Framing table top material

[Jfnphotography]

Building a darkroom, adding an area for framing and matting photographs. Making a table out of a 4x8 sheet of plywood about 1” thick would like to cover the top in material that would be good to frame on. Been to a frame shops that had what looks like a flat carpet on there table tops. Is this carpet or some other kind of material? Any suggestions for a table top material?

[Drew Wiley]

Carpet is ghastly - you'll have dust and lint everywhere. Get a surface that is easy to
sponge down and keep clean like formica or melamine, at least for the workstation
where the photographs are actually put into the frames. Manufacturing frames, sawing, sanding, etc. is best done in a different room.

[eric black]

I have a self healing cutting mat that is 40 inches by 60 inches covering my framing table- easy to clean and it doubles as a cutting surface when needed. Bought it from Coda several years back (www.codamount.com)

[Jfnphotography]

I use pre cut metal frames, so I need a surface that will not scratch the frames.

[eric black]

see the shortcut tab on the page I referenced- this material wont scratch metal frames. they also offer a full 4 foot by 8 foot size now

[Harold_4074]

My two mounting/framing tables are made with steel tubing bases and 1-1/8 plywood tops (the tongue-and-groove subfloor material) finished with several coats of satin polyurethane varnish. Before varnishing, I used vinyl spacking compound to fill all knots, chips, and cracks (this is sturdy, but not pretty, plywood). The table where the trimmer sits has a slot so that scraps can fall through into a trash can. I settled on a depth of 36 inches because that is about as far as I can comfortably reach, and a length of 84 inches based on the amount of space that I had.

There is a self-healing mat (about 24x36) where I do actual trimming and I find that it is harmless to glossy anodized aluminum frames. Both surfaces are easy to clean with a damp cloth.

Enough grain is left in the urethane-coated plywood surface that it is easy to pick up bits of paper; I can't say the same for the cutting mat, so I wouldn't want an entire table top covered by it (also, almost anything would be pricey compared to varnish...).

[Drew Wiley]

Why would any smooth surface scratch a metal frame? You're much more likely to get
scratches from something gritty embedded in carpeting or some other type of soft surface. You do need something to keep your frame from slipping as you assemble it
and place the contents inside. I simply use a raised bar of varnished oak at the rear
of the table, or on another table with holes in the top, plastic clamping dogs. Slip
resistant self-healing mats, as already mentioned, are also a nice option. You can buy
plywood precoated with formica, or MDF with melamine, which is cheaper, so save
yourself the trouble sanding, filling, and varnishing the top.

[Jfnphotography]

with holes in the top, plastic clamping dogs
Good idea for holding frames will have to add some to the top.

My second thought was plywood that was finished on one side; satin it and get something to set on top of it. Will check on the self healing cutting mat.

[Harold_4074]

A straight "stop" to keep the frame from slipping is a nice idea, but be sure that the tabletop is flat and will not warp or sag with time. For this reason, Melamine-clad MDF might not be the best choice unless it has really good support, and definitely don't use plywood varnished only on one side, unless you can be sure that the moisture content won't change. Even the 1-1/8" stuff will bow if you let one side become more or less dry than the other.

I once used a table based on two filing cabinets and a solid-core door, and found that over the years the door developed a permanent sag (it has a particle-board type core) that made handling frames bigger than 14x17 something of a nuisance.

For ease of cleaning, I think that I'd prefer a straightedge that is clamped to the far edge of the table, rather than permanently attached.

[Eric Woodbury]

Cover it in mat-board. When it gets garfed up, change it out.

[Jim Becia]

Building a darkroom, adding an area for framing and matting photographs. Making a table out of a 4x8 sheet of plywood about 1” thick would like to cover the top in material that would be good to frame on. Been to a frame shops that had what looks like a flat carpet on there table tops. Is this carpet or some other kind of material? Any suggestions for a table top material?

As a frame shop owner of 16 years, I would go with the industrial style carpet. There must be a reason that so many of us use it. I had a work area with carpet and one with a self healing mat. I'd rather have a piece of glass fall on the carpeted surface than on a hard one. I never found dust to be any more a problem on the carpet that on any other surface. Jim

[jp]

I use a scrap/damaged piece of mat board atop my table when assembling frames. The table is/was an ugly but solid and flat kitchen table. I had to clear be able to clear it off for Christmas wrapping and other non-framing craft related projects.

[Ron McElroy]

My framing and work tables have plywood tops covered with marine vinyl. It gives a bit of cushion and the surface of vinyl offers grip as well. Easy to keep clean with soap and water. When it gets too worn I can replace it quickly.
Long ago when I did lots of framing I had one table just for cutting glass. It was covered in an industrial carpet like Jim described. A local glass shop at the time recommended using that surface. It worked great and the small flex of the carpet made it easy to break the glass after scoring.

[DanK]

Cover it in mat-board. When it gets garfed up, change it out.

Mat Board works for me as well....I pick up a couple cheap 32x40's from the local hobby store...and replace them as needed....

Thanks,
Dan

[Jim Jones]

I cover the table with an old bath towel when using aluminum frames. The towel can be cleaned with the rest of the laundry. Dan's suggestion of mat board might work better, but I'm a cheapskate.