Newbie light meter and tripod question

[alexn]

Hi everyone,

I have a few quick questions to help me get started..

I have recently purchased my first view camera and lens.. however I do not own a light meter.. I was planning to use one of my surplus Nikon DSLR's with a telephoto lens as a spot meter for the time being. Something in the realms of a 200mm~300mm lens for metering. I know the spare nikon I have has a brilliant meter, and I know the films I will be using (Providing Velvia 100 and Velvia 50 sheet film responds to light the same way the 120 roll film Velvias do) Then I should be able to meter the shadows and highlights, and with some math, figure out my overall exposure for a given scene.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

Also.. My current tripod/head set up is a Manfrotto 055XproB with a RRS BH-55 ball head. The head is able to hold 18kgs easily enough, however the tripod is rated to 8kgs.

I have shot using a Nikon D3s and Nikon 300 F/2.8 (easily 4.5kg total weight) on this tripod/head combination, however the most weight I've had on it for long exposure work is a D3X + 14-24 F/2.8 totaling about 2.6kgs.. My large format setup will be the Linhof Kardan Super Color ST and Caltar 90 F/8 plus the weight of a filter or two and film holder.. Maybe 4~5kgs... I suppose this is really a case of "try it and see" but I was wanting to get some experienced oppinions about size and strength of tripod required for a 4x5 wide angle setup.

Thanks.

Alex.

[Alan Gales]

Hello Alex,

Yes, you can use your Nikon DSLR as a light meter for your 4x5. You may eventually want something smaller. I would highly recommend a Pentax digital spot meter.

Since you all ready own the Manfrotto tripod I would try it out and see how you like it. Personally, I would hate using a ball head with a monorail but some people like that combination.

Alan

[Brian C. Miller]

I'll address the tripod issue first.
Take off your tripod ball head, and screw the camera directly on to the tripod. I have a very lightweight Benbo Trekker, and it will very easily work with the camera, provided the camera is directly on the tripod. The other tripod is a Bogen 3036, which is a really hefty beast, and it supports an 8x10 with no complaint.

There are a number of threads in the forum on metering with a DSLR. I don't do it, as early on I bought a used light meter, cheap. Later on I bought a spot meter, and then something to use with flash.

There's also something called, "The sunny f/16 rule (www.google.com/search?q=sunny+f%2F16+rule)." When it is bright and sunny, set the camera for f/16, 1/(your film speed). So when using ISO 100, set for 1/125th at f/16, and the exposure will be good enough. There's a bunch of modifiers to this, too. Also, be aware that this may not work in your locality. I had a conversation with a fellow in the UK, and it really was different for him. But where I live, it works, and I verified it one day by going outside once an hour and measuring the light in June or July.

[ki6mf]

Agree with Brian on the Ball Head! Look or a 3 way head manfrotto has heavy duty ones for approximately $180 US Dollars new http://www.manfrotto.us/3d-super-professional-head. You can ofter find older models on Craigs list or e bay for less. Tripod matter of preference usually the heavier the better. If buying new a good compromise is the Berlebach wood tripods usually can be had for under $300. I found an ugly heavy Manforto with 3 way head for $75.00 but you have to look for them. Spot meters can be had used if you look for them. I have a Pentax V analog and an Soligor analog and both work fine. Spot meters have been going for $200 +- in my local market.

[joselsgil]

Alex,

Search in your area for a Miller tripod. They were made primarily for motion picture work, but are adaptable to still photography.
I have one and it is made of wood legs. Here in the Los Angeles area, I have seen them for $100 USD.
These tripods were/are made in Australia, so they would be a local source for you :)

As for meters, I spoke to George Milton over at Quality Light Metric in Hollywood, CA. One of the last places to get light meters worked on. He recommended a Minolta V light meter. As he put it, " Get a Minolta and forget about the rest".

Good luck,

Jose

[Ari]

I think you're on the maximum threshold of weight with your tripod.
It's worth a try, but I'd keep it for DSLR shooting, and get something sturdy, reliable and cheap, like an older used Gitzo Studex; you can still use the head you have, and you won't have to worry if you get a larger or heavier camera/lens one day.
Some of the Chinese makers have a decent tripod or two at very good prices, too.

[Scotty230358]

Re the tripod, I used a Manfrotto 55 for some time with a Linhof Kardan GT. I had no stability issues, even when I used the dedicated Linhof Pan and tilt head which was quite heavy in its own right.

[chassis]

If you have an iPhone you can use it as a light meter. Look for the Pocket Light Meter app. It is a 4-6 ish degree spot and it can be calibrated to match "real" meters. I compared the iPhone app to my Sekonic L758DR and it was about a half stop off. After calibrating I think it is within 1/3 or 1/4 stop. Close enough for me and b&w film.

[alexn]

after rigourous testing I have found that my tripod/head are more than sturdy enough except for in extreme wind conditions..

as for the meter, the DSLR is doing an OK job but lugging around 1.3kgs worth of DSLR body + a lens (using an 85 F/1.4) is FAR too heavy so I'm going to buy a spot meter asap.

As for the sunny16 rule, not so helpful when shooting slide film... It might be ok for colour neg and BW but for slides "good enough" exposure results in blown out highlights every time... I have worked out a conversion where by I shoot F/22 @ 1/ISO speed and this usually works ok. Or alternatively, F/22 1/ 1 stop under ISO speed) and use a 2 stop grad ND for the sky I get away OK MOST of the time... This doesnt help in a rainforrest situation where there is little to no direct sun light, and high brightness from a waterfall etc. The DSLR does not fail me in those situations. I take a meter reading through any filter I want to use, apply the same speeds and shoot... I tend to favour saving highlights than getting shadow detail..

I will have a spot next month so all should be good.