Photograghing Outback Australia

[stefanmaxart]

On a recent trip through the Kimberley region of Northern Australia I realized I would need to move to film as the digital equipment I was using to shoot the stunning outback landscape (Sigma DP2 & Nikon D200 with an arsenal of their finest prime lenses), just did not capture the detail I was after, nor did it allow me to enlarge my prints to anywhere near the size I would need to exhibit the work within a contemporary art context.

On my return, and after some research, I was able to track down a couple of new 8x10 Tachihara cameras at a good price with a view to sell one to finance a Schneider 150mm lens believing that this would be the best option for my needs.

Outback Australia is a harsh place, it is punishing on equipment, the fine red dust gets into everything, and the heat and humidity at times can be unbearable. The energy and effort put into just getting out there, to shoot, and then return, needs to be worth it for me.

PRECISION is what I need from my equipment; it also needs to be robust and portable. I am beginning to believe that a wood and brass camera can't deliver the accuracy I require.
I have found a good deal on a Linhof 617s III with 90mm lens that I feel may be more suited to my requirements. Although, I am not overly keen on the format.

Before I make a final decision I would appreciate any thoughts this forum has regarding my situation.

Attached is a shot taken with my DP2, which by the way, left my Nikon gear for dead in regards to picture quality. If only it was 500 mega pixels...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/stefan_smith/6282460868/in/photostream

[stefanmaxart]

Here is the shot!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/stefan_smith/6282460868/sizes/l/in/photostream/

[Lachlan 717]

You've opened a can of worms here.

For a start, get over the "wood is no good" theory. If you need to be convinced that it's fine to use in harsh conditions, have a look at the work of Group f64.

Perhaps you need to start by telling us what film you want to shoot this with. I only suggest this as colour film for 8x10 is somewhat limited in range. You might want to consider moving to 4x5.

As such, the next thing to do is let us know what size you want to print. This will allow the group to let you know if you actually NEED 8x10, or can you get by with 5x7 or even 4x5.

Third, generally, precision=weight. Having shot in the outback in summer, I can tell you that weight will be your enemy. Have you totalled the weight of the Tachi and accessories?

I'll leave it there for now. However, in closing, I'd suggest having a look at Murray Fredericks' work at Lake Eyre. This was shot on a Toyo 810M.

[stefanmaxart]

Film: Fuji Velvia 50
Print size: 2500mm wide, or larger.
Thanks for the tip on weight.

[E. von Hoegh]

There's also a learning curve, whether you go with the Linhof or the Tachi. As has been pointed out to you, the two cameras you are choosing between are so vastly different as to be nigh impossible to compare. 4x5 will not gain you anything over the 6x17.

Your best bet is to learn to use large format equipment, gain some experience, then revisit your camera/format choice. The outback is noplace to be on the toe of the learning curve.

If you have no experience with film, you need to get some. Velvia has a range of about 5 stops, you'll have to get the exposure just right. You'll also be using a handheld meter, this requires some experience.

[Vaughn]

My thoughts: Go for the Linhof 6x17, along with a 4x5. Learn the materials (film/post-processing/printing) and also develop your imagery. The 4x5 will give you view camera experience and a chance to explore different lenses and how they see relative to the format and your own vision. Once you have reached a level of proficiency that you are happy with, then explore the possibilities of 8x10.

[Brian C. Miller]

There's a limited selection available for 8x10 color films. Here in the States the only stuff available is Kodak, Ektar 100 and Portra 400. Mind you, these are excellent films, and Ektar is made to really "pop" the color. Load some up in a 35mm or MF camera, and see if it will give you what you want.

Here's the problems with sheet film: you have to load it yourself, from box to film holder, and that's where the majority of the dust will get on the film. It must be loaded in absolute darkness, so a totally blacked out room or a changing tent (Harrison tent (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/172897-REG/Harrison_1001_Standard_Film_Changing_Tent.html)) must be used.

