Mounting lens without the original flange~

[pierre506]

83033
This ring is the way I found in this forum.

Thanks the one who shared the idea.

I used such kind of rings to fix my Vitax behind the lens board without the original flange.

[pierre506]

83034

Today, I found another ring which also could provide the function as above rings.

Please share any idea for mounting the lens without the original flange if you have the idea.

[E. von Hoegh]

83034



Please share any idea for mounting the lens without the original flange if you have the idea.

Measure the threads on the lens barrel/shutter, machine a new flange on a lathe.

[Corran]

Because everyone has a lathe in their garage. Even in China.

[E. von Hoegh]

Because everyone has a lathe in their garage. Even in China.

He asked for ideas. That's how I'd do it.

Just what is your problem, anyway?

[Corran]

What problem?

In years gone by, yeah many people might've had a lathe, or knew someone who did, but heck, a lot of my folks my age these days don't even own a hammer and screwdrivers (which admittedly drives me nuts). It's kind of like suggesting to someone looking for camera to just build one. Obviously most people aren't going to have the tools, know-how, or inclination to do that, even if it was the "best" option.

[E. von Hoegh]

What problem?

In years gone by, yeah many people might've had a lathe, or knew someone who did, but heck, a lot of my folks my age these days don't even own a hammer and screwdrivers (which admittedly drives me nuts). It's kind of like suggesting to someone looking for camera to just build one. Obviously most people aren't going to have the tools, know-how, or inclination to do that, even if it was the "best" option.

He asked for ideas. I posted my idea. Kindly keep your snide remarks to yourself.

[Corran]

Fine. Here goes:

(...)

[E. von Hoegh]

Fine. Here goes:

(...)

Cogratulations. You just made it back to my ignore list of one. Every time I take you off it, you act like a snotty, spoiled, passive-aggressive child, so back you go permanently.

[Corran]

You should lighten up.

[Tracy Storer]

For "flangeless" lens mounting, there is always the famous "Universal Lens Mount" aka "Iris Lens Clamp" aka "Lens Chuck".
Steel hose clamps could damage the threads on the lens. (I've never seen a steel lens barrel, they're always something softer like brass, aluminum, etc.)
The rubber timing belt option is safer for the threads, but maybe more likely to stretch and fail.

I'm with EVH above, doing it right is always best, get a proper flange made, or at least, use a ULM which won't damage the lens for the next guy.

[Len Middleton]

I guess I pay too much for my lenses (or too cheap) and therefore risk adverse.

Everything I have either has a flange that I can use, or failing that I have that big Iris Lens Clamp (sorry Tracy cannot really figure out what to call it) I bought from eddie to use.

I tried to buy my lenses with the flanges wherever possible, although I have purchased flanges as well. Once I found what it cost to buy a flange from the manufacturer's, then I ensured that the lenses I got had flanges, or would not buy without a significant discount.

Maybe I need to buy cheaper lenses to get out of my risk aversion, or maybe not...

[IanG]

I took my flange-less Petzval lens to a Camera Fair to try and find it a mate and as luck would have it found one.

One member of this foum recommends MrCad in the UK (Croydon) who carries quite a stock of old flanges however you have to sort through for yourself which means it's impractical for people who can't travel there. One or two other UK dealers have a selection of flanges, MWClassic sorted one out for a TTH Cooke lens for me last month.

There are people on this forum who can make flanges, so E. von Hoegh's suggestion is quite valid, but ideally the person making the flange needs the lens to do their own measurements.

Over the past 2 or 3 years I've acquired a few flanges which none of my lenses fit and I guess I'd be willing to swap these.

Ian

[CP Goerz]

I once came across an old flange that was pretty large and had been saw 'open' at one point, the previous owner then took a pipe clamp and soldered it onto the flange allowing it to be adjusted slightly with a screwdriver. I think this idea may work for other lenses but only if you have a flange thats a few MM's off in size.

[CP Goerz]

PS:I also have a big @ss box of flanges but I'd need the barrel to try them on....

