B&W Scanning Workflow

O.K., I've googled myself nearly to death.

I think I just need a starting point.

Can anyone point me to a good B&W scanning workflow? I have existing B&W (Tri-X) negs I need to scan--perhaps eighty or more negatives. Don't want to overlook something simple.

I know there are a variety of ways to do most everything ... I'm using a Microtek i900 (with SilverFast--speaking of SilverFast: What the heck is a "Q-Factor"? If I have a certain file size scanned at different "Q-factors" will there be a difference between the two?)).

Scan in at 48 bit RGB? As positive or negative? Using one channel (green) and desaturating seems to look good. What about 16 vs. 8 bit. I read that I should do most manipulation in 16 bit. I'm a little confused about when to convert--and notice that some functions in PhotoShop don't seem to work in 16 bit.

Like I said, I need a starting point...

Thanks!

--Darin

www.darinboville.com

My film to digital workflow for 4x5 http://www.butzi.net/articles/process.htm

I scan negs on an 1800f.

I scan TMX as an RGB positive and invert in Photoshop. Scan it 16 bit. Everything works in 16 bit in Photoshop CS. If you don't have CS, you should upgrade, IMHO.

The Q factor is just a multiplier factor to the "lines" value. Sounds weird to us, but to offset print shops, the factor multipies the lines value by the Q fadctor to calculate the resolution. Printers deal in lines. We use dpi. Most of us here know what resolution and output size we want and just set that. You can ignore the lines value and the Q value and just input your desired dpi. It's all in the big AI pdf manual on your disc.

Okay, not exactly an expert opinion, but my scans look as good as any I've seen from B&W film at my resolution limit...

I have an Agfa Arcus 1200 scanner, not supported by SilverFast. I have, however, recently installed the copy of Photoshop 5 LE (Limited Edition) that came with the scanner. Currently, I scan in B&W negative mode, with film gamma and tone curve selected for best preview appearance on each roll. I manually set white and black points for each negative, and scan at maximum 2400 ppi in 16 bit gray scale, allowing the scanner software (the TWAIN driver that came with the scanner) to handle the inversion to positive. I then set the levels in photoshop and save a full resolution, 16 bit copy before demoting to 8 bit for editing (neither this version of Photoshop nor GIMP can edit a 16 bit image). I use the clone tool in Photoshop to spot out dust, then in either PS or GIMP resize as needed, and unsharp mask or sharpen after resizing, saving intermediate images when it seems appropriate (depending on the final use of the image and whether it's a keeper or just for file). The results produce very nice prints when I take my CD to Costco and look good on the web, as appropriate for file size.

Just yesterday, I got back an 8x12 and 11x14 from 20 and 30 MB uncompressed 8 bit TIFF files respectively, they look as good (at least at arm's length) as optical prints from the same size crop, though I'm sure a loupe would reveal the pixels of the digital printing process. Oh, and the two prints (admittedly on chromogenic paper, so not archival) were only about $5 for the pair, ready in half an hour.

The bad news is that the original 16 bit uncompressed image from 9x12 cm, 2400 ppi, comes to between 150 and 170 MB, depending how agressively I crop off the film border at the scanning stage.

Paul, you are mistaken.... Everything does not work in 16 bit in Photoshop CS.

You must not use PS much.

jay

Jay-

I'm sure you're right, and you're more expert than I am (or ever will be).

What I should have written is "All of the features of Photoshop which I use work in 16 bit mode."
I'm sure that if I, say, wanted to make it look like my photo was sandwiched with crinkly cellophane, or perhaps had brush stroke texture, or looked like a conte crayon drawing, I'd find that the filters to do that work only in 8 bit mode.

But layers (including the much needed adjustment layers), gradients, masking, sharpening, blurring, and the other tools I use - they all work in 16 bit mode.

So if you have CS, just work in 16 bit mode, end to end. If you don't, I'd recommend upgrading.

On the contrary Paul. You are very much an expert on Photoshop. Your website has some excellent information and better yet your images are great!!! I learned much about toning from your site(thanks).

What I meant was that Duo tone and other good stuff is still 8 bit. Hopefully Adobe will address these in there next release.

Jay

Ahhh, thank you so much...

--Darin

Paul, thanks for sharing your article on your workflow. You have a nice web site and it seems some other interesting articles. I just read the Hunter-Gatherer or Farmer? article. I like your idea of forcing oneself to take a larger quanitity of images in a given location instead of just driving or hiking around looking for that one great shot. I'm going to give that a try sometime soon.