Acadia-Bar Harbor

[Darren H]

Going to Acadia in October with the plan on staying for 4-5 nights for my first trip into the area.

With spending most of our time in the park which would be the best place to stay town-wise and even take suggestions on cottages, inns, etc.

Since I am traveling with the Mrs, we are looking for a cottage or small motel and probably in a town or village and not out alone.

Looking at the maps of the area I see there are several little towns in the area. I was looking at Bar Harbor being the default, but would one of the other little towns on Mt Desert Isle be a better bet for seeing the park?

Looking here I see folks talk about the neighboring Schoodic Point but I was thinking of that as a possible drive.

Ideally it would be close to the park so I could get in before dawn and photograph sunrise and early morning, then go back to have breakfast with wife. If the town was quaint (i know all New England towns are quaint) we could walk around it but still be close to park.

Any suggestions welcome. BTW, I already mined the article Bruce Barlow wrote in VC for some places to eat, but always open to good local choices for food too.

Thanks!

[John Bowen]

Darren,

I went along with Bruce on the VC Acadia Trip. We stayed in Ellsworth at the Comfort Inn. We would spend our mornings on Schoodic Point, then venture off after a few hours to either Acadia or "down East" as the locals call it. We had our dinners in Bar Harbor or Ellsworth. Bar Harbor is a great "walking around" town....Ellsworth is a "driving around" town.

Be sure to schedule some time in Stonington. If your travels permit, I would suggest you visit Pemaquid Point. Bruce, Richard Ritter, myself and about 3 other photographers returned the following year for some additional photography. I felt the time spent at Pemaquid Point was the best. We all shoot b&w, a color photographer may have a different opinion of Pemaquid Point, but it is sheer heaven for a b&w guy with a ULF camera.

I would have one suggestion. Have your wife bring some books and tag along with you. The sunrise is just magnificent and some of the little eateries in the area would be a long drive to return to the room then head back for luch. We hit Micky D's for breakfast and had lunch in the small villages. Dinner was in either Bar Harbor or Ellsworth.

HAVE FUN!!!!!!

[Bill_1856]

I've made many photo trips to Acadia, and wouldn't consider staying anywhere but Bar Harbor. The main drag downtown takes you into the National Park in five minutes.
There are plenty of high-end waterfront accomodations, but if you need somewhere nice at reasonable prices I'd recommend the Cadillac Motor Inn, which is where the hospital put me up for several months when I staffed the medical clinic at Southwest Harbor.
There are LOTS of great sea food places, but the place I enjoyed most was the old cafe (whose name I unfortunately have forgotten) on Main street where the locals all gather for hot coffee and gossip,(and blueberry muffins), every morning at 6 AM.
IMO the best photo mini-vacation locations in the US are Acadia NP and Pt. Lobos.

[Frank Petronio]

Great choice, it's the best landscape photographer's location on the East Coast I think.

[Robert Belcher]

Great choice, it's the best landscape photographer's location on the East Coast I think.

I second Frank's comment. My wife and I were there in early August three years ago. We had a tiny cabin at Tide Watch Cabins about 20 yards from the shore of Frenchman's bay (just enough room between the walls and he bed to walk around) but inexpensive at $95.00 a night; also right next door to the Chart House Restuarant. About a two minute drive to Acadia National Park and about 5 minutes drive to Bar Harbor. Almost anywhere you go on Mt. Desert Island is a photo opportunity. My wife and I especially liked Northeast Harbor in the early morning and Southwest Harbor in the late afternoon. All the little villages on the island are quaint and very photogenic. The seawall in Bar harbor is a beautiful stroll in the evening; carry your small format for walking around Bar Harbor in the evening. Schoodic point is breath taking. Almost anywhere you want to eat is at least good and more often excellent. Bar Harbor is on the list to revisit--right after Yosemite.

By the way, I am not affiliated with Tide Watch cabins in any manner whatsoever. Just a neat place to camp while excploring the island.