Wood and brass cameras are absolutely fine, and many here will sing their praises. The 8x10 is more bulky than the 4x5, but once you're using a view camera, it's not that much more of a bother. It's the heat and dust that will get to you out there. It would be best to load up the holders before going into the desert, and then keep them out of the heat by placing them in a cheap Styrofoam beer cooler.

[ashlee52]

Having lived and shot in Australia I would strongly encourage you to consider color negative film in place of Velvia. The outback is a place of extreme contrast ranges, which negative film handles much better. I have several Ken Duncan prints which I was given, and which were from Velvia originals. Even Australia's most experienced landscape photographer can barely handle the contrast (I am being generous).

Also colour neg film is much easier to process and scan yourself.

There is no difference between wood or metal cameras in that environment. Either way dust is your enemy. If you can find a way to stock up on (recently discontinued) Fuji Quickloads that is the best way to minimise dust issues. They are apparently still sold in Japan.

Keeping a good supply of canned air can help manage the dust.

My personal favorite format is 5x7... but Kodak Portra is the only colour film I know to be available in that format... and there is no guarentee that it will remain available.

You will need a really good scanning solution (or a way to print optically) to get all the benfits of shooting large format. Without that a digital back on a mediaum format camera will give you what you want... but at huge cost of course.

[Lachlan 717]

If you're shooting "golden/magic hour", Velvia's fine.

Kodak Ektar will give you some extra time.

But thereafter, all colour film will struggle. You might have more luck shooting B&W after breakfast and before Beer O'clock!!

When I'm out there, I tend to use the middle of the day to scout locations ready for the next sunset and sunrise. As you probably know, most "stuff" out there is a long way from other "stuff"...

[Michael Wynd]

2 years ago I took my 8x10 triple extension Tachihara to Alice Springs and went bush for a bit shooting B&W. One of the things you have to remember with 8x10 is the weight of the camera and the tripod and film holders. For sure I would use it to shoot colour in the outback, but I'm a nutcase. To do what you want, a 6x17 would offer you more flexibility and less likelihood of damage by dust, and less weight to carry. As others have said, the outback can be very harsh.
Mike

[Tom J McDonald]

You've opened a can of worms here.

For a start, get over the "wood is no good" theory. If you need to be convinced that it's fine to use in harsh conditions, have a look at the work of Group f64.

Perhaps you need to start by telling us what film you want to shoot this with. I only suggest this as colour film for 8x10 is somewhat limited in range. You might want to consider moving to 4x5.

As such, the next thing to do is let us know what size you want to print. This will allow the group to let you know if you actually NEED 8x10, or can you get by with 5x7 or even 4x5.

Third, generally, precision=weight. Having shot in the outback in summer, I can tell you that weight will be your enemy. Have you totalled the weight of the Tachi and accessories?

I'll leave it there for now. However, in closing, I'd suggest having a look at Murray Fredericks' work at Lake Eyre. This was shot on a Toyo 810M.

Lachlan, have you seen the documentary on the making of 'Salt'?

[Maris Rusis]

I've been taking large format cameras through outback Australia for more than 20 years and my experience is that the results are both better and worse than what you can get from big rollfilm, 612 and 617, that sort of thing.

A big sharpness killer is limited depth of field. A view camera with movements to place the plane of focus where you want it goes a long way to minimising this obstacle. A rigid rollfilm camera can only focus and stop down. Sometimes this is a marginal compromise, sometimes it's just not enough.

Film area rules! My 8x10 Tachihara 810HD routinely delivers images with detail finer than the eye can see but but the credit lies with the lens and the film. My initial concern was with the "precision" of this camera particularly when I set aside my Plaubel metal monorail in favour of the more ergonomic Tachi.

