DIY ULF Camera

[Andrew O'Neill]

Been carrying around plans to build my own ULF camera in my head for a few years. I can't stand it anymore so I've decided to start drawing it out and eventually building it. Can someone recommend a pyschiatrist who works on the cheap?? Just kidding... seriously, where can I find the hardware such as knobs, gears, etc? Thank you.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Andrew, maybe you and I can get a discount at the loony bin! I have been drawing out the 14x17 camera. For gears and track I've used McMaster Carr. Nobs I generally make my own although I just found some plumbing nobs that may be an option. I generally walk around the hardware store looking at stuff that can be used for camera building not what it was made to be used for.

Jim

[samuraiwarrior2]

Andrew, I used amazon to buy my rack and pinion gears. Everything else for my 4x5 I picked up at the hardware store or made myself. I was also just looking on ebay and there is a lot of NOS hardware for Deardorffs and other cameras there if you need a certain piece. You could also always find an old studio camera or such and reuse certain parts.

I'm with Jim, and am just starting to plan out a 14x17 camera. I noticed at my Home Depot, they actually had slotted brass pieces you could use for front and rear standards sold in the door-hinge area. They are normally used to hold open chests (I think they were called 'chest stays'). But that would really save you a lot of time as I found cutting slots was one of the most time consuming parts.

I used knurled knobs which were sold with the nuts and bolts. But the best advise is to get creative and make what you can get a hold of work for you.

[Curt]

Andrew, what's the total of your seed money? Two 24" brass racks and four Pinion gears to match are one hundred dollars at McMaster-Carr. Knobs needs shafts and the shaft diameter should be considered for gear bore size and the knob bore should be that size to make it easier on you. Look at Reid tool and supply for some really nice knobs. Metal, wood, bellows, ground glass and fasteners all need to be sourced and a price given and noted in a note book. You will soon start to get the reality check on the over all cost of the project. I'm not discouraging you and I've head it all, like I'll buy some parts this month and some next month etc.. Then the project gets put on the back burner and put off until the original project isn't what the original designer now wants.

An item that will you will soon discover, I'm assuming a lot here, like your background, is that what you draw will soon become shaped by what you will be able to buy. An example is say you need several 17 1/2" rods, you look them up and they only come in 12" and 24" lengths. The cost just doubled because you need the longer ones to cut down, you thought originally 12" ones would work but they don't, you need the longer ones and the cost just doubled and now you have to figure out what you will cut those nice new stainless steel shafts down with. OK so they are Brass and not SS cutting is easier but the cost is still creeping up. So you change the design to conform to what you can afford. Is the ripple effect going to affect the over all design, now there is an new problem. It goes on and on.

I've found the best cure for "what's in your mind" is to do an estimate of the materials cost for a project. Sketch it out and then go to the computer and get the prices on paper for the parts cost. If you are building your first camera then time is problematic, you will need a lot of time to try, experiment and develop the skills to make an instrument quality device. It's not a Swiss watch but it's not a kitchen cabinet either. There is nothing more frustrating than something that just doesn't work so in your construction you need to be constantly aware of ergonomics and function. If the turning of a knob causes you to pinch your finger or jam it between some other metal then the design is bad and you have no one to blame except the designer.

A lot goes into the final design of any product, it must look and feel correct and above all function. And don't forget that it may need to be fixed or repaired so what assembly method will you use. A rivet is difficult to remove, a screw is easier and don't forget to add up the cost of those screws, the little things can get lost in the estimate and get you at the bottom line.

Good luck,
Curt

[Andrew Plume]

Been carrying around plans to build my own ULF camera in my head for a few years. I can't stand it anymore so I've decided to start drawing it out and eventually building it. Can someone recommend a pyschiatrist who works on the cheap?? Just kidding... seriously, where can I find the hardware such as knobs, gears, etc? Thank you.