[jp]

There are plenty of places to stay on the island, in Bar Harbor and in the other towns. Book early though. Fall is a popular time. In addition to the suggestions, do some hiking around the smaller hills in the park, lots of nice stuff within 20 minutes of the road, and trail system is very nice. I camped there at Thanksgiving once at the park campground, and stayed at the Harborside Hotel (because my wife worked for their owner); opposite extremes, but you can be close to the park and food regardless of lodging choices. When camping, we stocked up on food at the grocery stores in Ellsworth and Bar Harbor.

If you stay off-island, you could save a little money, but will likely incur minor traffic jams getting from trenton into bar harbor. Not at 6am of course....

The business walking area of downtown Bar Harbor is a mix of nice places to eat, tourist junk shops (souvenirs), and a grocery store. In addition to being next to a nice national park, they get lots of cruise ship traffic, thus the souvenir shop popularity.

I'm about 2 hours south of Acadia and an hour north of Pemaquid.

[msk2193]

Darren,

Make your plans for the earlier part of October to catch the best of the autumn colors.
I subscribe to a handy newsletter service which is very helpful in getting the right spots when you're in a bit of a time squeeze; they show the "right" spots and the right time of day to visit. They sell single issues and they have on on Acadia and one on the Maine Islands. Here is the link: www.photographamerica.com

[Louie Powell]

Any suggestions welcome.

It's only a few miles south from Acadia to a couple of interesting photographic targets.

One is Fort Knox in Bucksport. Very well preserved Civil War era fortification, LF cameras and tripods welcome, and only very modest crowds to get in the way.

The other is the Penobscut Narrows Bridge that crosses from the mainland to an island in Penobscot Bay. This bridge includes a tower that is open to the public and that offers fabulous views of the Bay and nearby terrain.

[jp]

Thanks for reminding me of that. Alongside the new bridge is the old one and you can walk right up to the base of it. And I've been wanting to photograph the old bridge from underneath with LF. I've taken some LF photos I like at Fort Knox and would like to go back for more with soft focus and no family in tow.

Most any peninsula along the Maine coast will have many photo possibilities.

Also any quarries you find could be good with LF.

Another option is to spend a day (and maybe a night) on an island like Vinalhaven/North Haven/Islesboro/Monhegan. If you're an Eliot Porter fan, Penobscot Bay is the photographic center of the universe.

[Darren H]

Thanks all!

Just the sort of info I knew I could find here.

[Rayt]

I used to live in the area and spend a lot of time in Acadia. If you have time also consider driving up north to the New Brunswick coast. There is a place call Cape Enrage that is spectacular.

[Andrew ren]

excellent thread.

I am about to have a visit @ bar harbor as well end of Aug, then CAT back to Yarmouth.

John, what's the name of the clam roll place?

Cheers

Andrew

[Michael N. Meyer]

Darren,

If you're with the Mrs, consider Aysgarth Station. It is a quaint B&B with clean rooms and a good breakfast. The proprietors are both friendly and helpful. It is right in Bar Harbor and has parking and reasonable rates. Well, not crazy rates anyway. I stayed there several years ago.

20 Roberts Avenue
Bar Harbor, ME 04609-1820
(207) 288-9655aysgarth.com‎

While you're in town, don't miss the local brew at the Lompoc Cafe.

I'd avoid staying in Ellsworth only because of the traffic involved on Route 3 getting to and from Mount Desert. Schoodic Point is a nice spot too, probably with less crowds, but it will involve traveling on both Rt. 3 and Rt 1 which can both be crowded with traffic. Early morning might be the best time to head there.

[Darren H]

More good info. Thanks.