[E. von Hoegh]

I once came across an old flange that was pretty large and had been saw 'open' at one point, the previous owner then took a pipe clamp and soldered it onto the flange allowing it to be adjusted slightly with a screwdriver. I think this idea may work for other lenses but only if you have a flange thats a few MM's off in size.

I had one lens which came with an oversize flange, a few turns of teflon plumber's tape made it fit securely without graunching anything. I later found a flange to fit that shutter in a box of odd flanges at a camera shop.

[E. von Hoegh]

For "flangeless" lens mounting, there is always the famous "Universal Lens Mount" aka "Iris Lens Clamp" aka "Lens Chuck".
Steel hose clamps could damage the threads on the lens. (I've never seen a steel lens barrel, they're always something softer like brass, aluminum, etc.)
The rubber timing belt option is safer for the threads, but maybe more likely to stretch and fail.

I'm with EVH above, doing it right is always best, get a proper flange made, or at least, use a ULM which won't damage the lens for the next guy.

One could cut one of the timing belts to the proper length and use it to cushion the steel hose clamp, while deciding whether it's worth going out to the garage and cutting a proper flange on the lathe.

[rjmeyer314]

I have mounted lenses on a few home-made wooden lens boards by cutting a hole with a hole saw and threading the lens directly into the wood. It is obviously very dependent on finding the right size hole saw. You can also use a fly-cutter to make the hole if no hole saw is available in the correct size.

[rdenney]

One could cut one of the timing belts to the proper length and use it to cushion the steel hose clamp, while deciding whether it's worth going out to the garage and cutting a proper flange on the lathe.

I've done that, but even simpler. I wrapped the threads with black photo tape. I then took some small pieces of sheet metal and bent them into an "L" shape, like a shelf bracket, but only perhaps a quarter inch on a side. I put three of those under a radiator hose clamp, and slipped it over the threads on the back side of the board. Covered it all up with photo tape to reduce its shininess, and used it that way for a long time. That was before the Internet, and I had no money, so I had to make do with what I could find.

Since that time, awareness and disposable income has provided me with a very nice flange for that lens made by S.K. Grimes. But I paid about $75 for it.

Rick "who did not bugger up the threads by doing this" Denney

[Jim Galli]

I have mounted lenses on a few home-made wooden lens boards by cutting a hole with a hole saw and threading the lens directly into the wood. It is obviously very dependent on finding the right size hole saw. You can also use a fly-cutter to make the hole if no hole saw is available in the correct size.

I do it this way with a router and router table. You can get pretty precise so the threads are engaging the wood. Then I put a bead of hot glue on the other side. Hot glue can be peeled off later. A large-ish good quality tie-wrap can give some extra insurance also with this scheme. This is one reason I love the old Kodak 2D. Lots of home made boards, lots of old lenses without their flanges, lots of images made that way.

But CP Goerz has given me an idea. I also have a big-ass box of flanges that consistently never fit a d@mn thing I buy that needs a flange. Maybe if I traded my big-ass box with CP's big-ass box we'd both find some winners for our losers.

[Mark Sawyer]

Steel hose clamps could damage the threads on the lens. (I've never seen a steel lens barrel, they're always something softer like brass, aluminum, etc.)

I've posted on using the hose clamp method before, but I always use a rubber gasket (cut from sewer hose connectors) to protect the lens. I also paint the clamps flat black, (these were unpainted to show better in the photo):

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g139/Owen21k/IMG_6091.jpg

[Jim Galli]

I've posted on using the hose clamp method before, but I always use a rubber gasket (cut from sewer hose connectors) to protect the lens. I also paint the clamps flat black, (these were unpainted to show better in the photo):


First Class red neck lens mounting there Mark!

[John Kasaian]

A tank to bowl toilet rubber gasket will work if it doesn't interfere with the light trap. There are a few different IDs with considerbale stretch to them.

