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Professional
18-Aug-2012, 10:33
I am planning to start shooting with LF again soon when the weather and time-situation getting fine/better with me soon, meanwhile i keep reading more about LF photography here and there, and here is one question or topic i want to get more info about it:

Which developer i can use to develop sheets in tanks?

I have HC-110 and Ilfosol 3 and TMAX and just bought D-76, i have reading on TMAX sites whether from the stores or Kodak that TMAX is not recommended for sheets or say only for rolls, well, didn't read that on HC-110.

Now if i will neglect TMAX, and was deciding to keep that HC-110 for rolls only, i bought D-76 to go with sheets only or mostly, what another developer i can go with for sheets? Also ID-11 is same as D-76 so this is neglected as well.

I bought raw chemicals to produce Rodinal, Caffenol, and would like to get raw chems for Pyrocat-HD

Note: I did use D-76 on rolls and even it is giving gret results i didn't favorite it over TMAX, not even Ilfosol 3 for some films, and HC-110 seems to be another great one that i will use over D-76 on time.

Leigh
18-Aug-2012, 12:16
I strongly recommend Diafine, which is a two-part compensating developer.
The results are consistently excellent with different films.

It works at any temperatures from 70F - 85F (21C - 29C), and does not require temperature control within that range.
Developing time is the same for all films, from 3 to 5 minutes in each solution, and is not critical within that range.
It requires minimum agitation.

These characteristics make it ideal for tank/tray development.

Large quantities of developer can be used (as in tanks) since it requires a very simple replenishment scheme.

- Leigh

Professional
18-Aug-2012, 15:20
I strongly recommend Diafine, which is a two-part compensating developer.
The results are consistently excellent with different films.

It works at any temperatures from 70F - 85F (21C - 29C), and does not require temperature control within that range.
Developing time is the same for all films, from 3 to 5 minutes in each solution, and is not critical within that range.
It requires minimum agitation.

These characteristics make it ideal for tank/tray development.

Large quantities of developer can be used (as in tanks) since it requires a very simple replenishment scheme.

- Leigh

I see, good, i have one box not used yet, was planning to keep that for rolls push/pull processing only, maybe it is time to buy another one for sheets only.

Thanks.

Leigh
18-Aug-2012, 16:18
One nice thing about Diafine (and some other two-part developers) is that it keeps almost forever. Store it in a dark cabinet.

- Leigh

Lenny Eiger
18-Aug-2012, 16:22
Xtol. Much better that D76. Or Pyro...

Lenny

Professional
18-Aug-2012, 16:30
One nice thing about Diafine (and some other two-part developers) is that it keeps almost forever. Store it in a dark cabinet.

- Leigh

Yes, i heard about it, this is a big plus for me, so i am planning to get another Diafine just for LF 4x5.


Xtol. Much better that D76. Or Pyro...

Lenny

I have XTOL, but its storage shelf life is short and it may exhaust even before i know that, and that 5L to mix is a pain in......, so i will keep this developer for the future when i will shoot in range of 20-60 sheets, so i can burn those 5L quick without wasting much of it before expired life of XTOL.

Pyro... got mt attention last months ago or since last year, the more i read about it the more i want to get this developer, i may go with one of it and see.

Tareq

Leigh
18-Aug-2012, 16:53
One point regarding Diafine that I forgot to mention... very important.

Take great care to avoid contamination of Solution A with anything else.

Get a complete set of vessels (including measuring graduates) and utensils and use those only for for Solution A.

- Leigh

Professional
19-Aug-2012, 01:59
One point regarding Diafine that I forgot to mention... very important.

Take great care to avoid contamination of Solution A with anything else.

Get a complete set of vessels (including measuring graduates) and utensils and use those only for for Solution A.

- Leigh

I really don't understand this point, i would like to have more explanations about this point so i can put it as VI instruction.

Leigh
19-Aug-2012, 02:07
Hi,

You do not want to get any other chemicals mixed in with Solution A (usually caused by contamination of the containers).

It's very important that Solution A be kept absolutely pure.

I use a completely separate set of vessels and utensils for A. Those tools are not used for any other chemical.

Solution B always gets contaminated with Solution A during normal processing. That does not matter.
The other chemicals downstream (stop and fix) are normally contaminated by carry-over from earlier solutions anyway.

It's only Solution A that you need to be careful with.

- Leigh

Professional
19-Aug-2012, 02:39
Hi,

You do not want to get any other chemicals mixed in with Solution A (usually caused by contamination of the containers).

It's very important that Solution A be kept absolutely pure.

I use a completely separate set of vessels and utensils for A. Those tools are not used for any other chemical.

Solution B always gets contaminated with Solution A during normal processing. That does not matter.
The other chemicals downstream (stop and fix) are normally contaminated by carry-over from earlier solutions anyway.

It's only Solution A that you need to be careful with.

- Leigh

OK, i will see if i can do something for that, will buy separate containers[measuring, storage,.....etc].

Professional
19-Aug-2012, 02:44
Well, for now i feel i will go with 2 developers: D-76 which i got it week ago, and caffenol which i have the materials to produce. Diafine i will hold on of it, XTOL i have but this is a risky developer to use and discard it when exhaust quick so not to waste it.

I am looking for getting Pyrocat-HD, i feel i want to use this one for rolls and sheets, but not sure to buy the ready one or buy the raw chemicals to produce one specific formula that some recommended me to use, i also have ID-11 which is same as D-76, so i will run out those 2-3 developers and look forward another options.

Jim Shanesy
19-Aug-2012, 08:23
This website (http://www.pyrocat-hd.com/#sandy) will tell you everything you need to know to make many different Pyrocat variations. I buy the ready made version from Bostick & Sullivan (http://www.bostick-sullivan.com/cart/home.php?cat=124), as I find it difficult to get all the potassium carbonate into solution when mixing my own.

Professional
19-Aug-2012, 09:31
This website (http://www.pyrocat-hd.com/#sandy) will tell you everything you need to know to make many different Pyrocat variations. I buy the ready made version from Bostick & Sullivan (http://www.bostick-sullivan.com/cart/home.php?cat=124), as I find it difficult to get all the potassium carbonate into solution when mixing my own.

Thanks!

I know that website, it is one of the recommended sites i have been given to read, so you also gave it to me as a proof.