http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum Traditional film, film processing, lab processing, chemistry, paper, traditional printing processes and conservation. en Thu, 09 Sep 2010 18:49:07 GMT vBulletin 15 http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/images/misc/rss.jpg http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66446&goto=newpost Thu, 09 Sep 2010 17:51:20 GMT Hi, Not sure if this is the correct section so please move if not. I have a crown graphic and I want to shoot some polaroids, am I correct in... Hi,

Not sure if this is the correct section so please move if not.

I have a crown graphic and I want to shoot some polaroids, am I correct in thinking that I need a 4x5 polaroid holder?

Is there negative polaroid and positive polaroid? Who still makes it? Can you get positive b&w polaroid?

Sorry for all the questions but if someone could point me in the correct direction it would be appreciated.

Thanks ]]> Liam: http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66446 http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66445&goto=newpost Thu, 09 Sep 2010 17:27:24 GMT Can it be used? Reverse-mounted on a home-made lensboard, stopped to f22. Negative size: 6x7, shot with a Pentax, 55mm, f16, heavy tripod.... Can it be used?

Reverse-mounted on a home-made lensboard, stopped to f22.
Negative size: 6x7, shot with a Pentax, 55mm, f16, heavy tripod.
Enlargement ratio: 32x >> 70x88" print.
Dichroic head, Ultra Endura N, Fuji CPRA juice.
Sharpness/contrast requirements: considerable.

Any suggestions, advices, warnings - GREATLY APPRECIATED!

LFrtb ]]> LF_rookie_to_be http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66445 http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66410&goto=newpost Wed, 08 Sep 2010 02:33:37 GMT I' m intending to get into large format photography - black and white landscape . It seems important that you become very familiar with the film you use . Best choices seem to be Ilford FP4 or Kodak TMax 100 . Which would you recommend ? I will want to teach myself to develop and print it . ]]> johnjoseph http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66410 http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66398&goto=newpost Tue, 07 Sep 2010 22:12:27 GMT Hey. I am just starting out with the Fomapan 100. I have bought the Xtol developer, a stop (Tetnal indicet) and the TMAX fix. I am wondering what... Hey. I am just starting out with the Fomapan 100. I have bought the Xtol developer, a stop (Tetnal indicet) and the TMAX fix.

I am wondering what are your optimal processing/developing times and methods for this film using a combination of the above developer and fix. I am after maximum sharpness with minimal grain for scanning and optimal enlarging. ]]> l2oBiN http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66398 http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66388&goto=newpost Tue, 07 Sep 2010 16:50:21 GMT I try to keep my darkroom shoveled-out on a regular basis, otherwise the stuff accumulates everywhere. I have a museum of mostly yellow boxes... I try to keep my darkroom shoveled-out on a regular basis, otherwise the stuff accumulates everywhere. I have a museum of mostly yellow boxes growing on my shelf. There are more than a dozen boxes of film I'm not using and it is so outdated, 30 years and more, that it is pointless to have around. I have Tmax (only 13 years out), Super XX, Isopan (I don't know how old that is), Techpan (it is probably still good and I'm using that), and a few others. Mostly 4x5, but I know there is some old 8x10 there too.

Do others have this problem? I saved it to load the developer in the drum when I would only need to develop 1 or 2 sheets. Then I'd add some fully exposed sheets of something to make sure the developer exhausted at its normal rate. Now I'm not using a drum anymore, so I'm not sure there is a reason to have this stuff.

It has not been stored in the refrig. It is stored in my darkroom at about 60 to 80F. I'm sure it has fog on it.

What should I do with it? Is there some use for it that I don't know about? ]]> Eric Woodbury http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66388 http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66365&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 22:28:02 GMT In a previous post, someone mentioned the demise of Zone VI chemicals. I am working down my stash of Zone VI paper developer which I hate to lose. I... In a previous post, someone mentioned the demise of Zone VI chemicals. I am working down my stash of Zone VI paper developer which I hate to lose.

