B&W positive alternatives

[rcdurston]

I know about dr5 but they are not really an option for me considering the distance. I'm wondering if anyone else has a method for shooting and developing to get a B&W positive.
Back when I was in school with used Kodalith in HC110, I was wondering if Kodalith shares its characteristics with any other available lithe film, hopefully in 120?
Thanks
Rob

[vinny]

Lots of info on this subject over on apug.org.
Photographer's formulary sells (sold) a kit. Ilford has a recipe i've used as well. Most folks use home brewed stuff. I've only dabbled a little into it.

[Ari]

Isn't TMax 100 the choice for making B&W positives?
IIRC, there is also a TMax positive developing kit, but that may no longer be true.

[Emmanuel BIGLER]

Being an amateur of B&W slides, I've never made "direct" B&W slides in large format, only medium format either by the reversal process, or using AGFA SCALA film processed in authorized labs, so I won't speak about it, it's not large format.

For some time, MACO has marketed some film branded ROLLEI SLIDE DIRECT, in fact this is a kind of direct-positive film intended to make direct positive copies of B&W negs or slides for archival purposes, but its sensitiity is very low; the film was availale in 4x5".

I'm currently considering making B&W slides by contact prints from B&W negatives, or by copying the negative through a proper repro lens onto a fine-grain continuous tone negative film like Ilford Ortho Plus.
A friend of mine has recently extensively tested Ilford Ortho Plus for making inter-negatives and inter-positive for platinum/palladium prints. He seems very happy with Ilford Ortho Plus; You can easily adapt the contrast of this film in order to get the proper B&W slide contrast. You can process exposed film under a red safelight. Ilford Orho PLus has a very clear base suitable for B&W slides that you wish to project optically. A 8x10" slide can be easily projected with an overhead slide projector, a kind of device easy to find as used item now !!

For example you can imagine preparing a series of 8x10" B&W slides that do not need originally to come from a 8x10" film. you can simply enlarge any smaller format up to 8x10" to best fit the available size of the Fresnel lens & illuminated area of a standard overhead projector.

I did not make any est myself yet but probably this is the way i'll follow: contact prints or copies of any size from a neg to another continuous stone ortho neg, when my last roll of AGFA SCALA 120 will come back from the lab.

[David R Munson]

I was thinking about reversal processing tonight, having just processed my first batch of Shanghai GP3 and discovering that it appears to have a completely clear base. That certainly seems like it would be a plus, anyway.

[Pawlowski6132]

Some just listed, on this site, some B/W positve film for sale.

HERE (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=83439)

[johnielvis]

I reversal process all black and white films...it's my preferred process since there's no printing involved---direct results you can see immediately

just look at the ilford sheet and get the bleach....that's all you need...and a STRONG developer---

I've found that the literature is exactly right that the first developer is the most critical step...get a VERY STRONG deveoper and note that I've NEVER needed to add fixer to the deveoper...just regular developer as long as it's strong enough--d-19 is my recommendation to start with

most people, I believe, become discouraged by trying various different "hypo in the developer" mixtures...just stick with a developer and keep experimenting till you get your time/temp for your film/exposure. it takes a while, but when you get it, you've GOT it...

don't forget to FIX after the second development---there is ALWAYS some silver halide left...don't worry about not 100% clear base either...with a bright enough light behind it, ANY film is clear enough in my experience...use the film you LIKE to use..dont' be limited by "clear base"....or "designed for reversal"....

currently I'm doing 11x14 and 8x10 transparences--direct reversals---

I too am kind of interested in making transparency prints from negatives since I HATE the whole mess with re-exposing---makes a mess when you have to take the film out of the drum and put it back in...and also contributes to damage....

or you can tray develop......but then you're in the dark....nothing's easy.