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Dear all,
I finally found an enlarger set where I live (expensive to buy from abroad and have it shipped). It can print 35mm up to 4x5 (he'll check the holders). I'm very excited :)
I see there is plenty of choices of papers, and I'd like to start with 8x10 papers and learn on them, I'll stick with one brand and one type until I'm comfortable at it and then experiment with other type.
Any suggestion on papers will be appreciated (the easier to print the better).
Regards,
Mohammed
Start with a resin-coated paper such as Ilford Ilfospeed grade 2 or a resin-coated variable-contrast paper such as Ilford Multigrade IV.
Multigrade variable contrast paper is more convenient as you can select the contrast through using filters. If you don't have filters, you can still print on multigrade papers and most of these will print at grade 2 or 2-1/2 without the filters. Resin coated papers are more efficient with water when it comes to washing, so Keith Tapscott's advice to learn with VC papers is sound.
I for my own reasons, I prefer graded, fiber paper and these are far more rare, so every time I buy a box there is an element of stress as to if anyone has continued making the stuff. You don't need that extra stress when you're learning!
What you'll want to determine for yourself if you prefer warm or cold prints for your negatives as this will change the visual feeling a print will portray. If you can't decide which to commit to, stick with a cold tone paper and you can use toners to warm it up if you wish. Its all learning and its all good!:)
Dear guys,
Thank you very much for the helpful information. The thing is, there is also many brands at different price points (price now is not the issue, thankfully) but should I stick with ilford or go with something like adox easy print or something else that should get me started (I really like ilford in general for films and chemicals). One last thing, do I use my current fixer and stop bath (I have ilford rapid fixer and ilford stop bath)? I'll use dektol as paper developer.
I also like the graded papers. I like consistency. I recently found a paper called Varycon/Fotokemika Emaks-888, also called Adox Nuance and some others I can't think of right now. It's inexpensive compared to many others on the market and I was pleased with my results. While cost is certainly a factor, it's not the deciding factor. I plan to continue using it because I like the results I get with it. Photographer Formulary's 130 Developer and Ilford Multigrade Developer both work well with it. I didn't care for the bluish-gray look of Dektol.Quote:
Originally Posted by John Kasaian
I like Ilford papers too, but they don't come cheap. For learning, keep your costs down. You'll need the money to buy more paper and chemicals.
Does dektol create bluish tone!? I hate bluish tone.....natural grey would be perfect. Does the ilford developer create a natural tone?Quote:
Originally Posted by cdholden
A bluish gray tint? Yes, but toning the print can change that. Different toners have different results. I was sharing my experience of "just printing"... without toning it.
Instead of white overcast skies, I got a blue-gray.
Sorry, I meant bluish gray! I like grays to be gray....I don't want to try toning now, as I'm looking for pure printing and adjusting the exposure....test strip, contact prints...etc. no toning for now :)
I'll try to get the ilford multi grade developer with the papers I choose.
How is Arista Private Reserve VC RC for a start or any of the other Arista line-ups
If you're open to the idea of making your own developers and have a small scale, purchasing raw chemicals is a good way to save money. It opens a lot of options instead of using the overhead-marked-up-pre-packaged Ilford developers. I just used those because it's what was handy when I got the paper.Quote:
Originally Posted by mob81