I have seen numerous opinions about a suitable replacement along with some contradictions. Some say to just use Dektol but it might be slightly warmer or less contrasty. Some say to use Bromophen as a similar PQ developer but their product info says it is somewhat warm toned. I would like to avoid liquid developers if possible because of shipping cost and oxidation (I used to like Edwal Ultrablack but its shelf life is not great).

I found the Zone VI to be a sharp, contrasty, cold tone developer. What should I buy to replace it? Thanks. ]]> jeroldharter http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66365 http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66363&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 21:42:36 GMT What is the finest grained BW 4x5 film that I can develop using standard chem? i have xtol developer and Tmax stop at the moment. I am shooting... What is the finest grained BW 4x5 film that I can develop using standard chem? i have xtol developer and Tmax stop at the moment. I am shooting Fomapan 100. ]]> l2oBiN http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66363 http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66345&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 05:54:13 GMT Ok so we're all familiar with the case of, say, a landscape shot that has things sticking up into the sky in the foreground that have complicated shapes (for example a church spire)
and we're all familiar with the problems thus created if you attempt to burn in the sky in: the foreground thing sticking up in the sky gets overexposed too.

I'm trying to think of the ways to deal with this problem and the plusses and minuses with each:

1-the most basic is to attempt to dodge the spire but this is probably the least effective way since inevitably you'll end up with underexposed and or overexposed halos around the spire.

2/ use an acetate mask but that requires perfect masking and registration

2- you could try flashing the paper area that will show the sky

3- you could try split grade filter printing ?

4- bleaching the spire afterwards?

5- what else? ]]> cyrus http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66345 http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66342&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 02:27:42 GMT Is there a website that compares a regular darkroom enlarger colour print with one printed from a digital file onto photo paper (Chromira, Light-Jet,... Is there a website that compares a regular darkroom enlarger colour print with one printed from a digital file onto photo paper (Chromira, Light-Jet, etc.)?

Would you see a difference at say 20x24 size?

What dpi, bit depth etc. should a 120 colour neg be scanned at to produce a good 20x24 Chromira type print?

Is there a good source of information (either a book or web site) on this topic?

Thank you...

(I want to do a bit of colour work with my Mamiya 7 and am wondering if it's worth investing in a scanner to prepare files for printing 16x20 or 20x24 or whether regular darkroom lab prints will be good enough - like they used to be...:) ) ]]> Richard K. http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66342 http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66313&goto=newpost Sun, 05 Sep 2010 05:57:41 GMT Hi everyone. I use this forum constantly and the people on it have helped me learn a great many things when I find myself stuck. Well, I hope this... Hi everyone. I use this forum constantly and the people on it have helped me learn a great many things when I find myself stuck. Well, I hope this will be another one of those situations. I am immersing myself in as much photographic knowledge and information as I can and I am currently enrolled in photography courses as well so please make no mistake, I am not looking for someone to provide a full 4 year seminar in one post. I am simply looking for some clear clarification that I know a great many of this forum's participants may be able to offer.

I have been searching for and reading everything I can find on film testing and why it's important, the many methods available, etc., but I have been unable to find a source that offers a basic explanation in layman's terms offering a fundamental and basic explanation of why and how and then a progression into the more advanced and mathematical specifics of the practice. Most of what I have read seems to start in the middle assuming the reader has a solid understanding of the basics of film testing which I do not believe I have. I'm looking for a linear explanation from the most basic explanation progressing to the more advanced that I can understand and put into practice relative to where I am in my understanding of the photographic process and my specific purposes.

As a starting point, my range of knowledge has typically been more specific to equipment and the mechanical nature of cameras (I started as a collector and am now moving into practicing photography with the tools that I have collected). I am most interested in doing B&W contact prints on 8x10 and to a lesser degree on 5x7. I do not own a densitometer but I am more than willing to purchase one if that is indeed the most efficient and accurate method of testing my film and equipment/ process combinations. From what I understand, I would be looking for a transmission densitometer (please correct me if I am wrong). I have a Pentax Spotmeter V which I have come to understand is a very useful tool in film testing and I have also read that there is a method for turing this spot meter into a densitometer. For my purposes I will not be enlarging prints so I believe adding an enlarger to the equation would be an unnecessary step (again, please correct me if I am wrong). Lastly, I am now beginning to explore doing my own development so my understanding of that process is still limited.