Now I have a few places to check out in Bar Harbor. Also need to watch the flights which have prices that swing more than the stock market. :-)

[Nathan Potter]

Summer crowds are mainly gone from the Bar Harbor area by early Oct. I've not had much trouble with traffic crossing from Elsworth to Bar Harbor. I like to toggle between Acadia Park and the Schoodic subsection for photography so at that time of the year it can make sense to stay on the mainland near Ellsworth. Of course photographic subjects depend on your interest and it is probably best to not range to far but focus on a few specific areas - an axiom no matter where one is. Bruce Barlows suggestions would be well taken.

Extracting strong images from the coast of Maine is not easy and I've had a particularly difficult time of it on Mt Desert Island. The minutae on the summit of Cadallac Mt. has provided some strong images of glacially scared rocks with low vegetation in color. The so called sand beach area, especially behind the beach, where there is a splendid salt marsh, can be a grand study in texture in B&W at low angle light. I certainly spend more time on the Schoodic penninsula, especially at the great cobble barrier beach on the way to the point and at Grindstone Neck point in Winter Harbor dealing with the bedrock formations and cobbles.

Two of the most iconic fishing villages in ME. are a way both north and south of Acadia. Stonington (mentioned) is at the end of the Deer Island Penninsula and Corea is just east of the Schoodic subsection. Village photography is about unparalleled in these locations.

Nate Potter, Austin TX.

[QT Luong]

I don't have much recommendations for places to stay, other than observing that Bar Harbor is a very nice town, and the further you get from Bar Harbor, the less expensive are hotels. However, by coincidence, I've just posted three blog entries about Acadia, plus one about the villages. Here the latest post on Acadia National Park (http://terragalleria.com/blog/2010/06/25/photo-spot-31-acadia-national-park-cadillac-mountain).

[Darren H]

QT, great blog post and thanks for even more info on the area. It is looking nicer as a destination.

[John Bowen]

John, what's the name of the clam roll place?

Cheers

Andrew

Damn if I can remember. If memory serves me, it is the ONLY place to eat in Winter Harbor and it is on the main drag. Good Eats!

[Michael Alpert]

Damn if I can remember. If memory serves me, it is the ONLY place to eat in Winter Harbor and it is on the main drag. Good Eats!

The Winter Harbor restaurant is called Chase's. It in on the main street, which is Route 186. There is another, newer, summer-season restaurant down the street on the corner, but Chase's has been around forever and is where local people eat.

[Bill_1856]

Hmmm, Darren -- you have stirred fond memories. I may have to take a week or two there this year in late October.

[John Bowen]

The Winter Harbor restaurant is called Chase's. It in on the main street, which is Route 186. There is another, newer, summer-season restaurant down the street on the corner, but Chase's has been around forever and is where local people eat.

Thanks Michael,

I didn't remember the restaurant's name, but I'll never forget one of the co-owners. I remember telling Bruce Barlow that I would love to take her portrait. She had a healthy look, nearly white hair and the most beautiful blue eyes....

[Andrew ren]

Thanks Michael,

I didn't remember the restaurant's name, but I'll never forget one of the co-owners. I remember telling Bruce Barlow that I would love to take her portrait. She had a healthy look, nearly white hair and the most beautiful blue eyes....

Excellent!
will go the locals go.


Andrew

[Nathan Potter]

The other Winter Harbor Restaurant is J. R. Gerrish Provisions across from the General Store. It is upscale, a coffee shop with fine pastries and a lunch menu. Very fine food - at least in summer 2009. Good place to warm up in a cold rain and equipped with WiFi. Chases is classic townie, locals hangout; I remember it in the 50's when I was a kid and the whole scene was more of desperate poverty than now.

BTW, a hazard not sometimes recognized around that area is the slipperyness of the wetted bedrock below high tide. The rocks can be as slippery as ice and slope often toward the water. It can be perilously easy to slide into the ocean and at 45 to 48 F you can't last long, and it can be impossible to get out during rough seas. Recently a couple of children were victims at the tip of Schoodic Point. Kinda ruins the family vacation.

Nate Potter, Austin TX.