Andrew, Chris McCaw made his own ULF camera - it was featured in a VC article, quite a few years ago - I'm sure that he'd say that it did all of the necessary basics

Also, JB Harlin made a beautiful one a few years ago and that was also featured in VC - he probably has details on his website

hope this helps

andrew

[Caivman]

ehem...

http://www.micromark.com/
http://www.mcmaster.com/#
http://www.smallparts.com/

Take it from a pro (pro compulsive buyer of small parts that is)... have an idea of what you want before you start looking. lol.

happy hunting

[EdWorkman]

never build one unless you have already built one.
If you haven't built one- or a thing as complex, you will find that by the time you have built one, you have built 2 or more, only tossed them.
SO
Use mockups or cheap substitutes [paper,cardboard, balsa wood] for the first try at any component- or be prepared to pay twice+ as much to do it over/right/over. I realized the extent of my lack of skills and cash when I got to the focussing part- and bought a [smaller format]camera in need of major repair to salvage the rack etc portions. The price was more than what I thought I'd have to pay for raw racks etc, but now I'm certain I came out miles ahead, without the guilt and shame of ruining expensive materials. Not sure anyone around me noticed that I saved some sanity- wasn't much there to begin with, but I eventually did finish a working camera- now i know how to start over from the gitgo to do it better:>)

[John Jarosz]

I made my 8x20 from two baskets case Kodak 8x10 2D's plus Cuban Mahogany for the rear bellows frame, GG back, etc. The hardware on basket case cameras is usually pretty good. The bellows and GG will be junk but you don't care about that as you are getting/building a new bellows anyway. Settle on a filmholder maker and buy one before you start building your back to fit the filmholder. ULF filmholders are not standardized.
Have fun, it's a cool project.

john

[SAShruby]

Andy,

What are you intend to build? 8x20? I might join you for 20x8. It's always good to have one.

[chris_4622]

Andrew,

I used McMaster for the metal and hired a local retired machinist to cut the parts. All the rest I did.

chris

[Andrew O'Neill]

Hey guys, thank you so much for all your input. This is something that I absolutely do not want to rush into. I'm in no hurry. The first thing I need to do is pick up a film holder and design around it. Then I'll have to brush up on my woodworking skills. Luckily the school I teach at has a shop and a very helpful instructor. I'm planning on building one with scrap wood that he has laying around. Once I'm satisfied, I'll hunt for nicer wood.
I've never seen 14x17 holders on the auction site... anyone know anyone who wants to sell one... or two?
Jim, will your's be a field camera? We should share ideas. Mine is going to have no movements in the back except for tilt and a little swing. The front will have swing, tilt, rise. I want the camera to be RIGID.

[GPS]

...
I've never seen 14x17 holders on the auction site... anyone know anyone who wants to sell one... or two?
...

Lotus will sell you even three ;) ..!

[Andrew O'Neill]

Lotus wants an arm and a leg. S&S looks to be the most reasonable. Sandy, any 14x17 cherry wood holders in stock? :)

[Craig Roberts]

Andrew, I built a 12x20 about 4-years ago with great success. I made the bellows and ground glass. i bought the film holders and made the back to fit. Try McMasterCarr for racks and gears. Craig

[Craig Roberts]

Here's a shot of the camera in action, have fun. Craig

[Curt]

http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=14x17+film+holder&_sacat=See-All-Categories

Here's a holder, you're right you don't see many in that size.

[sanking]

Lotus wants an arm and a leg. S&S looks to be the most reasonable. Sandy, any 14x17 cherry wood holders in stock? :)

Andrew,

Shoot me an email and I will tell you what we have.

Sandy

[Craig Roberts]

I have S&S holders, Craig

[Andrew O'Neill]

Craig, that's really nice rig you have there. Where'd you get the spring-back? Did you make the back yourself?

[Craig Roberts]

Andrew, yes i made the springs for the back. They consist of 1/8 plywood and metal hangers from file cabinets. I can send some detailed pictures if you like. Craig abqcraignm@msn.com

[Andrew O'Neill]

Craig, that would be swell, thanks! Email on the way...