Can someone please offer a very basic explanation of why testing film would be important for me if I am shooting B&W and contact printing as opposed to someone who is shooting 35mm or medium format and enlarging. Is there a difference in the importance of this between these? Why?

What is/are the best, most effective, and most consistent (I understand this is objective) method/methods of testing film? This method? Using a transmission densitometer? Using the Pentax spot meter as a densitometer? I'm not necessarily looking for the easiest way or the least expensive way, I fundamentally want to understand this and use the best method for me both personally and legitimately.

How exactly is it done? What are the possible tools used? Is there an exact and tested workflow that yields the best (most dependable and consistent) results? In any explanation please explain as fully as you can assuming I know basically nothing. I think this will be immeasurably useful for not only myself but everyone else who reads this in the future.

Lastly, and this depends on the answers to the above questions, what would be the ideal (meaning realistic and at least relatively affordable) equipment i.e. spot meter rig, densitometer, step wedge, etc., to use?

I apologize if anyone feels that this has been discussed at length enough times and I will gladly accept and links that you can offer that you believe will direct me to the answers and information I am looking for. Also, I fully understand that I am probably turing this into more of a mountain than it needs to be. I tend to do that but it is simply out of a strong desire to understand fully. For those who understand the daunting nature of developing a fundamental and solid understanding of film testing, I understand that I am asking for an explanation of a very daunting subject matter and I appreciate any help that is offered. Looking forward to reading your responses! ]]> Fragomeni http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66313 http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66310&goto=newpost Sun, 05 Sep 2010 00:49:03 GMT I've been using a Combiplan T to develop my B/W film, and it seems to take forever for the film to dry.

Maybe I'm doing it wrong?

I've been leaving them in the frame, and placing them under a small desk lamp, thinking it'd make the remaining water evaporate faster.

But they seem to take forever, especially the inner sheets, and it seems to attract dust.

What's the right way to dry my film?


// Wally ]]> Wally http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66310 http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66287&goto=newpost Sat, 04 Sep 2010 08:56:57 GMT Kodak Medical X-Ray Film General Purpose Green (MXG) ..i really need some help with this guy .
1.can i use Tmax Dev with this film "i have xtol as well ..
2.which one is the emulsion side ?
3.what is the speed of this film "100 or 400 iso ?"
4.many thanks ]]> GOLDFISH http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66287 http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66284&goto=newpost Sat, 04 Sep 2010 03:30:12 GMT My film is drying in a way that leaves almost a border in an "L" shape along one long and one short side. It is an "L" shaped area of less density on the negative that only shows up on occasion. It is located always on the notch code edge and side closest to the notch code. I hang my film from the notch code corner. I use a jobo 3010 expert drum to process my film with the notch code oriented at the upper left. I put my film in the holder with the notch code in the lower left, thus rise and bellows sag are ruled out I feel. Could film drying unevenly leave an area I have described? Thank you all in advance for any answers. ]]> Jordan http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66284 http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66270&goto=newpost Fri, 03 Sep 2010 19:16:35 GMT Five buyers have paid for Efke 11x14 25 film to meet Freestyle's requirements.

Ordering is closed effective noon today.

Buyers are:

Joe Kenney
Michael Kadilliak
Jim Fitzgerald
Joe Kras
Robert Fisher

Best Regards,

Robert Fisher ]]> Robert Fisher http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66270 http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66224&goto=newpost Thu, 02 Sep 2010 16:49:59 GMT I want to try this but, don't have the guts.

Can anyone share their positive experiences/techniques?

thanx ]]> Pawlowski6132 http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=66224