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KentBlomgren
4-Dec-2012, 23:31
Got some problem with my enlarger. It should do a self test seqvens when it's started and then be ready to use. Mine starts focusing then it stops, no input can be done on the opto ecu. What could be the problem?

gary mulder
5-Dec-2012, 07:39
To be honest you chances are slim.
Please describe what is does when you turn it on.
Normal it will ;

- rise to the limit switch
- the lens carrier moves down to the limit switch
- the head moves slowly down to the ref. piont
- lens carrier moves approx 1 mm up to the ref. point
- all filters swing out to the limit switch
- the timer display is loaded
- The lamp goes on. The fan is running.
- An exposure cycle starts
- The lamp goes off.

Do you get to this point ?

KentBlomgren
5-Dec-2012, 11:15
Thanks for the reply I´m not ready to give up yet :-)

What it does on start up is focusing all the way out (that´s the limit switch I guess) then it just stopped. No other movements was made. The enlarger lamp are also turned on it seems. What ever button I push on the ecu does not move it and the display only shows the Durst set up text.

It probably worked before it was stored by the previous owner because the focus was all the way in the other direction. as it is now I can´t even move it manually by the remote or by the keyboard. That makes me wonder if the problem are with in the ecu or in the enlarger it self.

Very nice to here from another optopia owner by the way. I thought I was the only one for a while.

Any tips and knowledge you have about the machine and resources are most useful.

Kent Blomgren
Sweden

gary mulder
5-Dec-2012, 12:29
The processor is located in the ecu.
On boot-up it follows a series checks. Your machine halts on one of them.

You can check the memory backup battery. It is located under the keyboard on the print that you see when you lift the keyboard. The battery should have more than 3,5 volt.
If that is not the case you can try to recharge it by keeping the eco on for at least 6 hours. Or replace. After that turn it off and after ± 5 minutes turn it on again.
The display will remain as on your picture until it has successfully has booted up. So knowing in which stage it errors is essential.

KentBlomgren
5-Dec-2012, 13:24
Great advise, I will try it as soon as possible tomorrow. much appreciated. thanks a lot:) I ´ll post again tomorrow

KentBlomgren
6-Dec-2012, 01:48
I think I will start with recharging the battery first, although I´m not really sure where it´s located under the keyboard (see posted picture). do you know if there are any repair manual or wiring diagram available.

gary mulder
6-Dec-2012, 02:34
As I remember the battery is the thing I pointed out with red.

KentBlomgren
6-Dec-2012, 08:13
I measured the battery after 6 hours of charging (or the battery's there´s two) and they both held 3,6 volts. So I guess changing them won´t improve anything as far as the start up procedure goes.
When I tested it again it was the same as before, the motor for the lens carrier makes i little noise but as it is already at the end stop nothing else happens.
So I really don´t know what the problem is.
Do you know of any company or person that repairs these enlargers? I´ve tried mailing Durst but they couldn't help me.

gary mulder
6-Dec-2012, 11:32
Sorry to hear that you can not determine in which stage of the start-up sequence it halts.

In Sweden it will be a problem to find someone that does repairs on durst analog.

KentBlomgren
6-Dec-2012, 14:30
Well it stoped at the stage where the lens carrier hit bottom and the head did not go to the ref. Point. What could be the problem in that case?

winterclock
6-Dec-2012, 17:59
The problem could be with the limit switch, if it is going past it and bottoming out. Try testing the limit switch with an ohmeter.

gary mulder
7-Dec-2012, 00:34
Ok, At the moment your problem is that the head does not move vertically.

So check limit swich on the left side of the head against column. As winterclock suggests
If that does not help

Next
Open up the vertical part of the ecu from the aft side.
You will see two identical prints. These are the power electronics controlling the movement of the head and the lens stage. If one of them looks burnt you have your problem. This happens wen the unit is operated with not enough head room and gets stuck. If you swop the prints from position and one of them is the problem the movement of the head will be restored but the lens stage will have problems.

KentBlomgren
7-Dec-2012, 02:09
Ok I will check these things get back to you, It doesn't ´t have vertical movement at all so this seem ´s like an logical explanation.
Thank you for the advise.

KentBlomgren
10-Dec-2012, 06:08
Frankenstein came to life for a couple of seconds today :-) I switched the Two control boards and the head went up to the top. The filter motor sounds like it's working to. And the lamp is on, but that's it. No more movements. Where can I get a control board or boards? thank you for sharing your knowledge Gary.

gary mulder
10-Dec-2012, 10:37
Kent,

Is the board unrepairable ? These boards are horrible expensive (500 - 600 euro refurbished ). It also depends on what you are going to do with the machine. For color prints it is worth the trouble. For BW only if you do a lot of prints in different formats.
If you are comfortable repairing electronics and no how to use a oscilloscope please PM me your email adress then I will try to point in the right direction. Otherwise you will have to decide if it is worth the money. Or try at Durst USA if they have a board for a fair price.

Anders_62
10-Dec-2012, 15:24
Hej Kent
Det bästa du kan göra är att kontakta Svenne Svensson. Han kan dessa maskiner på sina fem fingrar. Han har jobbat på både Molanders och Durst USA. Han bor i Kalmar nu.

Mvh Anders

KentBlomgren
10-Dec-2012, 15:48
Jag ska absolut fråga honom, jag är ingen expert själv.

KentBlomgren
11-Dec-2012, 01:13
The bord looks ok on the outside, nothing broken or burnt, It would be great If it can be repaired. 500-600 euro for one board is more then I paid for the Optopia it self. But I consider it if that´s the only way. I´m not an electronic wizard my self but I´m sure I can get it done with some help, bear with me. First I got to find an oscilloscope.