[Andrew Plume]

Andrew, I built a 12x20 about 4-years ago with great success. I made the bellows and ground glass. i bought the film holders and made the back to fit. Try McMasterCarr for racks and gears. Craig


Craig, that's a terrific (home made) camera - what lens do you have on there, please?

and did you also make the musical item, bottom left, too.................?

andrew

[Craig Roberts]

Andrew, The lens is a no-name brass lens with a FL of about 19-inches. I now have it mounted for use on an 8x10. It has stops marked from F:7.7 to F:62. It is quite sharp but doesn't see much use. No I didn't make the piano, thanks for asking

[Craig Roberts]

Here's a couple more shots of the camera. I don't have the capability to scan 12x20 but I'll shoot some of the prints with my point and shoot digital soon. Craig

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Hey guys, thank you so much for all your input. This is something that I absolutely do not want to rush into. I'm in no hurry. The first thing I need to do is pick up a film holder and design around it. Then I'll have to brush up on my woodworking skills. Luckily the school I teach at has a shop and a very helpful instructor. I'm planning on building one with scrap wood that he has laying around. Once I'm satisfied, I'll hunt for nicer wood.
I've never seen 14x17 holders on the auction site... anyone know anyone who wants to sell one... or two?
Jim, will your's be a field camera? We should share ideas. Mine is going to have no movements in the back except for tilt and a little swing. The front will have swing, tilt, rise. I want the camera to be RIGID.

Andrew, I didn't see this post until now. Sure if you want to share ideas that would be great. I've got a couple of holders ordered from Sandy in Walnut. My other two cameras 11x14 and 8x20 are walnut so the 14x17 will be also.I've got design ideas in my head and mine will be a combination of a Century, Korona and Folmer and Schwing. Kind of a cross between a studio/field camera. I've got some friends that have these cameras and I'm going to take some pictures so I have some reference. I need to see what I'm building. I think I will put some tilt and swing on both front and back. I may put shift on the front. Let me know if I can help and vice versa.

Jim

[Jim Fitzgerald]

I just got two Walnut 14x17 holders from Sandy and they are works of art. Oh how I love walnut and man is this camera going to be big. Now the serious camera building begins.

Jim

[Andrew O'Neill]

Hey Jim, how's the 14x17 coming along?

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Hey Jim, how's the 14x17 coming along?

Andrew, right now the 1417 is going slow. I have 53 sheets of film to develop from my recent trips. Getting back at it this weekend.

Jim

[Jim Fitzgerald]

I've been asked to show the progress of the 14x17. Well here are some images and yes that is me inside! At full extension it is just over 48".

Jim

[Tim k]

Jim, I think it should be a new rule, that when taking a picture of a camera, you should curl up in it to give it some sense of scale for all the www to see.

Looking good.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Tim, don't give me any ideas! I may revisit this when I get the bellows on!!

Jim

[matthew blais]

I've been asked to show the progress of the 14x17. Well here are some images and yes that is me inside! At full extension it is just over 48".

Jim

You da man man!

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Yes, I can "be him!" Matt, the front base is finished and it looks sweet!

Jim

[Ronan87]

Any updates!?

[taulen]

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=71040
and
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showpost.php?p=711508&postcount=245

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Any updates!?

I will post some images when I can find them. Here is one I found of a set up in El Capitan meadow in April of this year after the huge snow storm that hit. As soon as I broke out the 14x17 the wind God's did their thing! Did not get the shot but at least I got one of the set up. Found a couple of others too.

[Ronan87]

Beautiful!

Walnut... mmm :)

I'll take a 4x5 folder in walnut please :)

[Tim k]

Jim, that looks very nice. Great job.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Thanks everyone. Holders..... no I don't think so. To hard to make with hand tools! Still working on getting a real good image with this system. 14x17 carbon prints are not a piece of cake!!