Frame dust cover material

[Roger Thoms]

Any good resoursed for a acid free material to cover the backs of picture frames. I've done a little searching on the web but haven't found much. I did find one source for tyvek. How Archival is tyvek?

Roger

[Peter Mounier]

I've used mylar, which works well and looks nice. Read this...
http://cool.conservation-us.org/byorg/abbey/an/an13/an13-5/an13-507.html

Then Google "Type D Mylar"

Peter

[Roger Thoms]

Thanks Peter, the mylar sounds interesting, hadn't thought of that. I wonder though is would it be better to have something that breathes a little.

Roger

[Ed Kelsey]

I leave the backing board bare but seal the edges with Lineco frame sealing tape.

[Peter Mounier]

I have a book titled "The Life of a Photograph"
http://www.amazon.com/Life-Photograph-Second-Archival-Processing/dp/0240800249

The authors suggested Mylar type d, or type s. But when you attach the mylar, leave a small gap at the top of the frame to allow for breathing.

Peter

[Roger Thoms]

Well my book should be on it's way shortly. :)

Roger

[Jim Becia]

Roger,

I would advise using simple kraft paper (I happen to like black.) All the paper is is a dust cover of sorts. I'm assuming that you are using a wood type frame. If so, I just run ATG around the edge of the frame and apply the paper. This material will never be in contact with your photo. Also, if you ever need to take the piece apart, it's easy to do and replace. And believe me when I say this, even in an area that you think is clean, a framed image with glass will need to be cleaned in about 5 or 6 years due to crap in the air. Jim

[Roger Thoms]

Jim, thanks for the advice, which is basically what I've been doing. I've actually been using Savage background paper which seems to be little tougher than kraft paper. Just found a Lineco frame backing paper which is acid free and buffered. At 70 usd for a 3'x300' roll it's more economical than the Savage. Might give that a try. I am using wooden frames and realize the wood is acidic. Lineco also make a frame lining tape for lining the rabbet on wood frames. So that solves the wood problem. Just trying to improve my framing a bit, since the non archival backing paper bothers me.

I have found out a little more about Tyvek and it looks good but is expensive. The Mylar sounds interesting, but is also expensive.

Roger

[Jim Becia]

Jim, thanks for the advice, which is basically what I've been doing. I've actually been using Savage background paper which seems to be little tougher than kraft paper. Just found a Lineco frame backing paper which is acid free and buffered. At 70 usd for a 3'x300' roll it's more economical than the Savage. Might give that a try. I am using wooden frames and realize the wood is acidic. Lineco also make a frame lining tape for lining the rabbet on wood frames. So that solves the wood problem. Just trying to improve my framing a bit, since the non archival backing paper bothers me.

I have found out a little more about Tyvek and it looks good but is expensive. The Mylar sounds interesting, but is also expensive.

Roger

Roger,

Just some anecdotal evidence. I had gallery and frame shop for about 17 years. During that time I reframed old pieces in wood frames that were 50, 60 years and older. Not once in all that time did I ever see any evidence of damage due to a wood frame. What I did see was damage when the backing used to be done with wood right flat against the mounting material. If your photo is mounted and backed with something acid free, I really doubt that the wood frame will have much of an impact and neither will the dust cover. There is so little contact with the frame.

If you are worried that you must have some strict museum type standards, then by all means, do it. I would probably be more concerned with using a quality conservation type glass or acrylic than the other stuff. These are just my opinions on framing. Jim