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View Full Version : Help wanted in identifying a Century Studio/Stand and moving advice please!



Steven Tribe
26-Mar-2010, 14:36
I have taken the unavoidable step of "winning" a studio camera on its stand. I think it is a Century. I enclose the relevant photos. I was looking for a Danish studio camera (the Norka) - but Emil seems to have cornered the market some time ago. Can anyone identify the likely model? As you can see it been mounted with the usual 13x18cm sliding back with a 300mm Heliar on a later board. To me, anyway, it looks like it will take a 8x10 back.
The big question - as I have to drive quite a few hours to pick this up - for those who transported these dinosaurs is:

Does the table tilt right up or down, or is it easily taken off? These would ease the transport arrangement a lot!

Emil Schildt
26-Mar-2010, 14:53
Hi Steven - I don't know what you mean by me having cornered the market some time ago... (if it was me you were referring to, that is..)

I have no Norka's :( ... would LOVE to own a couple, as some of them were awesome!

I don't know your new camera, but to me ot surely looks like the table can be turned into a vertical position...

BarryS
26-Mar-2010, 14:56
Congratulations--Looks like an 8x10 Century studio camera with a 5x7 reducing back on a Semi-Centennial 1a stand. Nice condition, too. The wooden bar that supports the platform is held in place with a pin. Remove the pin (near the crank) and the platform will tilt all the way up. Once it's tilted, you have access to the hinges and you can unscrew the platform from the stand. Then you can unscrew the nut on the bolt at the rear wheel and then unbolt the two rear cast iron pieces. At this point you can probably transport the pieces if you have a fold down seat, a roof rack, or a larger vehicle.

Steven Tribe
26-Mar-2010, 15:07
Sorry Emil, I promise I'll let you know if I find a Norka up in Sweden where a lot were sold - I have a summer house up there. But you have a lot of big cameras though!

Emil Schildt
26-Mar-2010, 16:16
Sorry Emil, I promise I'll let you know if I find a Norka up in Sweden where a lot were sold - I have a summer house up there. But you have a lot of big cameras though!

I do.. I do...

(thanks)

Steven Tribe
26-Mar-2010, 16:36
Thanks Barry! It seems like I can manage with my old Toyota without having to drag a trailer around. Just need a tool set and I'll remove the back seats before I set off.

BarryS
26-Mar-2010, 16:48
I have my 11x14 Century in my studio now and it's a joy to use for portraits and still lifes. I don't know how I got by without one. :) Start thinking about what you might want to mount on those 9" lens boards.

Steven Tribe
26-Mar-2010, 17:29
I already have the lenses!
360mm Heliar (well my son's actually!), 600mm Plasticca, 18" Port-land and a 16/18" Graf Variable, 18" Landscape meniscus plus lots of Apo Cooke and Wray process lenses. I suppose I will have to think about bellows extension for some.

cdholden
26-Mar-2010, 20:18
Is Eddie hauling these things around the world? If you said it had an 8x10 back, I'd swear I saw one of these in his garage (errrr, I mean studio) a few weeks ago. Send him a PM. He's got a stand that looks similar, if not identical from my memory.
He should be able to offer suggestions, if not specific details about movement/design.
Chris

Steven Tribe
27-Mar-2010, 02:19
Eddie is in the Netherlands at the moment. No, this isn't one of his. I suppose I might be joining his group puchase for a bellows if the extension is not enough?

bob carnie
27-Mar-2010, 08:12
I have this same Camera now at my place and want to use it, for still lifes.

I am a printmaker and do not consider myself a photographer , so bear with me if my questions seem silly or obvious.

I am photographing objects that range in the size of 2-5 inches and I would like them to double in size on the 8x10 film.
2x magnification.

the lens that comes with the camera I have is a Voightlander Braunshweig Helier 1:4.5
f=48cm
the lens is 5inches in diameter and around 6 inches long.

My question can this lens and camera with bellows extension get me the 2x object magnification I am looking for??