[alex from holland]

The lens clamp is the answer for all your missing flanges.
The biggest one holds a dallmeyer 3a without a problem.

http://collodion-art.blogspot.nl/2012/03/universal-iris-clamp.html

[Hermes07]

For those in the UK, I'll happily put in a recommendation for SRB-Griturn - http://www.srb-griturn.com/

They've done a couple of VERY large custom flanges for me on barrel lenses. Be sure to send the lens in so they can get it right.

Like SK Grimes, they're not cheap but for a decent lens it's worth getting a proper flange made. For a cheap lens or a test, one of these normally does me:- http://www.hoses.co.uk/clamps-clips/rubber-lined/epdm-rubber-lined-clip-m8-m10

[Keith Fleming]

equinoxphotographic.com in Oregon says they have many flanges, but they must have the lens barrel sent to them to ensure proper fitting.

Keith

[mike rosenlof]

I would not do this with a good lens, but I mounted a sort of junky lens in barrel to a sort of junky Technika lens board with JB Weld. Turns out the lens is decently sharp, but still not valuable. Not really recommended, but it does work.

The first photo I made with that same lens was stuck through a too-big (probably no. 3) lensboard and held in with a "retaining ring" made of cardboard. That also worked, but wasn't the most stable or long lasting attachment.

[Mark Sawyer]

First Class red neck lens mounting there Mark!

A real redneck would use duct-tape... :rolleyes:

[IanG]

Crude as it might sound I have a 1913 165mm f6.3 Tessar in a Dial-set Compur screwed into a Wooden lens board and locked in place with a touch of matt acrylic paint. The lens will unscrew if I want to remove it and the paint will just peel away leaving no trace.

I've also screwed a lens into th front of a Thornton Pickard Roller blind shutter, again there's no compomising the threads as it's into a paint surface (hard to explain) but it works well. Of course in both cases I'd rather have a flange/retaining ring but the cost of paying someone to make one is more than I paid for the lenses :D

Mark Sawyer's Jubilee clip option is good but won't work with the lens fitted to the TP shutter, the Tessra is very small and light for a 165mm lens and the daub of paint is more than enough security :)

Ian

[pierre506]

Measure the threads on the lens barrel/shutter, machine a new flange on a lathe.

Dear Hoegh,
Yep, I asked a technician to machine the new flanges for the lenses I need the shutter.
For instance, the Heliar 360mm, the lens I need the shutter for negative shooting. So it has the machined flange onto Sinar Auto shutter.
83070

[pierre506]

For "flangeless" lens mounting, there is always the famous "Universal Lens Mount" aka "Iris Lens Clamp" aka "Lens Chuck".
Steel hose clamps could damage the threads on the lens. (I've never seen a steel lens barrel, they're always something softer like brass, aluminum, etc.)
The rubber timing belt option is safer for the threads, but maybe more likely to stretch and fail.

I'm with EVH above, doing it right is always best, get a proper flange made, or at least, use a ULM which won't damage the lens for the next guy.

Dear Tracy,
The universal iris lens mount is a good idea for the small lenes.
I found that the Saltzman 8X10 enlarger's extension tube has such kind of mount.
So I dismantled it and put it on the Sinar lens board.
It can bear the barrel's max size--60mm.
It's really good and convenient for the small and wide angle lenses.
83075
Then, I wanted to find the more bigger one for a while.
I gave up the idea finally because I found the bigger lenses on such kind of mounts were very dangerous.

[pierre506]

I've posted on using the hose clamp method before, but I always use a rubber gasket (cut from sewer hose connectors) to protect the lens. I also paint the clamps flat black, (these were unpainted to show better in the photo):

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g139/Owen21k/IMG_6091.jpg

Dear Mark,
I'd done the same way as you for the big barrel lenses.
83076

[alex from holland]

83096

I have been using these clamps for a few years no.
No problems whatsoever. It's standard on my camera
I mainly use it with a Hermagis petzval lens with a weight of about 1.7 kilo.
Recently did a test with a Dallmeyer 3a which even weighs about 3 kilo.
In the picture you can see it holding a dallmeyer 3B

so when used at the right way, these things are very handy and not dangerous at all.

