... Teak or Maple?
Personally, I'd ask whether they could make one from bird's-eye maple if you sent the wood. But then, I'm weird...
Re: Which wood for a Chamonix F1 is better ... Teak or Maple?
Mark, I had the same thought but the OP probably isn't a wood expert. The wood has to be cut close to dimensions to see how birds eye will look.
Re: Which wood for a Chamonix F1 is better ... Teak or Maple?
The snag with bird's eye maple is that it inevitably brings this to mind: http://www.traditionalmusic.co.uk/fo...nce_a_Foot.htm
Not helping, I know... I'll go away now!
Neil
Re: Which wood for a Chamonix F1 is better ... Teak or Maple?
I'd go for the teak, due to its moisture resistance & dimensional stability.
Re: Which wood for a Chamonix F1 is better ... Teak or Maple?
My Chamonix 8x10 is teak, and the wood is beautiful and very high quality. Also have a 4x5 in walnut, which is equally nice. Chamonix has high standards for the wood they use.