If not what lens would I be looking for to mount on this camera?
I have a client who has this same camera with three lenses and maybe someone here has experience with what I am trying to do and can advise.

be gentle, I am a complete novice with large format camera use, but since I have 11x14 and 8x10 enlargers I am dying to expose some film to work more with these enlargers.

Steven Tribe
27-Mar-2010, 09:28
There are quite a lot of people here who have posted still lives with the same set-up. What kind of depth of focus would you be looking for?

Louis Pacilla
27-Mar-2010, 09:46
Hi Steven

The camera is #10a. This should have around 36" or so of extension. The two knobs on the rail release an extra track w/ a pedestal to support the bellows. I don't know that you could make the camera extend beyond that w/ out serious wood working.
If you find you need more bellows the next choice & maybe only choice is a 8A -11x14 which can be found . usually the back has been reduced to 8x10 or 5x7. the 8A i believe has 40" at max.
Hope this helps
Peace
Louis

bob carnie
27-Mar-2010, 09:59
Very little , I will be putting these objects sharp against a nuetral background which I want out of focus.
I am more curious about the physical size I can make these objects on the film . I plan to make monster size prints.


There are quite a lot of people here who have posted still lives with the same set-up. What kind of depth of focus would you be looking for?

eddie
27-Mar-2010, 11:41
steven,

the bed on the stand can be unscrewed and tilted up. then you can wrap it to keep it from damage. blanket or similar. i used to transport them on the roof of my ford escort station wagon and one inside. it fit no problem. if you can not get iyt into a station wagon complete you can take off the rear hoop (connecting the 3rd wheel) and that will save you some serious height, it should slide right in most cars that you can lay the rear seat down. the camera will sit on the passenger seat.

have fun. a great camera. where/how did you find it? i have caster wheels for it if you need new ones.

eddie

ps. i am in holland. spent the last 3 days shooting around utretch and amsterdam. great fun.

Steven Tribe
27-Mar-2010, 12:16
Many thanks for your responses. Much appreciated and it is all very useful information. I certainly didn't expect to find one on a Swedish auction that had crossed the Atlantic early in its life. Sorry about the weather, Eddie, you seem to have hit the period with Atlantic depressions rolling in with gusty rain.

cowanw
27-Mar-2010, 12:20
I thought I would have a shot at this.
With a 48cm lens (19") you will need to extend to 53" (132 cm).
Based on a 2:1 image size you will need 3 stops more light and this is the length that corresponds.
If your camera bellows extends to 36" you would get a 2:1 size with a 13 inch lens
(330mm). For ease of function you may even wish to go a bit shorter. An 11 inch lens would require 32 inches of bellows.
So stretch out your bellows and measure lens to film length. Think of that as an fstop and calculate 3 stops more open. That will be the length of lens you want (in inches)
Needless to say I stand ready to be corrected.
Also I think your mention of a 48cm Voigtlander Braunschweig Heliar (check your spelling you may have a Hong Kong knockoff:) ) will set Richard K to salivating
Regards
Bill


I have this same Camera now at my place and want to use it, for still lifes.

I am a printmaker and do not consider myself a photographer , so bear with me if my questions seem silly or obvious.

I am photographing objects that range in the size of 2-5 inches and I would like them to double in size on the 8x10 film.
2x magnification.

the lens that comes with the camera I have is a Voightlander Braunshweig Helier 1:4.5
f=48cm
the lens is 5inches in diameter and around 6 inches long.

My question can this lens and camera with bellows extension get me the 2x object magnification I am looking for??

If not what lens would I be looking for to mount on this camera?
I have a client who has this same camera with three lenses and maybe someone here has experience with what I am trying to do and can advise.

be gentle, I am a complete novice with large format camera use, but since I have 11x14 and 8x10 enlargers I am dying to expose some film to work more with these enlargers.

bob carnie
27-Mar-2010, 12:48
Thanks Bill

most helpful, I figured out how to get the bellows to around 50 inches from lens,
the spelling is correct on the lens btw.

So if I got a 300mm lens I should be able to magnify the object more??