Alex


Dear Tracy,
The universal iris lens mount is a good idea for the small lenes.
I found that the Saltzman 8X10 enlarger's extension tube has such kind of mount.
So I dismantled it and put it on the Sinar lens board.
It can bear the barrel's max size--60mm.
It's really good and convenient for the small and wide angle lenses.
83075
Then, I wanted to find the more bigger one for a while.
I gave up the idea finally because I found the bigger lenses on such kind of mounts were very dangerous.

[pierre506]

83096

I have been using these clamps for a few years no.
No problems whatsoever. It's standard on my camera
I mainly use it with a Hermagis petzval lens with a weight of about 1.7 kilo.
Recently did a test with a Dallmeyer 3a which even weighs about 3 kilo.
In the picture you can see it holding a dallmeyer 3B

so when used at the right way, these things are very handy and not dangerous at all.

Alex

Dear Alex,
I love your collodion plates very much.
I also learnt a lot from your blogs and flickr.
You are always making the great plates as I said before.

I trusted in you about the giant universal iris mount can bear the large lenses stably in horizontal direction according to your pics and description.
I thought that it may be good for portraits and normal pics.
However, I still have a question.
Can the giant universal iris mount bear the large lenses stably in vertical direction, such as the big tilt/thift, or other movements by the front stand?
I just show an example.
83157

[BrianShaw]

A real redneck would use duct-tape... :rolleyes:

Yes, because a real red-neck probably doesn't have a sewer from which to remove the gaskets... only an outhouse.

[jumanji]

My cant-be-simplier solution :cool:

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj233/onlinedem/IMG_20121107_125050.jpg

I roll a rubber cord around the barrel. Do it even with an almost 5 lbs lens and it's still very stable.
It looks odd but very easy to do, dirty cheap and solid like a rock.

[alex from holland]

Yes it can.

even if you hold the combination upside down it won't fall out.

Alex

Dear Alex,
I love your collodion plates very much.
I also learnt a lot from your blogs and flickr.
You are always making the great plates as I said before.

I trusted in you about the giant universal iris mount can bear the large lenses stably in horizontal direction according to your pics and description.
I thought that it may be good for portraits and normal pics.
However, I still have a question.
Can the giant universal iris mount bear the large lenses stably in vertical direction, such as the big tilt/thift, or other movements by the front stand?
I just show an example.
83157

[Joe Smigiel]

That's a pretty iris clamp Alex. I've never seen a brass one before.


The lens clamp is the answer for all your missing flanges.
The biggest one holds a dallmeyer 3a without a problem.

http://collodion-art.blogspot.nl/2012/03/universal-iris-clamp.html

[Ian Gordon Bilson]

My highly prized 150/5.6 EL Nikkor came,as they often do,without the retaining ring. I greased up the threads with petroleum jelly,and molded Epoxy Putty into a collar. The jelly allowed the putty to press into the threads without bonding,so the lens can be unscrewed if needed.

[Spikon]

Does anyone know the dimensions of the mounting flange for a Heliar 360, threads etc?

[alex from holland]

Machining a new flange wasn't an idea. Sure he knew that himself....

[premortho]

I wondered if that would work! Thanks for telling us it does.

[premortho]

My highly prized 150/5.6 EL Nikkor came,as they often do,without the retaining ring. I greased up the threads with petroleum jelly,and molded Epoxy Putty into a collar. The jelly allowed the putty to press into the threads without bonding,so the lens can be unscrewed if needed.I've wondered if that would work! Thanks for the confirmation.

[Lightbender]

I use a hot glue gun. I even have black hot glue sticks.
The melted glue does not permanently stick to the metal. it works like a big rubber band except does not deteriorate like rubber.
If you want to remove it, just cut a notch in it and you can pull it off.

[pierre506]

159622159623

Universal clamp from Chamonix~
Largest diameter 90mm for the barrel.

[jesse]

159622159623

Universal clamp from Chamonix~
Largest diameter 90mm for the barrel.

I'm now using it, very good for barrel lens.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8136/29782438893_5caced8984_c.jpg