[Bruce Barlow]

Check the tide tables and try to get to Stonington at low tide. Way more interesting than high tide, when Stonington is, well, interesting.

We liked to stay in Ellsworth because it's like being at the knuckle above three fingers, and so convenient to Schoodic, Acadia (Seal Beach...or is it seal cove?), and Deer Isle (Stonington). A coupla good eateries, and about 30 minutes from more good eateries in Bar Harbor.

Traffic will be fine, most of the touristas have vamoosed by then.

Try to visit Pemaquid Point (for a full day, at least), too. Spectacular.

[John Bowen]

During our trips to Acadia, we NEVER experienced a traffic problem. Why? Because we were out the door at 6am and at our destinations in time to see the sun clear the horizon.....

Among the 1st customers at Micky D's every morning, but no traffic to deal with.

[Steve M Hostetter]

Baxter state park

[Michael Alpert]

Baxter state park

Steve,

I may have missed something. Did you have a quesiton about Baxter State Park, or were you recommending it? Baxter is in northern Maine, not anywhere near Bar Harbor. Baxter is much more of a wilderness area, with restrictions that visitors need to be aware of before they arrive. I am sure that the park has all the information a visitor needs on its website. It is mountainous and very beautiful in its own way, a true jewel in the north woods.

I suppose that someone coming to Maine could visit both the mid-coast and Baxter. But Maine is subtle, and a photographer needs time to get beyond the obvious postcard pictures that are taken here endlessly. (Even the photographs that Weston and Adams made in Maine show only a quick and shallow view.) So I recommend that visitors to Maine find some one place--either on the coast or inland--to settle down and explore.

[Nathan Potter]

Steve,

I may have missed something. Did you have a quesiton about Baxter State Park, or were you recommending it? Baxter is in northern Maine, not anywhere near Bar Harbor. Baxter is much more of a wilderness area, with restrictions that visitors need to be aware of before they arrive. I am sure that the park has all the information a visitor needs on its website. It is mountainous and very beautiful in its own way, a true jewel in the north woods.

I suppose that someone coming to Maine could visit both the mid-coast and Baxter. But Maine is subtle, and a photographer needs time to get beyond the obvious postcard pictures that are taken here endlessly. (Even the photographs that Weston and Adams made in Maine show only a quick and shallow view.) So I recommend that visitors to Maine find some one place--either on the coast or inland--to settle down and explore.

Indeed Baxter State Park (Mt Katahdin) is a gem but a compositional photographic challenge. My first visit was in Oct 1945 as a kid with my dad. We roped to the iced summit via the Cathedral trail from Chimney Pond (he was a climbing lunatic I thought at the time). We were the only ones on the Mt. Hey, I carried a Seneca "post card" camera for 3.25 X 5.5 inch film; Verchrome 122 as I recall.

But along the coastal area in the vicinity of Rte 1 is an area of blueberry barrens not discussed here previously. The barrens will be a deep wine red in Oct. (with a bit of luck). Go north a short way out of Cherryfield and take a right onto Ridge road. You'll start passing through blueberry barrens at perhaps about 3 mi. About 5 mi. along you'll find Pineo Ridge a vast barrens area studded with glacial erratic boulders and a bit further on Schoodic Lake. This whole area is rather like a moonscape with some unusual photographic possibilities, but as Michael says it takes some introspection and time to get the images together.

Nate Potter, Austin TX.

[Darren H]

Nate, the blueberry barrens sounds very interesting and I will add it to my list. Thanks!

As we sit in 100 degree weather in Texas, I look forward to the fall and getting to Maine!

[Steve M Hostetter]

Steve,

I may have missed something. Did you have a quesiton about Baxter State Park, or were you recommending it? Baxter is in northern Maine, not anywhere near Bar Harbor. Baxter is much more of a wilderness area, with restrictions that visitors need to be aware of before they arrive. I am sure that the park has all the information a visitor needs on its website. It is mountainous and very beautiful in its own way, a true jewel in the north woods.