What kind of $$$ am I looking at paying for a decent 300mm lens?
I know where to make the board for mounting the lens.

regards
Bob

bob carnie
27-Mar-2010, 13:26
Here are a couple of pics

Steven Tribe
27-Mar-2010, 13:29
And I thought I knew the ins and outs of cameraeccentrics catalogues! It turns out that the Century cameras and stands are well illustrated in the Eastman Professional catalogue from 1927 - Century had been reduced to a Product trademark.

cowanw
27-Mar-2010, 15:00
Yes, it is one of those counter intuitive things. You'd think the telephoto aspect of longer lenses would get you a bigger picture, but no: the shorter the lens the larger the magnification given a constant bellows length. You might look for a commercial ektar for a sharp lens that would stand vast enlargement on printing. Around $250. I am sure there are many other lenses that others will suggest just as good
Regards
Bill


Thanks Bill

most helpful, I figured out how to get the bellows to around 50 inches from lens,
the spelling is correct on the lens btw.

So if I got a 300mm lens I should be able to magnify the object more??

What kind of $$$ am I looking at paying for a decent 300mm lens?
I know where to make the board for mounting the lens.

regards
Bob

bob carnie
28-Mar-2010, 06:52
Bill

A friend is bringing over a 300 lens that I can try. I was able to extend the bellows enough to get approx 1.2x object size on the ground glass.
I was wrong about the length of bellows, I think I can get around 30-38 inches depending where you measure from.
I am hoping the 300 lens will do the trick as most of the found objects I am attempting are in the 1-4 inch size and I want them to fill the frame of 8x10.
Trying to reduce images at the enlarger stage is a PIA and now I am seeing the reverse.
I think my camera was built in 1902 It is a #8 .

A few portraits are being taken today with this camera , and then the setup will be left for still lifes. Its funny how people react around the camera , and there really is an buzz or excitement about working with this wonderful piece glass and wood.

jnantz
28-Mar-2010, 07:02
steve

i have an 8a and transported the camera and stand in the back of a jetta wagon.
they were easy to transport.
the side posts don't come off, they have coiled ribbon/spring ... a counterbalance for the camera on the bed.

have fun ...
its a great camera :)

john

goamules
29-Mar-2010, 18:34
steven,

the bed on the stand can be unscrewed and tilted up...

Or you could pull the pin out where the wood bar meets the crank....Or you could get a saw and cut it neatly off.....and glue it back later. But I'd just pull the pin, it's made to be removable for folding.

Steven Tribe
30-Mar-2010, 16:04
Well the dismantlement went very well - the seller was ready with the appropriate tools. Bellows is almost as new - steel grey -looks a bit like goretex. Could this be a replacement? It has a synch. Grundner shutter (12cm). This is the shutter, rather like two halves of a hemisphere - OK, I give up - will post photos instead to-morrow. Can't see any problem. Should the table cover be purple?
Thanks again for the tips etc. -It does fit a normal car quite well. What a lot of trees there are in Sweden!

bob carnie
31-Mar-2010, 05:23
We tried the camera on the weekend and should see results later today or tommorow when the film is run.
My friend brought over a couple of lenses,

Cooke Portrait Anastigmat Lens Series 11b f4.5 380 .
this lens has settings and what looks like a couple of different settings Sharp, Soft,
Focus 2 , 3 . Not really sure how this works .. maybe gausiaun blur??

Also a 300 mm lens , but this one is on a recessed board and would not fit on my Camera as the Shutter gets in the way.
Can I just put this lens on a different board and use it on my camera??

I am thinking the 300 is going to be the lens I am interested in so any ideas why it is recessed , rather than just sitting flush on the board would be appreciated.

Bob

Steven Tribe
31-Mar-2010, 05:31
Strange, now that is assembled, it looks a lot bigger than in the photos! Probably because the seller(s) - it was the better half who had it - live in a house from 1790 that has 3 meter high ceilings. Almost complete - the loose steel rod that is levered down by the rear wheel to make contact with floor has gone (too many scratches on wood floors perhaps). The 4 bolt that attached the cast iron rear section need to be replaced as they are too thin to be the originals.

