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View Full Version : 11x14 Premo dryplate holder - repairable?



Kimberly Anderson
4-Mar-2012, 14:59
I have this 11x14 dryplate holder marked The Premo Camera PATJULY101890

One of the darkslides is warped from where it sat in some water for a while, the center septum which is made out of brown/reddish cardboard is also very warped, the other darkslide is decent and the holder itself seems to be in fairly good condition.

It came with two aluminum inserts to use 14x10 film (at least those are the measurements), and they are marked on the back ALCOA .020" ANA AN-A-12ST 24 S-T

I am wondering if I can turn this into a half-decent wet-plate holder or if it's worth more to someone looking for parts for a plate holder they might have of their own.

Thanks!

Pics later...

Brian C. Miller
4-Mar-2012, 15:08
Compression will straighten the warped pieces. However, this will take some time, like months.

When it was decided to turn the Pittock Mansion (http://pittockmansion.org/) into a museum, they found that there was a lot of repair work to be done. In one of the bedrooms the windows had broken, and the floor boards had become warped from rain water blowing in on them. One of the original builders told them to place large water barrels full of water on the boards, and they would straighten out under the load. It took about six months, but it worked just fine.

Kimberly Anderson
4-Mar-2012, 15:53
As a regular visitor to said mansion I can attest to the efficacy of such repairs.

TheDeardorffGuy
4-Mar-2012, 19:43
If you can unglue the frame to get the septum out a dry mount press makes quick work of flatening it. When I was rebuilding my old holders I could not pull the darkslides out. I sprayed both sides of the DS's with water and put them in the drymount press at 170degrees (measured by a meat thermometer) for an hour then flip it and heat the other side. Then with it still in the press, turn the press off and let it sit overnight or till cool. Pull them out and they will be nice and flat. Repeat if needed.The darkslides, after they are flat coat them with clear spray lacquer. Not enamel. The lacquer will soak in the resin board and prevent the darkslides from warping or asorbing moisture.The railroad board that the septum is made from will react the same way. The adapter is just a sheet of Alcoa Aluminum. I think those are a stock number refering to a type of alloy.

Kimberly Anderson
4-Mar-2012, 20:20
Hey Ken,

Thanks for the tips! I will do the DS's like you suggest, but how the heck do I 'unglue' the frame? I don't want to ruin it!


If you can unglue the frame to get the septum out a dry mount press makes quick work of flatening it. When I was rebuilding my old holders I could not pull the darkslides out. I sprayed both sides of the DS's with water and put them in the drymount press at 170degrees (measured by a meat thermometer) for an hour then flip it and heat the other side. Then with it still in the press, turn the press off and let it sit overnight or till cool. Pull them out and they will be nice and flat. Repeat if needed.The darkslides, after they are flat coat them with clear spray lacquer. Not enamel. The lacquer will soak in the resin board and prevent the darkslides from warping or asorbing moisture.The railroad board that the septum is made from will react the same way. The adapter is just a sheet of Alcoa Aluminum. I think those are a stock number refering to a type of alloy.

TheDeardorffGuy
5-Mar-2012, 13:58
most old frames are glued with "hide glue" Putting it an oven will soften it. Try 150 and test till it pulls apart. Maybe higher? 160.. Just keep an eye on it and handle with mitts. Google hide glue melting point. see: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodworkingwithhideglue.aspx

You cant really ruin it. After you disassemple it replace the felt. The glue will wash out with hot water. Get some flakes and mix it up and reglue. I prefer a thick glue. You can use a double boiler to make it. Its like melting sugar.

Kimberly Anderson
5-Mar-2012, 16:56
Ken, can I come hang out with you for a year or so?

dwross
5-Mar-2012, 17:32
Ken, can I come hang out with you for a year or so?

+1!

TheDeardorffGuy
5-Mar-2012, 20:12
Thanks Guys. But both spare rooms are full of stuff!! Seriously if you have a wood question or mechanical question let me know. I used to recement lenses and still do shutter work. Not much I have not done in 35 years of repair

Jody_S
30-Mar-2015, 08:52
The darkslides, after they are flat coat them with clear spray lacquer. Not enamel. The lacquer will soak in the resin board and prevent the darkslides from warping or asorbing moisture.The railroad board that the septum is made from will react the same way.

I am restoring some old whole plate & 11x14 holders with cardboard darkslides. I have flattened them and lacquered with a clear coat, but they seem to be a little thicker than they used to be in some areas where they lost their original finish. Some are quite hard to slide in. I'm thinking of buffing them with beeswax, to help with the look and hopefully lubricate the edges a little. Any thoughts?

BarryS
30-Mar-2015, 10:52
My first holder for wet plate was an old dryplate holder, similar to what you've described. The truth is, it was terrible for wet plate because of all the porous surfaces. I varnished everything, but that didn't prevent a lot of issues with edge contamination. Once I switched to a converted modern holder, my problems disappeared. If you can disassemble the holder, remove the cardboard septum, and create a new septum out of plexi or aluminum to hold the plate, it would be 1000% better. I'm in the process of moving up from 8x10 to 11x14 plates and found a used modern Fidelity holder for <$200 that I'll be converting. It's a bit banged up, but should be good for a conversion.

Joe Smigiel
30-Mar-2015, 14:01
Here's how I converted an 11x14 holder to 10x12 wetplate:

131626

131627

131628

Basically, I ripped out the septum and made 4 acrylic corners that slid into the septum groove. Since there is minimum contact with the plate, there are few problems with contamination. It doesn't allow a full 11x14 plate but if I needed that I would probably route out the inside a little and add corner wires or acrylic corners rather than replacing any septum.

Jody_S
2-Apr-2015, 08:53
So, no one has ever tried lubricating older cardboard dark slides with beeswax, furniture polish, paraffin, wax paper, anything?

Basically, the same methods outlined here (http://macgyverisms.wonderhowto.com/how-to/make-sticky-stubborn-wooden-drawers-slide-more-smoothly-0146571/)for sticky drawers? I want to check before doing this, as it's irreversible I think, once the wax goes on, there's no way to get it off of cardboard. Though as I've sealed all the cardboard dark slides with lacquer, I might be able to wipe it off with a weak solvent.

Joe Smigiel
2-Apr-2015, 11:01
I've sanded a few down and then used paraffin when they weren't too bad. But, rather than take that route you might try to find some thin Garolite, styrene, or aluminum sheet and make some new slides. I think McMaster-Carr carries what you'll need.