PDA

View Full Version : xtol 1:3 jobo 3010 less density on edges



Jordan
15-May-2011, 07:43
I did a batch of tri-x yesterday in xtol 1:3 and a good chunk of the negatives with a lot of smooth sky ended up with less density on the sky edge in the negative. I processed at about 70 degrees for 12 minutes. Aside from the strange edges the negs look pretty good. I've never had that trouble using hc110 for 9 minutes in the jobo 3010. Could that added development time had something to with it? Thanks.

Bruce Watson
15-May-2011, 18:27
What volume of chemistry? How fast was the drum turned? Reversing or not? What was turning the drum -- a Jobo processor? Hand rolling on a table?

Without more to go on, all I can tell you is that I've done hundreds of sheets of both Tri-X and TMY-2 in a 3010 tank in XTOL 1:3 and each and every one turned out just about perfect. It's normal to get excellent, even development corner to corner with a 3010 drum.

So give us more details; maybe we can figure out what's wrong in your case.

Jon Wilson
9-Sep-2011, 22:32
What volume of chemistry? How fast was the drum turned? Reversing or not? What was turning the drum -- a Jobo processor? Hand rolling on a table?

Without more to go on, all I can tell you is that I've done hundreds of sheets of both Tri-X and TMY-2 in a 3010 tank in XTOL 1:3 and each and every one turned out just about perfect. It's normal to get excellent, even development corner to corner with a 3010 drum.

So give us more details; maybe we can figure out what's wrong in your case.

Bruce, what ISO do you rate the TMY-2 and Tri-X. A friend was recently developing some Tri-X which was shot with a rating of ISO 100 and developed at 1:1 for 2:00. Although he used 35mm, I am trying to translate that information to my LF sheets.

Thanks. Jon

Sirius Glass
15-Sep-2011, 11:07
Using replenished XTOL will provide better tonality, ... . And properly done, the XTOL goes on "forever". I have been using it for over two years.

In a Jobo, do not pre-wet, develop the [full time + one minute] adjusted for the temperature and you will not ove the edge density problems.

Asher Kelman
15-Sep-2011, 13:29
Using replenished XTOL will provide better tonality, ... . And properly done, the XTOL goes on "forever". I have been using it for over two years.

In a Jobo, do not pre-wet, develop the [full time + one minute] adjusted for the temperature and you will not ove the edge density problems.

Sirius,

At what point in time does XTOL become aged sufficiently to become functionally "replenished XTOL", worthy of its name?

Asher

Sirius Glass
15-Sep-2011, 14:58
Sirius,

At what point in time does XTOL become aged sufficiently to become functionally "replenished XTOL", worthy of its name?

Asher

After each batch I replenish. That means up to four rolls of 135-16, or up to four rolls of 120, or up to ten 4x5s. I have never done any measurements of the changes between fresh and various stages of replenished developer. I do not have a density meter. I just use the stuff and I do not get into the endless testing and measuring cycles that some people drive themselves nuts with.

If I used fresh developer on one batch and replenished months later, I do not worry about the first batch ==> why? because there is nothing I can change in the negative from the first batch ... I just print it for the best result that can be achieved.

Since I have used a batch of replenished XTOL for over two years, I do not worry about it. When do I start over? When I do something stupid like spill too much of it or pour something into the bottle that I should not have.

Ed Richards
16-Sep-2011, 20:02
My experience is that pre-wetting made my negs much more uniform in the 3010 when using Xtol. I also use it one shot. Costs a little more, but is simpler. With TMY-2 Kodak quit recommending 1:3, so I switched to 1:1 or 1:2, and it seems to work about the same. Same volume of developer, just less distilled water.

jeroldharter
16-Sep-2011, 20:17
I always pre-wet with a jobo.

You might check that the Jobo, and the tank as it sits in the water bath, are level. Out of level could cause some problems.

Sirius Glass
18-Sep-2011, 11:13
The Jobo manual specifically states that when using XTOL, the film should NOT be prewet. Go argue with them.

Steve

Ed Richards
18-Sep-2011, 13:00
>The Jobo manual specifically states that when using XTOL, the film should NOT be prewet.

I followed their recommendations for the first couple of hundred of sheets. I noticed a consistent problem with skies. I started pre-wetting, and did not have the problem afterwards. YMMV

jeroldharter
18-Sep-2011, 14:42
The Jobo manual specifically states that when using XTOL, the film should NOT be prewet. Go argue with them.

Steve

I'm not arguing. I simply stated that I always pre-wet film with Xtol which is my primary developer. I'm sure the OP will consider the source when sorting through the responses.

Asher Kelman
18-Sep-2011, 16:04
I'm not arguing. I simply stated that I always pre-wet film with Xtol which is my primary developer. I'm sure the OP will consider the source when sorting through the responses.

Jerold,

How does one prewet with Xtol as opposed to using it? I have the 3010 and 3005 drums.

Thanks,

Asher

jeroldharter
18-Sep-2011, 17:31
I might have worded it poorly.

With my 3005 drums, I pour in 500 ml of tempered water for 5 minutes, dump, then add Xtol.

Asher Kelman
18-Sep-2011, 18:08
I might have worded it poorly.

With my 3005 drums, I pour in 500 ml of tempered water for 5 minutes, dump, then add Xtol.

Thanks so much. BTW, what's the range of media you use Xtol for? I use HP5, FP4 and Efke 25.

Asher

jeroldharter
18-Sep-2011, 18:11
I use TMY2 only at this point.

Lenny Eiger
18-Sep-2011, 18:37
I always try and reduce the number of variables with things like development. I understand that replenishing works, but to what degree - its simply impossible to know how much was used up developing previous sheets. There is no "ph paper" for developers that will tell you how strong your developer is. (Or at least none that I know about.)

I use Xtol at 1:1, specifically so I will have enough developer to deal with full 5 sheets of 8x10, or 10 sheets of 4x5.

I never use the Jobo's suggestions of using less developer than a full tank's worth. I use 12-1300 ml's of 1:1 solution. I also do a pre-wet of 5 mins. I don't have development issues. At lest I don't since I learned not to exhaust the developer, which caused me much pain in the past...

It's just my opinion, don't take it if you don't want to...

Lenny

jeroldharter
18-Sep-2011, 19:00
I agree there is no need to skimp on volume of diluted developer, especially when processing $35 of 8 x10 film per run.

Your post made me think. In fact, my procedure includes 1000 ml of developer, so I should be using 1000 ml of water for pre-wet, followed by 1000 ml of Xtol 1:1 developer. I just processed a run of 35 8x10's without consulting my charts and used 500 ml based on my faulty memory. The quick contact prints look ok. I have not tried to make any fine prints yet. But I will stick with 1000 ml.

Ed Richards
21-Sep-2011, 19:02
I am not sure that using a lot more volume than the minimum is accomplishing what you intend. I think the JOBO estimates look low, since those are based on color chemistry, I suspect JOBO knows what it is doing. I think when you use large volumes you may get less uniform mixing than with moderate volumes. For 4x5, you only need 50 ml of undiluted Xtol per negative. with a 3010 drum, that is 250, and I use 1:1, which is 500.