A few first thoughts:

Wouldn't gueing heavy duty rubber strips round the casters be more environmental friendly for wood floors. As I am going to have to make the locking rod, I could have a rubber block at the end of that too. Better braking as well.

When the 5x7 is removed from the sliding back, a standard 4 hole setup for the 4 pins is revealed. This means I can attach my existing 8x10 and a revolving 4x5 back immediately.

Were there any other identifying marks other than on the long lost original lens board?

Here are the photos of the Grundner shutter in action. It makes a gentle ploop sound as it opens and closes.

BarryS
31-Mar-2010, 06:03
Congratulations Steven! It sounds like the bellows is new--I've never seen a gray one and an original bellows wouldn't look new. That shutter is wild--haven't seen one of those before. You can replace the casters with some soft rubber ones--I know Eddie found a good supplier somewhere. The idea of a rubber block on the brake is good, although I never bother using the brake--it usually stays put when you get it in position. By identifying marks--do you mean a name plate? It's usually on the bottom of the front frame. The sliding carriage will also sometimes have a small plaque. The camera also has a serial number on the rear track.

Bob-- The Cooke lens has a soft focus control. It works just as you described by dialing in the amount of softness. You can put the 300mm on a board that fits your camera (10"?). It may have been recessed so it could be focused farther on a studio camera. On my Century 8A, it's difficult using anything 300mm or shorter if you don't want to focus fairly close. The long bellows, center frame, and sliding carriage+reduction backs, puts a lot of distance between the lens and the film plane.

Steven Tribe
31-Mar-2010, 06:40
This no sign of any numbers/identification. Here are more photos of the shutter from inside. The metal thingy at the bottom right is a synch. device which is depressed by the round bellows shutter as it opens (to be replaced by a more sensible device considering the age). Both are pictures/figures taken from inside the camera.

cowanw
31-Mar-2010, 09:18
Just to clarify on BarryS's comments.
Bob, If you move the bellows to their minimum length and measure the lens to film plane, this will be the shortest length lens you can put on the camera for infinity focus.
This really in not your problem as you want to do close ups and you will stretch the bellows out in order to focus closer.
I expect the 300 mm is the one you want to use, as I don't get the impression you are looking for the soft pictorial effect for your massive enlargements.
The recessed lens board is used to put a shorter than usual lens on a camera, of a shorter bellows than yours. In your case it will make you less able to get close up. A flat board or a top hat board gets your lens farther from the film plane and therefor able to focus nearer to the subject.
The 15 inch soft focus lens is marketed for a 6.5 x 8.5 negative. At O on the soft focus it is said that it functions as a regular anastigmat: as the front and back lens groups are moved apart the spherical aberrations increase one to another and the image gets softer. Others may have an opinion to share but I think that O setting on the portrait lens may still be softer than a fixed anastigmat.
Of course, the 15 " (380mm) gets more desirable every time you post.
Lots of us (like me for example)will like to take it off your hands.
Regards
Bill

bob carnie
4-Apr-2010, 09:50
Ok Big Camera Guru's

Here is a question that may sound really silly.

I want to take some portraits with this cooke soft focus lens that my friend lent me and would like to have a faster shutter speed than holding the bulb for 1-2 seconds and hoping for sharp images.
Is there a way to retrofit a shutter to this camera that can fire off at lets say 125second, 1/60 second.?

Other than stapling their heads to the background to stop any movements .. suggestions?

cowanw
4-Apr-2010, 11:37
Well if 1-2 seconds is the correct exposure then you need more light first.
If you have a bulb then you have a shutter, if a packard maybe there is a pin hole for Instaneous shutter i.e. 1/15 sec.
If not then get a new packard
If not then you can start on the path of fitting a sinar shutter behind the lens. Search the forum and you will find several descriptions of how people are rigging these up.
The other approach is Mr Galli's two piece cardboard hand held shutter, vary the space between the two pieces and swipe. Again search and you will find the original description by Jim.
Finally use flash and a dark room and the shutter speed doesn't matter.
Or get a head brace.
Or machine a shutter for the front of the lens.
Regards
Bill