Question about paper negitives?

[pictods]

I am shooting on a 5x7 1902 Conley Field Camera. Film is becoming kinda expensive, as no one carry's 5x7 unless I order it online. I have shot some paper negatives on Illford RC Fiber paper, but the ISO is like 6 and it terrible unless i'm in sunlight or have strong studio lights. I wanted to know what would be the best paper to use for paper negatives? What has the highest ISO?

[John Kasaian]

I'm in kind of the same boat only with an 8x10.
When I need the speed I'll pay for it (HP-5+)
but I don't think any paper is even half as fast as the slowest sheet film which I am aware of.
Have you tried Arista.edu Ultra from Freestyle?
Have you thought about experimenting with cut down x-ray film? Its even cheaper to shoot than paper!

[banana_legs]

RA4 colour paper has the highest ISO and is a touch cheaper than even B&W photo paper at the moment. The downside is that the blue response is about 100 iso, but gives a yellow image; green is about 50 iso and gives a magenta image and red is 25 iso and gives a cyan image. I often expose through a red filter that effectively gives a cyan image that is like using a red-responsive B&W paper. I have used a blue filter but my scanner struggles to get decent information out of the yellow image. It is also possible to use a series of colour filters and take colour images, although as the paper response curve and dye layers are not quite aligned (very little orange response), the resultant colour images do tend to have an odd palette! I develop my RA4 to completion by leaving it in developer (room temperature as it comes from the bottle) for about 2 minutes.

The biggest drawback to RA4 is that the paper is rather contrasty and often both the shadows block and highlights blow. It can be pre-flashed which helps, but it is not easy controlling the colour balance of the pre-flashing.

Best regards,

Evan

[Joshua Roberts]

I am using Oriental grade 2 RC glossy for my 8 x 10 camers and I am very happy with the results. It is $45 for 100 sheets at B&H. It is quite contrasty so I try to keep my subjects in the shade. The ISO is 6 and I am using Dektol 1:2 or 1:4 for a developer. I have not tried grade 1 but would like to hear how others are liking it. The paper does not have a water mark so it works well on the scanner or in the split back contact printer.

Best, Joshua

[Andrew O'Neill]

Sounds like you are contact printing, so why don't you give xray film a shot? Much better to work with than paper negatives and heaps heaps cheaper. You can work with this stuff under a safe light, too which would make it easier to cut two 5x7 sheets from 8x10. I'm working with an EI of 100 in pyrocat-hd and getting very nice tonalities for carbon printing.

[JJeffrey]

Andrew, where are you getting your xray film in Canada that makes it "heaps heaps cheaper"? I'm still dubious about the scratching problems with the double-sided emulsion and not sure that I'm ready for messing about with pyro. But if the economic incentive were sufficient I might be up for giving it a serious trial -- if you think it's do-able with tray development. Is xray film really that cheap here in Canada, or would I have to order it from some USA firm?

(I discuss this here, rather than on one of the xray film threads, because like the OP I'm considering working with paper negatives for awhile from motives of economy and simplicity; but Andrew seems to be suggesting that it really would be economically more advantageous if not easier to go the xray film route. I'm still looking for clear enough info on both sides to make a good decision.)

[jnantz]

hi pictods

when you say terrible, do you mean too slow ?
or do you mean to filled with contrast so you have to
expose in flat light or open shade, when your subjects are
in bright sun or a dimly lit studio?

[Rick A]

I am using Oriental grade 2 RC glossy for my 8 x 10 camers and I am very happy with the results. It is $45 for 100 sheets at B&H. It is quite contrasty so I try to keep my subjects in the shade. The ISO is 6 and I am using Dektol 1:2 or 1:4 for a developer. I have not tried grade 1 but would like to hear how others are liking it. The paper does not have a water mark so it works well on the scanner or in the split back contact printer.

Best, Joshua

Good choice of paper, To cut down on contrast, preflash the paper, and develope in Dektol 1+6, or alternate between 1+2 and water. Develope for 45 seconds then place in clear water to slow development, alternate to desired finish. I've been experimenting with this developing method and it seems to make a difference for me. Preflashing definitly helps tame contrast.