I suppose that someone coming to Maine could visit both the mid-coast and Baxter. But Maine is subtle, and a photographer needs time to get beyond the obvious postcard pictures that are taken here endlessly. (Even the photographs that Weston and Adams made in Maine show only a quick and shallow view.) So I recommend that visitors to Maine find some one place--either on the coast or inland--to settle down and explore.

Hello Michael,

Yes in fact I was suggesting Baxter as a place you might consider visiting .. It's not a terrible distance from the coast considering that you drove from TX to get there..
I strongly recommend that you drive through it and see the wonderful scenery and lots of moose..
It's like $25.00 for a 7 day pass and you can stay in Millinocket.. Cool little town with great home cooked meals..

I recommend you do your thing on the coast then jump on 95 and you'll be there before you can shake two sticks :D
regards
steve

[jp]

And while in Millinocket, visit the Pelletier Logging restaurant (of the American Loggers TV show family)

[Steve M Hostetter]

and drop by Stephen King's house in Bangor :D

[Steve M Hostetter]

If you decide to go to Baxter as you enter the park you are forced to go right or left. At first go right and check that out, there is a neat boulder filled stream up on the left with lots of color in there.. Hit it later in day for best light.
Then after you back track and then it's like a 2.5 hour drive through the park.. In high winds they have trees down and close parts of the park so don't get there to late in fall..
Bring a 35mm or digital w/ tele for moose,, You will see them .. They might walk right by you even.

[philip964]

I've made many photo trips to Acadia, and wouldn't consider staying anywhere but Bar Harbor. The main drag downtown takes you into the National Park in five minutes.
There are plenty of high-end waterfront accomodations, but if you need somewhere nice at reasonable prices I'd recommend the Cadillac Motor Inn, which is where the hospital put me up for several months when I staffed the medical clinic at Southwest Harbor.
There are LOTS of great sea food places, but the place I enjoyed most was the old cafe (whose name I unfortunately have forgotten) on Main street where the locals all gather for hot coffee and gossip,(and blueberry muffins), every morning at 6 AM.
IMO the best photo mini-vacation locations in the US are Acadia NP and Pt. Lobos.

Bar Harbor is perfect for a place to stay. Very convenient to the park. Lots of shopping for the Mrs.

[Darren H]

Wanted to give a follow-up to my Acadia trip. Many thanks for all the advice from everyone.

Spent 5 nights in Bar Harbor staying at the Cadillac Motor Inn (thanks for the tip Bill). Clean, nice, basic. A little thin wall noisy if someone stays above you (one night for us) but a good choice. On the edge of town so its a little quieter than downtown but still only a few blocks to walk to a cafe.

We ate great although we pass on the high end stuff for more simple fare. Lots of chowda, lobsta rolls, maple, and blueberries. Really like the breakfast at Cafe This Way. Lunch at the Thirsty Whale. Dinner at the Side Street Cafe.

Weather was clear for 4 days and then a Nor'easter for a day. Still managed to get a few pics.

Did not leave Mt Desert Island. Had planned on a day drive to Scoodic Point but decided to stay and hike in the park instead of the drive. Johns suggestion of Ellsworth is probably a better choice for those who want to photograph, MDI, Scoodic, and other coastal areas. That meant we missed the blueberry fields but I'll get those next time.

Favorite locations were the coast around Thunder Hole at dawn, Echo Cliffs for view, and the carriage road system for walking. Biggest disappointment was Bass Harbor lighthouse. Only one angle and you have seen it done many times over.

Anyway a great location I plan to get back to. I'll be blogging and adding some images to site in the coming weeks as I sort and edit. Here are a few digital snaps from the trip you might like.

Thanks again all!

[John Bowen]

Darren,

Glad you enjoyed your trip. With any luck, I'll be headed to Pemaquid Point for a quick trip in the next few weeks.

[Darren H]

John -Thanks for all the advice and have a great trip!