This is what I found:

It is possible to focus a Tachihara view camera to a precision of about 0.1mm on the ground glass. After focussing it is possible lock the camera controls down, then bend, shove, and twist the camera, so the image goes out of focus and moves about. The important thing is that with hands off the camera settles back exactly to its originally focussed condition. This it needs to do in order to cope with the forces of cocking the shutter, putting a film holder in, pulling a dark slide, maybe changing filters. I don't know of a properly made, properly adjusted, wooden view camera (Tachi included) that won't do this.

An 8x10 view camera has nearly 80 square inches of image to focus and inspect both at full aperture and stopped down. This could mean a half hour under a focussing cloth. Meanwhile the light is changing, the wind has picked up and the trees are swaying, lens flare has appeared, original meter readings are wrong, etc. The final picture may be as good as anyone in the world can produce but you will have worked very hard for it. At the end of the day you have maybe six or fewer exposures and be thoroughly exhausted. The image productivity of a 8x10 view camera in the Australian outback is very low.

Big rollfilm means access to scores of subjects, bracketed exposures, no dust, easier processing and finishing and the technical qualities are still very much state of the art. When I go to an outback location my first expedition is with roll film. My second expedition includes the 8x10 camera but only if it is worth it.

[stefanmaxart]

Thankyou all for your invaluable advise. Maris, I believe I have you to thank for the importation into Brisbane of my Tachis. I'm curious, what did they retail for?

[stefanmaxart]

Here is another shot
http://www.flickr.com/photos/stefan_smith/6281952343/sizes/l/in/photostream/

[Maris Rusis]

Thankyou all for your invaluable advise. Maris, I believe I have you to thank for the importation into Brisbane of my Tachis. I'm curious, what did they retail for?

My last pricelist (20 years ago!) for Tachihara indicated:

8x10 Triple extension $3814.80 (today's factory price 276150 yen)
8x10 Double extension $2711.30 (today's factory price 194250 yen)
4x5 Double extension $1298.70 (today's factory price 99750 yen)

but, as always, prices changed with currency exchange rates and I would discount to get a sale. The strong Australian dollar this year means a brand new Tachihara is marginally affordable.

[stefanmaxart]

WOW! Thanks Maris.

[Vaughn]

Another possibility --

When I was traveling in Aussie (northwestern NSW and up between Tindal and Darwin) I was using a light 4x5 with a roll back (along with 4x5 film holders for B&W). Just a 6x7, but I believe you can easily go up to 6x12. One camera, multiple formats. I did end up photographing earlier in the day than I normally do -- before the heat and flies got too bad.

I have hauled the 4x5 (and larger) in all sorts of weather/climates. From -7C in the snow, to the 40'sC, in both dry and humid conditions. But the local climate here really spoils me! Ya gotta love it -- love the process of photographing as well as the results. Otherwise photograph with a digi from an air-conditioned motorcar! Good luck in your choice(s)!

Vaughn

[jeroldharter]

8x10 is its own animal. Even if the camera and lenses are relatively light, the film holders are bulky and heavy. Color 8x10 film is very expensive. It is my favorite format but you really have to like its idiosyncrasies to stick wih it.

One option to consider is a Canham 5x7 camera with a 4x5 back (so you have a better range of color film options) and a 6x17 roll film back. That way you have multiple options in a rugged, relatively lightweight package and you can use movements with the roll film.

Also, your pictures look like you favor wide angle lenses. 8x10 wide angle is somewhat limited and the best wide angle lenses are large, heavy, expensive...

[Lachlan 717]

Lachlan, have you seen the documentary on the making of 'Salt'?

Yep; love his work and his work ethic! Being able to stay out on Lake Eyre for weeks on end is amazing.

Whilst not LF, he's recently had a go at shooting Hector, the storm off the Tiwi Islands. On his website, he's got a time-lapse of Hector rising.

I was up there earlier in the year and saw Hec' for the first time. Truly amazing sight! I struggled to get its 72,000+ foot height onto a piece of film with a 72mm! And the best thing? It's there the same time the next day. And the next...