Stand developing in Jobo 3010

[LF_rookie_to_be]

'd be interested to learn about your experiences with stand processing in Jobo 3010. Just did Efke 50 4x5 in 1:100 R09 One Shot - not entirely successfully. Measurd each compartment to hold a little under 500ml, poured 25ml of Rodinal in 2,45 l of distilled water and left it in for 60 minutes with constant rotation of the drum in vertical position (didn't want to risk turning it horizontally) for the first 5 minutes, then occasional turn every 6-10 minutes subsequently. Acetic acid stop, Ilford rapid fixer - possibly too long, 30-minute wash, PhotoFlo. Underdeveloped. Not significantly, but enough to demant 50-70 M filtration to print well on MGIV FB Warmtone. Where did I screw up?

[Brian C. Miller]

Right off hand, don't do that. You either need to agitate it more, or just flat out let it sit in the fridge. The Jobo drum was designed for continuous agitation, and of course that's where you'll get the best results with it.

See if you can find a reference to Mortensen refrigerator development. Basically, load up your film, pour in ice cold developer, shake like a maniac, and put it in the fridge. About twice a day, give the film a good shake. This takes three to five days. I've done it once as an experiment with Ilfosol and it worked just fine with Fuji Acros. After five days it was denser than I like, but printable and there were no problems evident. I have not done any rigorous testing of the method, but it does seem to be quite valid.

[onnect17]

Why are you using a 3010 for that? why not a yankee tank or even a nikor?

[chuck94022]

Now I'm confused in two ways. First, why would anyone ever do stand development in a Jobo 3010??? And second, why would anyone develop film with refrigerated water for days in a fridge?

[Ed Bray]

They could use the Taco method to develop using a Stand technique. Only 4 at a time though.

[Brian C. Miller]

And second, why would anyone develop film with refrigerated water for days in a fridge?

Because it did something to the surface of the film. William Mortensen did it because Tri-X emulsion would change to give a certain "granite" look to the subject. I used Fuji Acros, and it resulted in a nicely developed negative. I haven't done any testing other than the one roll to see what kind of effects it would have in regards to stand development.

[Steve Sherman]

'd be interested to learn about your experiences with stand processing in Jobo 3010. Just did Efke 50 4x5 in 1:100 R09 One Shot - not entirely successfully. Measurd each compartment to hold a little under 500ml, poured 25ml of Rodinal in 2,45 l of distilled water and left it in for 60 minutes with constant rotation of the drum in vertical position (didn't want to risk turning it horizontally) for the first 5 minutes, then occasional turn every 6-10 minutes subsequently. Acetic acid stop, Ilford rapid fixer - possibly too long, 30-minute wash, PhotoFlo. Underdeveloped. Not significantly, but enough to demant 50-70 M filtration to print well on MGIV FB Warmtone. Where did I screw up?

At the required dilution for stand developing each cylinder would not contact enough inherit developer to properly develop the sheet of film unless agitated to the point to negate the effects of Reduced Agitation Developing techniques.

Refrigerated developer will develop film when properly tested, the result would be swelled / unusual grain patterns most likely for a different look or effect

Cheers !

[LF_rookie_to_be]

What if there's even more developer, say close to 3 litres, so that it actually overflows the cylinders? All of this, as opposed to cluttering up with new gear, for the joy of using the 3010 drum, which is basically the main reason I ventured into large format in the first place (mostly color, really). R09 isn't very expensive, and there's hardly any more room left in my fridge!

[Jac@stafford.net]

Use a Combi-Plan system and be happy. The 3010 introduces more problems than necessary.

Less agitation, proper dilution this time.

You do not need to refrigerate Rodinal or R09.

[Larry Gebhardt]

I imagine the 3010 drum and Rodinal 1+100 should work, but I haven't tried it. I have read you need 10ml of Rodinal per 8x10 equivalent. So you should have had 10ml x 2.5 = 25ml (assuming all 10 sheets). Looks like you met that requirement. My guess is that you just didn't give it enough time, or the temp was too low. Try it for 90 minutes next time.

[LF_rookie_to_be]

There were six sheets of Efke 50 in. Didn't presoak, though. Could that cause some issues with such long developing times with Efke films? Temperature in my darkroom is always at 21-22°C, so it's probably the combination of just a tad too little dev and time.

[Steve Sherman]

My understanding and working methodology with this type development dictates that only one sheet be processed per container of chemistry. Multiple containers can be used to speed the process of developing ones film but results are best when time / temperature and dilution are tailored to the specific needs of each negative.

See this link for a more detailed discussion on the possibilities of Reduced Agitation Development http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/24023-semi-stand-description-illustratvie-photo.html

Cheers !

[Jac@stafford.net]

Mr. Sherman's response is very much appreciated. I do not yet understand his recommendation to do only one film in a tank at a time. Perhaps he will enlighten me.

One thing I wish to bring up is the idea of 'edge development' with stand development. My favorite film is Ilford 100. Never have I found edge development of this very fine film, or any other. Is it an illusion?

[Ian Gordon Bilson]

Having stand-processed Efke film in Rodinal-a couple of suggestions : Do presoak. Don't use acid stop. In stand developing,you can get away with less than 10ml per 8x10in equivalent.