KentBlomgren
13-Dec-2012, 14:30
I'will try to change some default components. Thanks for all your help. I'll post again next week

KentBlomgren
15-Dec-2012, 02:01
Faulty I mean

KentBlomgren
28-Dec-2012, 06:17
Made some progress today. Got pass the startup phase and into setup menu

gary mulder
28-Dec-2012, 09:53
Congratulations it's in working order !

KentBlomgren
3-Jan-2013, 04:30
Thank you :-) and thank you for all your help. I think there are some more problems though. It finish with an exposure on start up and it's possible to make input on the ECU. But it does not respond in manual mode by the remote. And I suspect there should be more vertical movements on startup. I switched the boards again but then it got stuck in setup. Maybe there is component problems in the other board as well. But I still have hope :-)

gary mulder
3-Jan-2013, 06:55
It probably needs reprogramming. All data will be lost after a long time not been recharged. Even in manual mode is not so manual as you think. It's always a closed loop system. ;-)
I hope you can get it back to the stage of the picture from 28 dec. If that is the case. press start. button right under on the panel. What does it do then ?

KentBlomgren
10-Jan-2013, 01:13
Hi again! I got it back on track and pressed the start Button. The only thing that happend was that it jumped out of manual mode, the indicator lamp was turned of. Nothing happens if I press it again.

KentBlomgren
10-Jan-2013, 01:19
The lamp on the panel87010

gary mulder
10-Jan-2013, 02:37
After pressing start it should go to the last known position. As I understand the head stays in top position and the lens stage in bottom position ?
Do you have a memory printout ?
Can you make one ?
For a memory printout press 007 start.

KentBlomgren
11-Jan-2013, 01:34
I prints but it's out of color so I can' read it. Does it show up on the display as well? You are right about the position of the head. The only way I can move the head are by Pressing the film holder Button. If I then restart it the head goes to the top position again.

gary mulder
11-Jan-2013, 04:39
As I suspected the memory is blanked out. You will have to reprogram the machine. The factory calibrations for your specific machine will be helpful here. Did it come with documentation ?

KentBlomgren
12-Jan-2013, 02:45
Yes it did :) I got the original manual and the enlarger is from 1990. I will start reading the about the programing. It's a lots of steps to go through. On thing I don't have is the calibration negativ.

kernel
5-Oct-2013, 13:00
Hi Kent!

Did you manage to start up the enlarger in the end?
I have some issues with mine aswell, different problems though. I'd still be interested how it went.
Also, i've found a photo of a focusing test negative, which (being a positive) was useless , but i've spend some hours in photoshop to create a new that i printed out on a transparent film. Not sure it's proper though.

gary mulder
6-Oct-2013, 03:21
The only function you will need from a test negative is a lineair scale with which you can measure the magnification. That is for calibrating the autofocus. For color it's best to use a test negative made with the film you normally use.

KentBlomgren
6-Oct-2013, 06:23
Hello Gary, I got a new job and have not had so much time for the old durst. It still got some problems during start up. My guess is there is more faulty components. I hope to get it working and find time for it. Well that's about how far the progress have come. I have also joined a foto club. I've just started working on our website. Check it out (only swedish so far). Have a nice day!

KentBlomgren
6-Oct-2013, 06:57
www.sandvikensfotoklubb.hemsida24.se (forgot the adress)

gary mulder
6-Oct-2013, 07:54
www.sandvikensfotoklubb.hemsida24.se (forgot the adress)

Ok much better. I had a look at the web address in your profile. Some of my pictures are at www.garymulder.nl/fotografie

KentBlomgren
6-Oct-2013, 08:33
Nice pictures, impressive with the 8x10 landscape shots.

kernel
7-Oct-2013, 01:06
Hi Gary!

You seem to know a thing or two about this enlarger, my hopes are up again. I've spent quite some hours setting up auto focusing, but run into walls.
Here's the problem:
After entering the setup code, a series of questions are asked:
Enter focal length
Enter HH
Focus manually
Measure projected image of 10 mm, enter

My 150mm lens are being shipped at the moment, so I've tried with the 50 and 80 mm lenses available without any luck.
For the 50 mm, my answers were:
Focal length: 52.7
HH: -6.5
After this i focused manually, but have no idea what i should measure or enter. The 10mm scale is projected on the baseboard, and it is 750 mm wide. Now that value is too large to enter. Or at least on enter it say magnification is out of range.
I'm sure I'm doing it wrong, can you please tell me how should this be done?
I also haven't the faintest idea what hh is.

Thanks!

kernel
7-Oct-2013, 02:04
Forgot to mention that mine is a laborator 1200, not the Optopia. But I guess the process should be the same

gary mulder
7-Oct-2013, 04:51
AFIK the max magnification with the Optopia and a 50 mm lens is 26x. So the projection of 10mm will be around 260 mm How do you get 750mm That will be a 75x magnification ?

kernel
7-Oct-2013, 06:07
Guess me having a laborator 1200 instead of the optopia makes difference. Thing is that if i measure the 10 mm scale on the test negative, it's approximately 70 mm. Must be a faulty copy of the original negative. I'll try again as soon as I get home, and get back to you

gary mulder
7-Oct-2013, 06:49
A negative with two scratches 10 mm apart will do the trick. That is also easier to measure in the dark room. You have to measure the projection with 0,1 accuracy. Or make a print and measure

kernel
8-Oct-2013, 02:47
Great, thanks for the tip. Scratches on a negative worked all right.